Looking Ahead

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Things have been quite busy since returning from our road trip to Southwestern Ontario.  We managed to get out for a day trip to Perth but otherwise have been staying close to home.

The end of the summer travel season is a time to pause and consider what adventures lie ahead.  Music certainly seems to be at the forefront, with 5 major concerts between now and April. This October, I’ll be traveling out of town to attend one of those “bucket list” concerts that I honestly thought I’d never get to see. Stay tuned for my report on that!

Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium
Very cute Shepherd puppy from Belgium

I have already set aside some time in early 2016 for skiing. The dates have been chosen but the destination is still very much a work in progress. One thing is certain: given the “candidates” that are in the running, it will be a spectacular setting.

As for the shorter term, the plans are for more local travel…and hopefully to burn through some more of the frequent flyer points and other rewards that I accumulated during my big year of travel. Some of those points will expire soon and I will need to do something with them.  I’ve often entertained the notion of going on a low-cost last-minute trip and, if my schedule allows it,  I might be able to do that this fall.

Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials
Exotic bird at the Sheep Dog Trials

Unfortunately, it is becoming more and more difficult to take advantage of most frequent flyer programs.  With blackout periods, “service” fees, and nasty itineraries involving 18-hour layovers between one-hour flights, some of these “rewards” seem illusory.   I prefer to use my points on travel but may well be forced to cash them in for gift cards if I can’t make the logistics work for me.

Zebras are apparently black with white stripes...not white with black stripes
Zebras are apparently black with white stripes…not white with black stripes

Regardless of whether I can squeeze in some last-minute trips, I will still be posting on this blog.  However, the posts will likely not be as frequent for the next few months.

The pictures from today’s blog are from the Kingston Sheep Dog Trials.  This annual event was held earlier this month just east of the city at Grass Creek Park.  I had never attended before and will admit to some skepticism about the event.  However, it was actually fascinating to see the border collies herding the reluctant sheep.  It is amazing what these dogs can do.

Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston Police Canine Unit demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

As our family once had a majestic (and bilingual) German Shepherd, I was also very interested in seeing the police dog demonstration put on by the Kingston Police at the Sheep Dog Trials.  The police dogs are actually German Shepherd/Belgian Malinois crosses but the characteristic intelligence and determination of the German Shepherd was very much in evidence.

Kingston police dog attacks the "bad guy" during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials
Kingston police dog attacks the “bad guy” during a demonstration at the Sheep Dog Trials

Other dog events included an agility competition and “dock diving”.   There were many dog lovers at this event and it was also fun just to look at the other dogs in attendance.  We were briefly tempted to import a Shepherd from Belgium after seeing the puppy pictured above!

I’ll be back soon with more travel writing and photos!

The Long Road Home

(Barrie/Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As much as we enjoyed Goderich, real life beckoned and we still had to find our way back to Kingston. Fortunately, the route was very open to negotiation: the only condition was that we had to stop in Barrie for a couple of nights. I was playing in a hockey tournament there; somehow, my travels had never taken me to this rapidly growing city on Lake Simcoe.

There is no obvious route for travel between Goderich and Barrie. We ultimately decided to focus on Highway 9: this would take us through a lot of unfamiliar towns, would avoid suburban sprawl, would enable a reasonable pace of travel on well-paved roads, and appeared to involve virtually no backtracking.

One of the many interesting stores in Hanover, Ontario
One of the many interesting stores in Hanover, Ontario

After quickly passing through the village of Lucknow in the pouring rain, the first town we looked at in any detail was Walkerton. It seemed like a nice-enough place; unfortunately, the first thing we thought about was the tainted water scandal that took place there more than 15 years ago.  It was a real tragedy:  7 people died and thousands were sickened in this town of just under 5,000 people.

The weather was starting to lighten up but we decided to press on to the somewhat larger town (7,500 residents) of Hanover.  Something about the place invited us to get out of the car and walk around.  Given the German origins of the town name, I wasn’t too surprised to see a bakery named Schultz.  I was more surprised to also see an extremely well-stocked Dutch deli and grocery store!

