Entering the Home Stretch!

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I’m back in Kingston for a few weeks and it seems like a good time to reflect a little bit on this year’s itinerary.

I’ve visited a total of 18 countries so far this year, even though I resolved at the beginning of the year that I wouldn’t be engaging in “checklist” tourism.  The number of countries visited is, I think, an unavoidable consequence of catching up on my overflowing European bucket list.  While I had not intended to visit so often, I have already been to Europe five times since the beginning of March!

Hiking trail to Germany (near Vianden, Luxembourg)
Hiking trail to Germany (near Vianden, Luxembourg)

Looking back at some of my early posts, I see that I spent some time discussing Saskatchewan.  It remains the only province/territory in Canada that I have never visited.  However, I also vowed that any trip to Saskatchewan this year would need to have an “independent’ justification…and not be a destination simply because I hadn’t been there yet.  Time is running out for a visit but it is still a possibility that cannot be completely dismissed.

The Hotel Victor Hugo (my hotel in Vianden, Luxembourg)
The Hotel Victor Hugo (my hotel in Vianden, Luxembourg)

Other than a quick trip next week to one of my favourite Canadian cities, however, there are currently only two more trips in the works.    In the second week of October, thanks to my very positive experience in Peru, I will be joining another group tour.  I’m not going to give many clues about this one, other than to say that it involves a country I’ve never visited before and it is *not* a European trip.  I don’t anticipate saying much more about this trip until approximately October 11, when I quickly post on Facebook that I have arrived in that country’s capital city!

Evening on the Grote Markt (Delft. the Netherlands)
Evening on the Grote Markt (Delft. the Netherlands)

My final planned trip of the year will be in late November.  While I’m undertaking it on my own, it will have some parallels with my recent hockey tour because there will be a strong “experiential” element to it.  I don’t think the itinerary will surprise anybody who knows me well; perhaps the biggest surprise will be that I haven’t been on such a trip before!

The historic heart of The Hague, the Netherlands
The historic heart of The Hague, the Netherlands

There is at least one destination on my initial plan that I definitely won’t be visiting this year.  I had intended to visit Ukraine but it has remained unstable throughout the year and unfortunately I don’t think it would be prudent to push ahead with a visit there.

Downtown Maassluis (the Netherlands)
Downtown Maassluis, the Netherlands

The Ukraine situation wasn’t the only one to affect my planning.  Earlier this year, I had also been concerned about the situation in Bosnia & Herzegovina.  Not because of the events of the 1990s, but because of a series of anti-corruption demonstrations that seemed to be getting a little out of control and were threatening to turn into something quite violent.  I had bought my ticket prior to the demonstrations so I did a lot of research before departure in order to satisfy myself that there was no heightened risk to me as a tourist.  From understanding the history of a country to being aware of current safety threats, it takes a lot of reading to be an informed and effective traveler!

Today’s blog photos are all from the first half of my August trip.  Stay tuned for an account of my upcoming Canadian city escape!

Perceptions of Canada

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

On most of my trips to Europe, I try to disappear into the crowd and am probably not easily identifiable as coming from Canada (or perhaps anywhere in particular).  Generally, the only people who know I’m Canadian are hotel proprietors…for whom Canadians are not too much of a novelty.  As a result, I don’t hear too much about Canada from the perspective of Europeans outside the tourist industry.

My hockey tour of Eastern Europe* was different.  Not only was I travelling with a lot of other Canadians, we were unequivocally members of “Team Canada” and made no attempt to hide it.  The fact that we were Canadian hockey players was, in fact, a big part of this tour.

Looking intense against our very strong Czech opponents in Prague
Looking intense against our very strong Czech opponents in Prague

As Canadians, we tend to fret about our performance at international hockey events.  We greatly enjoyed our Olympic successes at both Vancouver and Sochi but have also had a number of recent disappointments.  If this tour was any indication, however, other hockey nations still have an immense amount of respect for Canadian hockey.  Some of them found it hard to believe that not all Canadian hockey players were world-class!  As I mentioned in my “Hockey Night in Budapest” post, the minor hockey program in Budapest was even named after Canada and had a maple leaf logo. The local kids watching our game gave us high-fives as we left the ice.

