Our Paris Strategy

(Paris, France)

While I greatly enjoyed my ascent of the Eiffel Tower, the crowds strengthened our resolve to avoid any kind of line-up for the remainder of our 3 night stay in Paris.

Part of the Sorbonne

We ended up devoting most of our last full day to walking in and around the Latin Quarter.  We had a vague idea of where we wanted to go, but also didn’t worry too much about whether we “ticked all the boxes”.  It was very much a case of letting things happen, rather than forcing them to happen.  If we missed something along the way…well, there will probably be a next time.

Street vendor in the Latin Quarter

We started with a visit to Montparnasse Cemetery.  This isn’t the most famous Parisian cemetery:  that would be Père Lachaise, which hosts celebrities ranging from Jim Morrison (of “The Doors”) to Oscar Wilde, Frédéric Chopin, and Edith Piaf.  However, Montparnasse does include famous “guests” such as Samuel Beckett, Charles Baudelaire, Serge Gainsbourg, and the jointly buried Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir (see photo at the very top of this post).   Odd traditions have developed:  there are many discarded Metro tickets at the more famous graves.

Rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île, on Île Saint-Louis

Our virtually random wander through the Latin Quarter (so named because Latin was the language of universities during the Middle Ages) soon found us right in the middle of the famed Sorbonne.  The story of the Sorbonne (actually the Université de Paris, until quite recently), is complicated and the names of the institutions are constantly changing, but it is still a famous academic location.

Quiet moments along the Seine (Ile-St-Louis)

We enjoyed the bookish vibe.  As you might expect, we found unusual bookstores, music shops, and almost comically specialized small businesses.  At one tiny fromagerie, we were given samples of various unusual cheeses:  while the employee was probably hoping to sell us an expensive gourmet picnic lunch, we only bought a small piece of a tasty sheep’s cheese.  We were already planning our own picnic, and this fitted in perfectly.  While we cannot remember the name of the cheese, it was consumed artfully at a park in the shadow of the Notre-Dame-de-Paris cathedral.  Perhaps it is better that we don’t know the name…it will become legendary in our minds and we can now embark on an eternal search for it!

Crowds in front of the Notre-Dame

Speaking of Notre-Dame…we passed it, and ate our picnic lunch behind it, but did not go in.  The crowds were massive and a slightly tense atmosphere of desperate tourism pervaded.  After two weeks in France, we had seen plenty of majestic cathedrals.  We decided to explore the back streets of Île Saint-Louis instead.  While it was no stranger to tourism, it was much more relaxing…especially when we took the steps down from street level and walked along the shores of the Seine.

View from our picnic bench, behind the Notre-Dame

We briefly crossed into Le Marais, where we found a gelateria recommended by one of my travel friends.   The gelato was not cheap, but it was high quality and soothed any lingering frayed nerves from the chaos around Notre-Dame.

Some cafés in Le Marais, as seen from our gelato bench

We wandered back through the Latin Quarter, enjoying the casual elegance of the St-Germain district, before returning to our hotel in earthier Montparnasse.  While I had researched some interesting restaurants and venues for our last night in Paris. we ultimately decided to stay close to “home”.  Stay tuned for the details!