The Dutch Deli in Hanover, Ontario
The Dutch Deli in Hanover, Ontario

This store had it all:  Dutch clothing, books, magazines, deli products, and those very specific Dutch groceries that are commonplace in the Netherlands but haven’t quite made it into the Canadian mainstream.  I stocked up on proper atjar tjampoersambal manis and licorice dropjes, which are all becoming harder to find in the Kingston area.  I also picked up a very orange Dutch soccer hat and a self-explanatory book called “Stuff Dutch People Like”.   The customers in front of us even spoke Dutch with the cashier.

While walking down the main street, a man in one of the shop windows waved at us.  He was wearing headphones…it turns out he was broadcasting at Hanover’s radio station!  For all we know, he was about to tell his listeners about some new strangers in town.  We still have a soft spot in our hearts for local radio; we just didn’t expect to see it in Hanover.

On the attack at the Barrie Molson Centre

Perhaps Hanover wasn’t all that different from the other similarly-sized towns we saw on this trip…but chance happenings like the Dutch store and the DJ made it a little more special for us.   While we were in no danger of starving, we also stocked up at the Schultz bakery – you never know when you might need a chocolate cream horn.

Overlooking Lake Simcoe's Kempenfelt Bay in Barrie, Ontario
Overlooking Lake Simcoe’s Kempenfelt Bay in Barrie, Ontario

We continued eastward, passing through places like Durham, Flesherton and Stayner until we finally hit Barrie in the mid-afternoon.  After some quick vinyl-record shopping, we switched gears and went into hockey tournament mode for the couple of days. I enjoyed the intense hockey experience (playing 5 games in 44 hours!) but can’t say that I really got a feel for life in Barrie.

Colonel McGrady's Pub & Grill in Uxbridge, Ontario
Colonel McGrady’s Pub & Grill in Uxbridge, Ontario

After my last game, we reluctantly piled into the car for the home stretch.  More small towns I’ve never visited before:  Bradford, Sharon, Mount Albert…and, finally, lunch in Uxbridge.  We ate at Colonel McGrady’s Pub; I don’t know how “authentic” the sandwich was, but it was the best Philly Steak sandwich that I have ever had.  Lots of grilled peppers but also a barbecue-influenced sauce…it was almost like a upgraded pulled pork sandwich…with steak.

Eating out for a week can start to become tiresome but it’s always great to end a trip on such a high note.  It also compensated for the searing mid-afternoon heat that we felt in villages such as Bethany (see photo at the top of this post).  If we ever find ourselves in those parts of Ontario again, we’ll be sure to stop in Uxbridge  and Hanover to revisit the highlights of the long road home.

Surprising Facts about Goderich

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

Many towns have a central square, but Goderich has an octagon! Each of the vertices has a street running out from it, so that it looks somewhat like a Union Jack when viewed from above…and this is apparently what the town planner had in mind. The edges of the octagon form a two lane (one-way, counterclockwise) street that contains most of the downtown’s shops and services.  In the centre of the octagon is the county courthouse.

The octagon is surprisingly large, but I was more surprised by how disorienting it was. After walking more than one block, it becomes very difficult to figure out where you started and how far you have travelled.

The movie theatre on Goderich's "Octagon"
The movie theatre on Goderich’s “Octagon”

While the octagon was strange, I had a much harder time believing the story of the salt mines.  Goderich claims to have the largest salt mine in the world.  It is under Lake Huron; a huge salt bed was accidentally discovered there  in 1866 when a flour mill owner was searching for oil.  Of course, Lake Huron contains fresh water, which makes it difficult to visualize how a huge salt bed could be found here.  And yet, there it is!

The salt mines at Goderich
The salt mines at Goderich

The salt bed is so huge that it stretches some 5 kilometers under the lake.  Just north of the town beach, a series of blue industrial buildings houses the mining complex.  While “working in the salt mines” has a rather negative connotation to most of us, it is actually a desirable job in Goderich.  The mine currently employs 500 people and there is apparently another 100 years of salt left.  If you use Sifto salt, chances are it comes from Goderich!

Lighthouse atop the bluff at Goderich
Lighthouse atop the bluff at Goderich

On our last evening in Goderich, we went to jail.  Voluntarily, of course, and for the purposes of a special interactive Gaol Tour that is offered twice a week during the summer months.   Volunteers from the community dress up in period costumes and set themselves up in various rooms of the (now decommissioned and also octagonal) Huron County Gaol.