On the shore of the Danube in Budapest, Hungary
On the shore of the Danube in Budapest, Hungary

While the hockey perceptions were not completely unexpected, the non-hockey perceptions of Canada came as more of a surprise.  After all, these countries were on the other side of the Cold War (at the political leadership level, at least).

We constantly heard positive references to our country from the people we met.  But there were also reminders that this part of the world has had a long-standing respect for Canada.  In the otherwise miserable environment of Auschwitz, we learned that the concentration camp area used to sort the belongings of prisoners had been named “Canada”.  This was because Canada was seen, even then, as a land of wealth and prosperity.

View of the Buda Castle (Budapest, Hungary)
View of the Buda Castle (Budapest, Hungary)

At the Wawel castle in Krakow, we saw a commemorative plaque with respect to the castle treasures.  The plaque acknowledged Canada’s storage of the treasures during the Second World War:  this saved them from being looted by the Nazis during the occupation.  The plaque also acknowledged that Canada returned the treasures to the castle too!

Many people originally from this part of Europe escaped oppressive totalitarian regimes for a new life in Canada.  These ranged from the famous (the hockey-playing Stastny brothers, for example) to the not-so-famous…but Canada’s acceptance of them has never been forgotten by the immigrants or their family members who stayed behind.

Off the tourist trail in Budapest, Hungary
Off the tourist trail in Budapest, Hungary

This ties in with one of the most obvious benefits of travel:  no matter how wonderful your trip is, you also appreciate what a good life you have back home.  Of course, there are aspects of life in Canada that can be frustrating at times and there are certainly things we could learn from other countries.  On the balance, however, Canada is a pretty good place to call home…and the rest of the world recognizes it too.

At the top of the Buda Castle complex (Budapest, Hungary)
At the top of the Buda Castle complex (Budapest, Hungary)

*-I learned on this trip that Czechs, Slovaks, Poles and Hungarians often think of themselves as Central Europeans rather than Eastern Europeans.

Sightseeing in Bratislava and Budapest

(Budapest, Hungary)

Our visit to Bratislava was extremely short. We arrived on the afternoon of September 10, had a pre-game meal, played the game (see my post on “A Great Game in Bratislava” for details), and celebrated the victory afterwards. We only had a couple of hours on the morning of September 11 to explore the city before heading to Budapest.

It was necessary to take a cab from our hotel to the old town. It was strange to ask the cab driver to take us downtown…but not to any particular place. We didn’t really know where to start and we certainly hadn’t done any research. This went totally against my usual “informed travel” approach but the clock was ticking and we wanted to see part of the city before moving on. We were eventually let off at the edge of a pedestrian-only district that seemed close enough to the old town.

A rainy morning in downtown Bratislava
A rainy morning in downtown Bratislava

The plan was simple: walk around the oldest parts and make sure we found a cab back by 11:00 a.m. The old town of Bratislava is relatively compact (especially if you are not entirely sure where it is) so after about 20 minutes we decided to climb a large hill and visit the castle overlooking the city. Climbing up was no problem and we were able to wander around the castle complex for a while.

Part of Bratislava Castle
Part of Bratislava Castle

We decided to descend the castle hill on the other side.  Surely there would be a second way down?  Alas, we encountered one dead-end after another and the timing situation was becoming more urgent.  Finally, we managed to find our way out…but were amazed at how few taxis were roaming Bratislava on this increasingly rainy morning.  Just as the situation became critical (and drenched), we found a taxi stand and rushed back to our hotel.  Yes, this probably could have been avoided with a little research, or even a map.  Intuition is great…when it works.

Changing of the Guard - Budapest, Hungary
Changing of the Guard in front of the Presidential Palace – Buda Castle (Budapest, Hungary)

We had more time in Budapest.  Our hockey game (see “Hockey Night in Budapest” post) took place shortly after arrival on the 11th but we had all of September 12 to ourselves.  I made sure I had a map before setting out; even though I had been here for 3 days in 1991, I was taking no chances.  I also was expecting a lot of changes, as 1991 was still very early in Hungary’s evolution from a one-party system.  I can still recall seeing eastbound trains loaded with Soviet tanks:  it was the winding-up of an empire.