The former railway station in Goderich; now a restaurant on the waterfront
The former railway station in Goderich; now a restaurant on the waterfront

Not only are they dressed appropriately, they also “exist” in the late 19th century and talk to you as if you are a visitor to the gaol at that time.  References to electricity would, for example, result in complete confusion.  All of the inmates were very interested in the fact that we were from Kingston, as even then they would end up in Kingston Penitentiary if they received a substantial sentence.

One of the exercise yards at the Gaol in Goderich
One of the exercise yards at the Gaol in Goderich

We learned that many of the “residents” of the gaol were there for the then-crimes of insanity or vagrancy.  Entire families could end up behind bars because one or both parents were accused of vagrancy.   A very large percentage of the residents were also illiterate.   Another striking theme was how bored the residents were.   While they had a relatively high degree of autonomy within their respective cell blocks, there were essentially no learning opportunities or programs to reduce the risk of future offences.

Two of the inmates working in the kitchen at the Gaol in Goderich
Two of the inmates working in the kitchen at the Gaol in Goderich

We didn’t know about any of these places before we started to research our trip to Lake Huron.  In fact, we didn’t know about the salt mine until we got here!  However, the combination of interesting sights and a proud community made Goderich an excellent choice as a Huronian home base.  Stay tuned for more tales from the road!

Sunsets and a Tornado

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

For nearly two hundred years, Goderich has been famous for its spectacular sunsets.  This town of about 8,000 people lies on the shore of Lake Huron (“Ontario’s West Coast”) and faces directly west.  This means that the sun is clearly and vibrantly visible as it sets over Lake Huron at night. In fact, the sunsets can be viewed twice:  once from the beach and again from the high bluff that overlooks the beach.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

As you can see from today’s photos, I decided to take a lot of photographs of the sunset.  This is one of those “essential local experiences” that I wanted to capture on film.  Both locals and tourists were walking up and down the town’s long boardwalk to view the sunset; many others parked their cars facing west and prepared to watch the sunset from the comfort of their vehicle.  This scene repeats itself every summer night.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

Goderich is well aware of its beautiful sunsets.  Once a week, a group of bagpipers “pipes down the sun”.  Many local artists paint or photograph the sunsets.  Goderich would be perfectly happy if sunsets were the only natural phenomena associated with this well-kept community.  Alas, August 21, 2011 changed all that.

Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario
Lake Huron at Goderich, Ontario

On August 21, 2011, a Class F3 tornado struck Goderich with almost no warning.  Wind speeds reached an incredible 300 kilometers per hour.  The tornado raced through Goderich’s unique downtown and caused an estimated $130,000,000 in damage in only 12 seconds.

We saw pictures of the wreckage:  it was horrifying, with buildings ripped apart and massive trees uprooted and scattered all over the town.   Miraculously, only one person died but 37 more were injured.

West Street Willy's - We ate at this Goderich Restaurant.  It was rebuilt after the tornado
West Street Willy’s – We ate at this Goderich Restaurant. It was rebuilt after the tornado

The recovery from the tornado has been swift…but not surprising.  Goderich has had a long history of winning titles such as “Canada’s Prettiest Town”.   Meticulously prepared flower beds are everywhere and are signposted with the names of the local residents who are looking after them.  Even though the tornado has obviously changed the face of the town, Goderich is still winning these competitions.

This civic pride is evident everywhere.  The streets and parks are startlingly clean; if a visitor leaves rubbish behind, a local resident is likely to pick it up and dispose of it.

Some of the many boats at the marina in Bayfield, Ontario
Some of the many boats at the marina in Bayfield, Ontario

About 20 minutes south of Goderich is the village of Bayfield.  The vast number of sailboats in the harbour attest to its popularity with boaters.   It was not hit by the tornado and is recommended in many guide books for its shopping and historic inns.  While the main street is undoubtedly quaint and the village is scrubbed just as clean as Goderich, it also didn’t seem to be quite as real.  As the sweltering heat made shopping a low priority, we decided to return to Goderich for some local ice cream.