Budapest, Hungary
Parliament Building in Budapest, Hungary

The main tourist areas had certainly been developed in the intervening 23 years:  it was as if a thick layer of dust had been blown off the downtown area.  The views along the Danube (see photo at top of this post) were also as spectacular as ever; it was not hard to see that Budapest flourished during the glory years of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  But when I wandered into the less-touristed areas, it looked like the city was still recovering from those 40 years of post-war stagnation.

Fun in downtown Budapest
Fun in downtown Budapest

Our group reconvened that evening for a final dinner.  Our Hungarian hockey hosts recommended a French-influenced restaurant some distance west of downtown.  I think the best description would be “rustic elegance”:  it reminded me of the upscale cellar restaurants you often find in the German-speaking countries.  Although rather expensive, I couldn’t find fault with the food or the very professional service.  Even so, it would be difficult to eat like this on a regular basis.

My main course at dinner:  goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny
My main course at dinner: goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny

When we returned to the hotel, the adrenaline had finally subsided and I was completely drained.  This didn’t really come as a surprise: in barely a week, we had played 10 games in 4 countries and also managed to incorporate a lot of sightseeing.  It had been an awesome trip with many special experiences…but I was also ready to return home and slow things down a little bit.

Coming up:  some more photos of Budapest and some thoughts on Canada’s image abroad.

Hockey Night in Budapest

(Budapest, Hungary)

While interest in hockey is surging in Hungary, it has not historically been a hockey power.  There are still only a couple of thousand registered players and, since 1939, it has been in the top group at the world championships only once.  As a result, we had the rare opportunity to experience “grass roots” hockey in Budapest.

Ice is at a premium here, as demand exceeds supply.  The only venue available was a relatively temporary facility – the ice was hard and fast but there were no facilities in the arena itself (see photo at top of this post).  The dressing rooms were located in a nearby building that appeared to be built in support of the surrounding track, tennis and soccer facilities.  To get to the arena, we had to walk down a sidewalk and over a bridge.  The route was padded so it was really no problem.

Happy to be playing hockey in Hungary!
Happy to be playing hockey in Hungary!

Once again, the welcome was warm.  All sorts of beverages were laid out for us in the dressing room and you could tell that the Hungarians were thrilled to have us there.   The arena was even named after Canada and the minor hockey program featured “Canada – Hungary” uniforms.

Our opponents (Szigeti Bikák Old Boys) wore Hungarian national team jerseys and warmed up with intensity.  Their top defenceman (#4) looked like he had played hockey at a very high level in the past.  As in Bratislava, the national anthems were played before the game began.  It was a bittersweet moment, as it was great to wear the Team Canada uniform and hear the national anthem one more time…but we also knew that this was the last game on our hockey tour.

Preparing for a key faceoff outside the Hungarian blue line.
Preparing for a key faceoff outside the Hungarian blue line.

Alas, any sentimental thoughts were quickly forgotten once the puck was dropped.  Hungary clearly wanted to put up a strong performance and they were playing with much more determination than the last couple of teams we faced.  Just because the arena was named after Canada didn’t mean that Hungary wanted us to win!  As facilities are limited, I also suspect that anybody who plays hockey in Hungary must necessarily be very serious about it.

The goals went back and forth all night.  While Team Canada had a full line-up for this final game, almost everybody was nursing an injury of some sort.  As a result, when Hungary took a 5-4 lead into the final minutes of the game, it looked like our flawless post-Czech Republic record was in jeopardy.

Oh no!  Time to backcheck!
Oh no! Time to backcheck!

Of course, Canadians don’t like to quit either and we were determined to get the tying goal.  And so, with only 50 seconds left, we gained control of the puck in the Hungarian end.  The puck was passed to one of our injured defencemen who, due to injury, had been having trouble putting any weight on one of his skates.  While it must have been very painful for him, he took a quick snapshot from the point and found the top corner of the Hungarian net.  Goal!