Stay tuned for some fascinating facts about Goderich and an unexpected jewel in the middle of southwestern Ontario!

Moving on to Lake Huron

(Goderich, Ontario, Canada)

After reluctantly saying goodbye to our turret in London, we took the scenic route to our next destination of Lake Huron…a lake that neither one of us has ever visited.

We started with a quick look at the University of Western Ontario (which now seems to prefer the name Western University of Canada):  it was essentially unrecognizable to me, as it has been more than 20 years since I last visited.

St. Marys even had a massive opera house!
St. Marys even had a massive opera house!

We pressed on to the small town of St. Marys; it is also known as “Stonetown” due to the limestone quarries and huge cement plant.  Many of the older buildings reminded us of Kingston, as many of them were built from the locally quarried limestone.   It’s a relatively busy place, even though it is not on any major highways, and is even the home of the Canadian Baseball Hall of Fame!  For some reason, St. Marys seemed happier than most of the other places we have visited so far on this road trip.

The spectacular limestone Town Hall in St. Marys, Ontario
The spectacular limestone Town Hall in St. Marys, Ontario

Next up was Stratford.  Like London, Ontario (which is located  on the Thames River), Stratford is naturally located on the Avon River.  It also is the host of the Stratford Festival – an annual theatrical extravaganza that focuses mostly (but not exclusively) on the works of William Shakespeare.  There is even a village named Shakespeare a few miles to the east.

Not surprisingly, Stratford caters to a relatively affluent crowd.  I’m sure our ridiculously cheap lunch in St. Marys would have cost us substantially more if we had ordered it in Stratford.  We looked into seeing a theatrical performance here, but nothing really appealed to us.  After wandering around the downtown core, we headed west on Highway 8 to our next destination.

Another large town hall in a small town:  this is in Seaforth, Ontario
Another large town hall in a small town: this is in Seaforth, Ontario

Highway 8 was a pleasant drive through a series of small towns (Mitchell, Seaforth, Clinton) that I knew little about, other than suspecting that they were probably heavily into hockey and curling…and therefore worthy of my respect.  Due to road work in the middle of Mitchell, we selected Seaforth as a place to get out of the car and walk around.  It had some grand buildings (see photo at the top of this post) and an unhurried pace…so unhurried, in fact, that many shops and services were already closed up even though it was only 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon!

An outstanding Thai Beef Salad ar West Street Willy's in Goderich, Ontario
An outstanding Thai Beef Salad at West Street Willy’s in Goderich, Ontario

We arrived in Goderich, our home for the next two nights, just before dinner.  I’ll be writing more about Goderich in future blogs; for now, I just want to say that our dinner at West Street Willy’s was excellent.   It wasn’t a Thai restaurant, but somehow I found a “Thai Beef Salad” that has to be one of the best and most refreshing salads I have ever had.  This Thai thing is clearly getting out of control but I am enjoying it while it lasts.

Our current home:  the Colborne B&B in Goderich, Ontario
Our current home: the Colborne B&B in Goderich, Ontario

We’re staying at the Colborne B&B:  it is an impressive Victorian home perfectly situated in the downtown core.  We don’t have a turret but there are plenty of turrets elsewhere in this fascinating town on Lake Huron.  Stay tuned for more details!

The Roads of Elgin County

(London, Ontario, Canada)

We decided to avoid too much planning on our full day in London. We started off by visiting the Covent Garden Market: a large covered market with (mostly) food-related stalls.  The variety was impressive and I was about to take a nice overhead picture…until I realized that I had forgotten to return the memory card from my computer to my camera.  For me, the market was the highlight of downtown London. We returned there for lunch where I relapsed and once again had some Thai food.

The historic Town Hall in Aylmer, Ontario
The historic Town Hall in Aylmer, Ontario

It was too nice a day to stay in the big city, so we elected to hit the road after lunch (with my camera fully loaded this time) and visit some nearby towns. We started in St. Thomas, home to about 37,000 people. Sadly, it has recently been hard hit by plant closures (including a Ford automobile plant) and the downtown was awash in empty storefronts. We saw quite a bit of this in London’s downtown too: hopefully, things will have turned around by the time of our next visit.

Another view of the pier in Port Bruce, Ontario
Another view of the pier in Port Bruce, Ontario

Moving east, we stopped in the small but relatively prosperous town of Aylmer. It is the home of the Ontario Police College and also serves the surrounding agricultural region. I was very surprised to find both a Dutch deli and a radio station broadcasting in Low German!  We also discovered that there is a substantial Mennonite community here.

An 1854 "cottage" at Port Bruce, Ontario
An 1854 “cottage” at Port Bruce, Ontario

From Aylmer, it was only a short hop to the shores of Lake Erie. We decided to dip our toes in the water at the low-profile waterfront village of Port Bruce (see photo at the top of this post).  It looked like the kind of place where people have been quietly returning for generations…but haven’t been telling anybody else about it and haven’t changed anything.  It was very peaceful for a beach village on one of the Great Lakes.

Sparta, Ontario

Sparta, Ontario

Driving inland once again, we passed through an area with strong Quaker roots and stopped in the historic village of Sparta.  Although the village is quite small now (only a couple of hundred people), it has had a fascinating history and was booming during the 1870s when it had a population of close to 1,500 people.

We decided to continue with the time-traveling theme and visit the New Sarum Diner for dinner.  It is just about the only business in the hamlet of New Sarum today but many years ago there was a whole lot more going on.  The diner used to be a corn-cob pipe factory (!) before becoming a White Rose gas station and diner in 1943.

The 1943 New Sarum Diner in New Sarum, Ontario
The 1943 New Sarum Diner in New Sarum, Ontario

The diner has been operating continuously ever since.  While a slightly more formal dining room was later added at the back, the original diner is still open for business with the original furnishings…and a substantial portion of the original menu!   I kept getting up to look at all of the historic photos and memorabilia;  one of the diner’s old menus was even on display.  One notable omission from today’s menu is “beans and wieners”.

Soda Fountain at the New Sarum Diner
Soda Fountain at the New Sarum Diner

While the seating may not have been that comfortable for 21st century tastes, it was nonetheless a very enjoyable (and well-prepared) dinner.    The original soda fountain is still in place and I just had to have some of their famous rice pudding for dessert.

You can still order Meat Loaf at the New Sarum Diner
You can still order Meat Loaf at the New Sarum Diner

We returned to London for some evening shopping and did a little bit of planning for our departure from London in the morning.   We’re heading towards another lake!

On the Road…to Paris?

(London, Ontario, Canada)

Our summer road trip has begun!

We met some friends yesterday for a hike at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area, just outside of Milton. The park is located along the edge of the Niagara Escarpment; some of the trails are at the very edge of the steep cliffs. It’s a little disorienting to have such dramatic views of flat farmland! As most of the trails are in the forest, it’s also a great place to escape the hot summer sun.

Rock climbing at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)
Rock climbing at Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)

As we had all worked up quite an appetite, our friends brought us to a recommended Thai restaurant on Main Street in Milton (Canada’s fastest-growing community!). It was an inspired choice: Thai House had a diverse menu and served excellent food. We would happily return there some day.

View from Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)
View from Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area (near Milton, Ontario)

After a night in the unlikely destination of Mississauga, we set off to the historical village of Kleinburg and the McMichael Collection. This is a very famous collection of Canadian art, with a particular focus on the legendary Group of Seven and Tom Thomson. While this part of the collection was obviously a big draw, we also enjoyed the “new” Group of Seven (actually the Professional National Indian Artists Inc.). This “new” group was formed in the 1970s and included prominent aboriginal artists such as Norval Morrisseau and Daphne Odjig.

Selections from the Group of Seven at the McMichael Collection (Kleinburg, Ontario)
Selections from the Group of Seven at the McMichael Collection (Kleinburg, Ontario)

It felt like the trip from Mississauga to Kleinburg took forever, due in part to the urban sprawl in the Brampton area.  The old part of Brampton was nice enough but the endless suburbs, strip malls and “power centres” were rather discouraging…and doubly so on the way back, as heavy rain lasted for a couple of hours.  We wanted to avoid controlled-access highways such as the 401 but were slowed considerably by the extensive development has taken place since the last time we drove through this part of the province.