The final seconds of regulation time failed to produce a winner.  It was decided that the tie would be broken by penalty shots.  This sounded good for our injured players, but there was another problem.  Our goalie, having been such a pillar of strength throughout the tour, was suffering from a groin injury and found it hard to move from side to side (or even to stand up, once he was down on the ice).  You could see him struggle to lift himself up after every save.

The play is whistled down after the Hungarian goalkeeper caught my shot from the left wing
The play is whistled down after the Hungarian goalkeeper caught my shot from the left wing

After the initial three shooters for each team, the score was still tied.  However, our fourth shooter scored and the Hungarians now had to score or lose the game.  The Hungarian shooter tried to deke our goalie but failed to lift the puck above our goalkeeper’s outstretched leg.  Victory for Canada!

There was nothing left in the tank.  The hockey portion of our tour was amazing but I don’t think we could have played another game.  I think we were all glad that no hockey had been scheduled for our final full day in Budapest.

Both teams met afterwards at a nearby restaurant for an all-you-can-eat buffet.  As it was now past 10:00 p.m. and I hadn’t eaten since the early afternoon, I was quite happy to “eat all I could”.  There were some speeches and it was clear that each team had a great amount of respect for the other.  Like every other country on  this tour, Hungary showed that Canada occupies a special place in the hockey world.  Hockey can be a fast and tough game but it is still possible to play with respect and dignity.  There is definitely something to be said for hockey diplomacy!

A Great Game in Bratislava (and a little bit about Krakow)

(Bratislava, Slovakia)

The massive hilltop Wawel Castle in Krakow is a common destination for tourists in Poland. It was originally built in the 14th century and was repeatedly expanded over the years as it hosted a long succession of Polish rulers.  Because of our extremely tight schedule, it was not possible to visit the entire complex or even all parts of the buildings that we did visit.  However, we did at least get a flavour of Polish history and the vast area covered by Poland and Lithuania in the past.

Part of the Wawel Castle complex (Krakow, Poland)
Part of the Wawel Castle complex (Krakow, Poland)

Time constraints also forced us to eat on the run…but, in this case, we happily stumbled upon a take-out restaurant that served up the kind of Polish specialties that I had been hoping to find.  The sausage looked tempting but I opted for bigos (a tasty cabbage-based hunter’s stew with all kinds of interesting ingredients) instead.

Bigos in Krakow, Poland
Bigos in Krakow, Poland

From Poland, we moved on to Bratislava, Slovakia.  I think the hockey game in Bratislava was probably my favourite of the tour, with the Budapest game (details in a future post) being an extremely close second.  Some of our players had played the Slovak team last year at a tournament in Germany but were soundly defeated and it was apparently quite discouraging.  This year’s game was only a friendly match but some of our players were very motivated to improve on the outcome from last year.

Even without that backdrop, however, this game was still something special.  We were playing at Bratislava’s impressive Zimný štadión Ondreja Nepelu, also known as the Slovnaft Arena (see photo at top of this posting).  It was completely rebuilt for the 2011 IIHF World Championships and accommodates more than 10,000 spectators.   It is state-of-the-art in every respect and is the home arena of HK Slovan Bratislava, who play in the KHL (the second best hockey league in the world).

Our hotel in Tychy, Poland
Our hotel in Tychy, Poland

We arrived at the player entrance and were astonished by the spacious and extensively equipped dressing rooms.  Our hosts also provided us with plenty of beverages and souvenirs.  On the Olympic-sized ice, the game was preceded by the Canadian and Slovakian national anthems.  It was really special to hear “O Canada” while wearing a Team Canada jersey – even though this technically wasn’t a national team, we did have players from B.C. to Newfoundland on our roster.  I now have some idea what it must feel like to appear for Canada at the Olympics or World Championships.   With music blaring between whistles and a high-tech LED scoreboard, we really felt like we were in “the big time”.

While it is hard to pinpoint the exact reason, I think I played my best game of the tour in Bratislava.  The wide-open ice, the “spectacle”, the emotion of this long-awaited rematch…everything seemed to feel right.  Time seemed to slow down just a little bit and I felt like I was in total control of my game.  Maybe, in some parallel universe, this was where I was meant to play hockey?