Modern arhictecture at the corner of Hurontario and Burnhamthorpe in Mississauga, Ontario
Modern arhictecture at the corner of Hurontario and Burnhamthorpe in Mississauga, Ontario

We finally emerged from the sprawl just outside of the town of Dundas: as we travelled west, our spirits brightened even though the rain persisted.  Our first stop was in the very old town of Paris (another place with a French connection!):  most stores were already closed but it had a quaint downtown (see photo at the top of this post) that we would like to visit again someday.  There was even a store called “A Swiss in Paris”:  I’m sure that there is an interesting story behind this gourmet cheese shop.

Surprising discovery in Paris, Ontario!
Surprising discovery in Paris, Ontario!

Our next stop was in Woodstock.  This is where my car was made and it surprised us with 2 vinyl record shops within a couple of blocks.  Record-shopping is always a fun way to unwind and I managed to find an unexpected gem from the 1980s (thankfully with no “1980s drums”!) before long.

After a long day on the road, we finally arrived in London.  We’re here for a couple of nights and are looking forward to our first proper visit to the largest city in southwestern Ontario.  Our home here is the beautiful Idlewyld Inn just south of the downtown core.  It’s a rambling 19th-century house that has been converted to a rather upscale inn. Our room is spacious and even includes a turret!

Idlewyld Inn in London
Idlewyld Inn in London

After getting our bearings, we went to nearby Wortley Village…and had another great Thai dinner!  This time it was Mai’s Cafe and Bistro; the food was very fresh and well-prepared.   While it was very enjoyable, and Thai is probably my favourite cuisine at the moment, we will try to have some non-Thai cuisine tomorrow.  London has a lot of restaurants; I’m sure that we’ll have no problem finding something!

A day in Napanee!

(Napanee, Ontario, Canada)

As some of you know, we will soon be departing on a road trip…the arrangements have all been made but I’ll keep the actual destinations a secret. As a warm-up, we decided to spend a day in the nearby town of Napanee and visit its annual agricultural fair.

Prize-winning poultry at the Napanee Fair
Prize-winning poultry at the Napanee Fair

Somehow, I don’t think I’ve ever been to any of the local fairs. I visited the provincial Ploughing Match in Joyceville as part of a Grade 4 field trip and might have stopped by the Kingston Exhibition once…but that’s about it.  Being seriously allergic to horses (which was confirmed by accidentally encountering horses at the Canadian National Exhibition in Toronto about 25 years ago), as well as a lingering minor allergies to cats and feathers, has made me reluctant to spend much time around farm animals.

Vegetable competition at the Napanee Fair
Vegetable competition at the Napanee Fair

Anyway, I thought it was time to see a local fair…and to see whether my horse allergies had abated in the intervening years.

We started with the exhibition barns.  I felt kind of scratchy in the poultry barn and in the “rare animal barn” (which contained some ponies) but was fine around the cattle and in the goat/sheep arena.  Quite apart from the allergies, I was reminded of how far removed suburban living can be from rural living and how little we think about where our food comes from.   It was strange to see the cute young alpacas…and remember how much I enjoyed alpaca steak in Peru.

A young alpaca playing hide and seek at the Napanee Fair
A young alpaca playing hide and seek at the Napanee Fair

After looking at the craft and food exhibits, we moved on to the midway (see photo at the top of this post).  We weren’t interested in any of the rides but we did wonder about the demanding lifestyle of those who work on “the fair circuit”.   While it is largely limited to the summer months and early autumn, the days are very long and the workers are always living in cramped portable accommodations in between moves from one fair to the next.

Cows at the Napanee Fair
Cows at the Napanee Fair

After the fair, we thought that we’d visit downtown Napanee and see how much it had changed.  We haven’t been in Napanee much recently, but recalled how its downtown was reeling from the arrival of big box stores (including a Walmart) near the 401 highway.   The last time we were there, it seemed like the downtown consisted mainly of “dollar stores” and empty storefronts.