Nearing the top of Wawel Hill and the entrance to Wawel Castle (Krakow, Poland)
Nearing the top of Wawel Hill and the entrance to Wawel Castle (Krakow, Poland)

There were also some interesting Slovak touches to the game:  everybody who scored was immediately and ceremoniously rewarded with a shot of a blueberry beverage of unknown local origin.    As the game went on, the “rewards” were expanded to players who earned assists or just looked like they might need a “reward”.  Another great thing about the game is that I don’t recall any cheapshots or animosity between the teams.  Everybody did their best but it wasn’t at the expense of anybody else.

As for the result:  Bratislava looked formidable in the warm-up and two players in particular (#66 and #69) were clearly very strong.  We scored a couple of early goals but Bratislava roared back and the situation began to look dire as several of our players succumbed to (accidental) injuries.  It seemed like just a matter of time before Bratislava’s star players would “turn it up a notch” and ensure victory for the Slovak team.  We rose to the challenge, however, and eventually prevailed by an 8-5 margin.   More so than in any previous game, we seemed to really click as a team.  It also didn’t hurt that our goalkeeper continued his run of stellar games!

The bus that took us around Eastern Europe
The bus that took us around Eastern Europe

After the game, we didn’t feel like leaving the ice.  We wanted the moment to last just a little bit longer!  As the arena staff wasn’t too pushy about us leaving the ice, we took lots of team pictures to commemorate the game.  I hope to be able to share some of these in a future post.

While this was a great night, there is still much more to come.  Future posts will include a little bit about Bratislava itself…and the exciting end of the tour in Budapest, Hungary!

Auschwitz: Unimaginable Evil

(Tychy, Poland)

On September 9, we went to the Auschwitz concentration camps from World War II.  Auschwitz is the German name for the Polish town of Oświęcim; the town still exists a short distance from the camps.  We visited the two main sites:  Auschwitz I and the much larger Auschwitz II (Birkenau). There was also a smaller Auschwitz III and some satellite camps nearby.

This was a very difficult experience.  At first it looks almost pastoral and the barbed wire isn’t even that conspicuous.  But once the story starts rolling, you quickly get a very sick feeling in your stomach.  The feeling doesn’t let up either:  as bad as Auschwitz I was, Auschwitz II-Birkenau took the horror to an even higher level.

Watchtower and electric fence at Auschwitz I.
Watchtower and barbed-wire electric fence at Auschwitz I.

The Nazis cleared out all local residents in an area of 40 square kilometers around the camps.  This made it possible to carry on atrocities without local knowledge.  There was all kinds of misinformation:  the sign above the entrance to Auschwitz I says Arbeit macht frei, which can be translated as “work will set you free”.  This was only the beginning of the massive deception.

It is impossible to capture the overwhelming evil in a single blog posting and I am concerned that this brief narrative will not paint a complete picture.  However, I still think it is important to describe some of what I saw.

Execution wall at Auschwitz I.  About 5,000 people were executed here.
Execution wall at Auschwitz I. About 5,000 people were executed here.

80% of people who arrived at Auschwitz (primarily Jews, but also including other groups who were unacceptable to the Nazis) by train were immediately sent to “showers”…which turned out to gas chambers that would kill them within minutes of entering.  They had no idea what was coming:  people brought their most valuable possessions to the camp and expected to be getting a job the next day.  The remainder were put to hard labour without sufficient food and most died a horrible death through starvation, disease, medical experiments or execution.

It is estimated that 1.1 million people were killed at Auschwitz.  The actual number is impossible to confirm because so many were killed upon arrival.  During mid-1944, at Auschwitz alone, the Nazis were killing in excess of 5,000 people every single day.  The sites were designed for utmost efficiency:  the gas chambers were right beside the crematoria.

Our group enters the gas chambers/crematorium.  Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.
Our group enters a gas chamber/crematorium. Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.

We actually walked through the gas chambers and crematorium at Auschwitz I where thousands and thousands of people were murdered.   It is very difficult to put into words what it felt like to be in that place.  If you can imagine the most haunted building and the most sickening feeling you can remember, and then wonder what could possibly have motivated people to be so evil and commit such heinous acts of mass murder…that combination would begin to describe what we all felt.