The County Memorial Building in Napanee - I spent quite a few hours here as a law student
The County Memorial Building in Napanee – I spent quite a few hours here as a law student

I am pleased to report that the Napanee downtown appears to have turned the corner. While some areas are still somewhat patchy, there are plenty of new and unique businesses that offer an alternative to the more generic retailers near the highway.    Many of them were closed for the day by the time we arrived but we both found stores that we want to check out on a future visit.  There were even some interesting new (and independent) dining options downtown.

Dundas Street in downtown Napanee
Dundas Street in downtown Napanee

This is what we’re hoping to see more of on our upcoming road trip.  We’re staying in some historic and characterful places and will try to choose shops and restaurants that aren’t found in every other Ontario town.  This sometimes takes a little more work but the research has been enjoyable.

Stay tuned to see where we end up!

Travel Flashback: Helsinki, Finland (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a very enjoyable trip to Estonia, we hopped on a ferry from Tallinn to the Finnish capital of Helsinki.

We only stayed for two nights in Helsinki before moving on to Stockholm, so I can’t pretend that we truly “experienced Finland” based on our brief stay in the capital.  However, we also felt very much at home there, possibly because both the climate and the landscape were so similar to what we have in Canada.

Sibelius Monument in Helsinki
Sibelius Monument in Helsinki

We bought a transit day-pass and traveled on what was essentially a “Hop on, Hop off” tram route that circled the downtown core and passed by all of the major sights.  We started with a tour of the Olympiastadion (Helsinki hosted the 1952 Summer Olympics); there was a great view from the top of the tower.

From there, we visited a monument to Jean Sibelius, probably Finland’s most famous composer.  I was not familiar with his music but the monument was still worth a look anyway.  We moved on to the Temppeliaukion kirkko (“Church in the Rock”), a very modern structure built (as the names suggests) right into a massive slab of rock.

Helsinki Cathedral
Helsinki Cathedral

Every tourist in Helsinki visits the Helsinki Cathedral and we weren’t about to break with tradition.  Despite its imposing exterior, it is very spartan on the inside:  there is no fussy ornamentation anywhere.  Sadly, we couldn’t compare it to the (Eastern Orthodox) Uspenski Cathedral as it was being used for a private function that day.   However, we did experience a bit of the Russian influence by visiting an interesting Russian bookstore (where I picked up a scary but fascinating collection of Soviet propaganda posters).  Helsinki is only about 300 km from St. Petersburg and it has been used on many occasions as a movie substitute for Soviet or Russian cities.

Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki
Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki

The most enjoyable part of our visit was probably our trip to Suomenlinna, a sea-fortress complex (see photo at the top of this post) built on six islands just south of the city.  Ancient fortifications remain in place here and it is also the site of parks and al fresco restaurants.   We had fun climbing and exploring the ruins; in fact, we stayed much longer than expected and ended up eating dinner on the island rather than in Helsinki itself.  We even saw the last surviving Finnish submarine.

Climbing around Suomenlinna, just south of Helsinki
Climbing around Suomenlinna, just south of Helsinki

Finland’s long struggle for independence was quite evident at Suomenlinna.  Finland has only existed as an independent country since 1917:  for the previous century, it belonged to Russia…and it belonged to Sweden for the 6 centuries before that.  To this day, about 5% of Finns still speak Swedish as their first language.

The last surviving Finnish submarine (at Suomenlinna)
The last surviving Finnish submarine (at Suomenlinna)

I haven’t talked much about the food in Helsinki.  After the extremely low prices in Estonia, almost every Finnish menu induced a serious case of sticker shock and, as a result, we didn’t eat out very much.   This was perhaps a blessing in disguise, as we were taking an overnight ferry to Stockholm that included an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord!

Church in the Rock (Helsinki, Finland)
Interior of the Church in the Rock (Helsinki, Finland)

I’m really not a fan of all-you-can-eat buffets, but the one on this ship was excellent.  The food was of a very high quality and the price reflected the fact that you were expected to eat a certain amount of seafood, etc.  All drinks (including beer and wine, although these were dispensed from kitchen-sink-style taps and didn’t look very appetizing) were included too.  Sadly, we were so caught up in the experience that I forgot to take pictures!  Anyway, after a breakfast on board, we arrived in Stockholm the next morning and didn’t need to eat for a long time afterwards.