Auschwitz was not the only concentration camp.  When you include the other Nazi camps, the numbers (it is estimated that 6 million Jews were murdered by the Nazis) are even more incomprehensible.  It was a continent-wide assembly line of death.

A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I
A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I

We walked by some “inventories”:   huge displays of property confiscated from the camp residents that had not yet been put to use by the Nazis by 1945.  The sheer volume was astonishing but the worst was the hair:  the Nazis sheared the residents and used all of the hair to make garments and other “knits”.  We saw a display case that was about 40 metres long, several metres high and several metres deep…still filled with human hair that had not yet been converted to another use before the camp was finally liberated.

The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)
The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)

We also saw the main “receiving centre” at Birkenau (see photo at the top of this posting).  Here, new arrivals by train would be assessed in a split second by a Nazi doctor.  If he pointed left (which happened almost all of the time, especially if you were a child, female, elderly, or disabled), you would be dead that day.  If he pointed right, you were deemed fit for labour…but you would almost certainly die within weeks or months.  Death could come from starvation, execution, gassing, disease, or even the rats who infested the lower bunks.

Miserable housing at Birkenau.  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.
Miserable housing at Birkenau:  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.

There is so much more that could be said.  So much humiliation and inhumanity…and that was for those who survived the initial culling.  In addition, the survivors would smell the furnaces from the crematoria that were burning each and every day.  I won’t discuss the medical experiments that were performed on the camp residents.  I think the only thing that saved me from being physically ill was the fact that we did not see the video that most people watch upon arrival at Auschwitz.  It contains footage taken by the Red Army when Auschwitz was liberated in early 1945.  I have seen snippets of this footage in the past and the condition of the surviving prisoners is extremely disturbing.

Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II - Birkenau)
Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II – Birkenau)

If you have the opportunity to visit a concentration camp like Auschwitz, you should give it serious consideration even though it is by no means “enjoyable”.  It will have a profound effect on you and it will be impossible to view the world in quite the same way afterwards.

Hockey in Poland (and a bit more of Prague)

(Tychy, Poland)

After our very challenging first 3 games in Prague, we were able to take it easy on Sunday. The only organized activity was a dinner cruise on the Vltava River.

A bunch of us decided to visit the Museum of Communism, for a look at what life was like from 1948 to 1989 in the Czech Republic.  The three largest exhibit rooms were entitled “Dream”, “Reality” and “Nightmare”; the situation moved quite rapidly from “dream” to “nightmare”.  There was even an interrogation room where confessions would be obtained under extreme duress.

The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic
The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic

It was sobering to see how quickly Czech life became unbearably oppressive during those years.  We saw a grocery store stocked with only a couple of (not very desirable) products, the bribery necessary to get anything done,  and the sheer number of collaborators and informants who enabled the totalitarian nightmare to continue.  We also saw a movie showing the police brutality that took place just outside the front door of our hotel.   All of this reminded us of how fortunate we are in Canada.

Another view of the old town square in Prague
Another view of the old town square in Prague

The river cruise was quite mellow.  There was no commentary, just a buffet and a slow journey up and down the river.  As I found during our canal cruise in Haarlem, it’s nice to see a city from a different perspective. Given the crowds in Prague, it’s also great to have a bit more personal space while admiring the city.

View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)
View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)

Monday morning saw us driving to Opole, Poland for a series of games.  We had just over 2 hours of ice time, so we alternated playing against teams from Tychy and Wroclaw.  Playing 4 straight games against teams that could rest between games turned out to be quite demanding, especially as the ice was not resurfaced during that time.  However, I’m pleased to report that Canada’s hockey honour was restored with 4 straight victories over our well-rested opponents.

Our first stop in Poland:  a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border
Our first stop in Poland: a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border

We received a very warm welcome in Opole; they seemed genuinely thrilled that we had made the journey.  Gifts were exchanged and there were many Polish beverages available before and after the game.  The Canadian spectators reported that the Polish fans were also gracious and friendly.

Our bus driver got lost on the way to our hotel in Tychy after the game, so a one-hour journey turned into a three-hour odyssey through the misty Polish night.  We finally arrived (after eating “dinner” at a 24-hour gas station) just before 1:00 a.m.  No harm was done, though, and I think everybody fell asleep quickly after arrival.  Fortunately, our hotel is right beside the arena where we play(ed) on Tuesday night!

Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 "Velvet Revolution") in Prague, Czech Republic
Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 “Velvet Revolution”) in Prague, Czech Republic

On Tuesday, we visited the famous city of Krakow as well as the infamous concentration camp at Auschwitz. I will be describing those visits in a separate posting.  We also played the Tychy team (in their home arena) Tuesday night and were once again victorious.  We really enjoyed the evening, as a couple of Polish and Canadian players switched teams and we had a fun night of pizza and refreshments after the game at our hotel.  Tomorrow, we once again move on!

Prague and our first hockey games

(Prague, Czech Republic)

The last time I was in Prague was in 1999. I had recently finished my law studies and I was living on a real budget. I was travelling with a friend from Toronto and we found our accommodation as we stepped off the train in Prague’s central train station. We went with a “gut feeling” that the guy who approached us was trustworthy and that our $15/night room (or was it $10?) northeast of downtown would be safe.

Prague's famous Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)
Prague’s famous Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)

Needless to say, it is a little different this time around.  The tour organizer has taken care of everything.  We are staying at a well known international chain hotel right in the middle of downtown on the famous Wenceslas Square. Our own bus is taking us to our hockey games and will also be shuttling us around 4 different countries.

Prague is a beautiful city and it receives a lot of tourists!
Prague is a beautiful city and it receives a lot of tourists!

As for the hockey…the first game was a real eye-opener.  Our opponents were led on the ice by Milan Novy: the Czech national team player who was apparently described by Bobby Orr in 1976 as the best player in the world at the time (after leading Czechoslovakia to a win over Canada in the first round of the Canada Cup).  Novy was also one of the few Czech players to play in the NHL before the fall of the iron curtain.

Zimní stadion in Prague:  we played all of our Czech games here
Zimní stadion in Prague: we played all of our Czech games here

While Novy is now in his 60s, his teammates were various Czech ex-professionals from the much more recent past.  Our team, meanwhile, had arrived from Canada that same day and were both sleep-deprived and jet-lagged.  Our goalkeeper played a heroic game to keep the score down and we managed to score 3 goals against this Czech all-star team.  We were told that this was probably the strongest team we would face…but that our next Czech opponents were younger and “almost as good”!

The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!
The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!

That assessment was correct.  Our two opponents on the second day also had former professionals, although not as many as on the first team we played.  As for the outcomes:  let’s just say that our results “improved”!  None of our opponents could be classified as weak in any way…and they were all extremely motivated to win because this was actually considered a tournament (we had thought that they were all exhibition games).  The last game was especially close but some very “flexible” rules proved to be our downfall.  I won’t go into the details but the bottom line is that any penalty results in an automatic penalty shot.

Once again - the puck must be close!
Once again – the puck must be close!

All three of our games in Prague were at the Zimní stadion.  It clearly goes back to the days of communism and, surprisingly, has North American dimensions rather than the wider international ice surface.  However, the blue lines are very close together:  this means that there is a lot of room in the attacking zone and our opponents really took advantage of that.

While the on-ice results haven’t completely been what we hoped for, we still had a lot of fun playing the familiar yet different European game.  After 3 games in less than 24 hours, though, there won’t be any hockey tomorrow.  We can be tourists for a day!

Hockey Tour of Eastern Europe!

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

I will soon be flying to Prague  in order to commence the trip of a lifetime: a hockey tour of Eastern Europe!  We will have a game every day (more or less) for the time that we are there.  There are also some special events and there will even be time for a little sightseeing along the way.

I visited Prague in 1999 and was able to watch a professional hockey game between Prague archrivals Sparta and Slavia.  However, I have not played hockey in any European country other than Switzerland and now I’ll have the chance to play in four different countries (including a couple that don’t have a very high hockey profile yet).

This trip was not part of my initial 2014 travel plan.  I was talking to one of my hockey friends a couple of months ago and he mentioned that he was going on this tour.  It sounded great and I told him that I could be a last-minute replacement if anybody had to bail out.  Within days, that’s exactly what happened!

Not only will this be an incredible experience for my team, but it will also be memorable for our opposition.   Canada still enjoys an almost mythical reputation as the birthplace of ice hockey and home of the greatest players and (national) teams.  Of course, it also means that our opponents will be thrilled with any success that they have against us.

As you can imagine, there will probably be little time for blogging or photography on this trip…but I promise to do what I can and then catch up when I get back to Canada.

Game on!

You can take the boy out of Holland, but…

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

…you can’t take Holland out of the boy.  It’s a cliché that could apply to any place, but I found it to be true over the past couple of weeks.

I’ve had a pretty good success rate with my travel year so far.  I’ve enjoyed practically every place I’ve visited and the inevitable setbacks (cancelled flight to Memphis, missing baggage in Paris, etc.) have been overcome without too much difficulty.  However, I think the just-completed trip to the Netherlands will become one of those “legacy” trips that enjoys a special place in my heart.

Getting caught by the waves at the same beach where my father played as a child ('s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands)
Getting caught by the waves at the same beach where my father played as a child (‘s-Gravenzande, the Netherlands)

We saw some very interesting things on this trip, but I think the best part was reconnecting with my Dutch relatives.  Without exception, my cousins were all thrilled to see us and it made everything more vivid and meaningful.  It was cool to see my family name on a church from the early 1600s, but even cooler to be shown it by a cousin who still attends that very church.  It was great to see a professional soccer game in Holland, but even greater to be taken there (and to an exciting pre-game meal!) by a cousin who belongs to the home team’s fan club.  And it was wonderful to see the very distinct northern extremities of the Netherlands, but even more wonderful to be shown around  by a cousin who lives there and could explain the places that are connected to my family.

Keystone rplaced by (and naming) my ancestor Isaac van der Hout (Maassluis, the Netherlands)
Keystone placed by (and naming) my ancestor Isaack Adriaensz van der Hout (born in 1580) – at the “Grote Kerk” in Maassluis, the Netherlands

All of which is a long way of saying that great travel experiences are not just about the places you visit…but about the people who are there.  I’ve had similar experiences with my Swiss relatives (eating at a mountain restaurant whose owner/chef was my mother’s cousin, and skiing with my uncle in my “ancestral valley” in the Berner Oberland, to name just two) and the memories last much longer than places you’ve passed through without any real personal connection.

Synchronicity! Klein Zwitserland ("little Switzerland") at the dunes on Schiermonnikoog, the Netherlands
Synchronicity! Klein Zwitserland (“little Switzerland”) at the dunes on Schiermonnikoog, the Netherlands

What does this mean for future travel?   It may not affect the remainder of this year’s journey, but it will certainly have a future impact.  As I told each of my Dutch cousins, it won’t be another 23 years before I visit again.

The backstreets of Amsterdam
The not-so-busy back streets of Amsterdam

And now, as promised, here is some information about my next trip.  While I have only just returned to Canada, I will be flying out again on September 4 on a very special journey.  I have been trying to have more time at home between trips but I could not control the timing of this one.   As time is of the essence, I’m going to give all of the clues at once:

1.  The theme is sports…and as a participant, not as an observer.

2.  The sports element is not just incidental; I will be participating in this sport virtually every day that I am away.

3.  I will be visiting a total of 4 countries (2 of which I have never visited before), with an airport stopover in a relatively familiar 5th country.

4.  Notwithstanding the location of this trip, it will have a very Canadian flavour.

5.  Perhaps because of clue no. 4, the “hosts” may be thrilled if some days are unsuccessful.

More deer in Haren, the Netherlands
More deer in Haren, the Netherlands

My itinerary on this special trip will be very busy, so I’m not sure if I will be able to blog in “real time”.  I’ll be back for 4 weeks afterwards, though, so the back-up plan is to get the posts up then.  At a minimum, I hope to get some status updates up on Facebook.  I’m sure it’s going to be great!