Bryce Canyon – Dr. Seuss comes to life!

(Bryce Canyon, Utah, U.S.A.)

From Zion National Park, it’s not that long a drive to Bryce Canyon National Park. Just when you think you’ve left the bizarre geology behind, Bryce Canyon abounds with it.

First glimpse of the “Queen’s Garden” trail at Bryce Canyon

I didn’t really know what exactly to expect at Bryce Canyon. Well, the “Canyon” title was a bit of a hint, but I had no idea how it would differ from what we had seen at Zion. Sometimes, not knowing too much about where you are going is a blessing: it can make the “Wow” factor even more intense.

Off-season crowds in Bryce Canyon!

It was only a few steps from our parking lot to the canyon rim at Sunrise Point. A huge dropoff, of course, but the colours seemed just a bit more intense than I had seen before.  And the hoodoos were something else: random shapes reaching up to the sky…just like in a Dr. Seuss book. 

Near the bottom of the canyon

And it wasn’t just the shapes that were compelling. Recent snowfall had left a brilliant white frosting on it all. As you descended into the canyon, the contrasting colour from the vibrant evergreens created one “Wow” moment after another. In my continuing camera battery saga, I saw the battery warning light (for my new batteries) after less than an hour on the trail.  

Natural stone arch over the hiking trail

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, it was time to ascend the canyon to Sunset Point. The snow and ice made the already steep climb an even greater challenge. Of course, the greatest challenges usually yield the greatest rewards. Picture Lombard Street in San Francisco, the famous street that ratchets up a very steep hill. Stack a few of those on top of each other, and then add stupendously tall red pillars on either side, sparkling snowy trim, and a brilliant blue sky…it was one Kodak moment after another.

Near the top of “Lombard Street”, just below Sunset Point

I’ve had many memorable Alpine walks, but this one has to rank right up there with the best.  Once again, going in the off-season was a plus rather than a minus: the snow made it visually even more stunning, but the cool temperatures also meant the hike was manageable. And the crowds were nowhere near what they would have been in the summer. I’ll take the high winds and the occasional icy patch any day.

Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point

I’ve just picked a sample of the many pictures I took that day. Even with the limitations of my camera, there were many great ones that didn’t make it to this post. If you like the pictures, stay tuned: I’m sure more will pop up in the future!

Beginning the climb up to Sunset Point

Coming up: we veer south into the state of Arizona.

Zion National Park – Day 2

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Well, this was certainly an adventure! Our mission was to hike up a very narrow slot canyon (called “The Narrows”, of course) in the last week of November. And THROUGH, not beside, the water. This sounded crazy, especially with nighttime temperatures dipping below zero. But, thanks to science, it was still “mission possible”.

Even though the water level was not particularly high, there just isn’t enough room to walk on the side. Often, there is no room on either side. So, if you want to walk, you have to wade. And the water is often waist deep.

So why would you want to get soaked and remain that way for 4-5 hours? Well, the slot canyon is a unique geological feature, and what better way to appreciate it than by traveling through it? The walls can be up to 2000 feet high!

To deal with the cold and wet conditions and not get hypothermia, you need special equipment. Your upper and lower base layers are the same as you would wear for an ordinary (dry) walk. You then have to wear neoprene pants with a special “gasket” (rubber seal) at the ankle. This is to prevent water from going up your legs. You then wear two pairs of space-age foam booties, as well as special canyon walking boots that help walking over the slippery, rough, loose, and/or sharp stones on the canyon floor.

Your feet will get wet after a minute or two of walking. But, somehow, as long as you keep moving, your body heat manages to keep your feet warm. In fact, it’s better to walk in the water than to sit around outside of it. Add a walking stick, and you’re good to go! Just don’t fall in the water, unless you rented the full body suit!

I wish I could tell you about the specific places in the slot canyon. Alas, I was watching my steps carefully and only taking the occasional photo. Today’s pictures are all from that hike, in no particular order. The light was tricky, and 2000 foot walls are hard to photograph from the bottom, but hopefully the pictures give a good idea of what the trek was like.

Apparently, the neoprene is not necessary in the summer: walking the canyon is more of a way to cool off (assuming you have proper footwear), and hypothermia is not really an issue. Of course, the crowds are much more of an issue then!

Looking straight up from the bottom of the slot canyon

Bottom line: I didn’t even know this activity existed before this week. I was a bit afraid of the cold, but it all worked out. I’m even considering trying this myself sometime in Canada…what better way to truly experience a beautiful river?

This is our bus for the week. It is parked at our hotel in Springdale, Utah.

Stay tuned for more from Utah…things get even more unearthly!

Zion National Park – Day 1

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Talk about culture shock! After the sensory assault that was Las Vegas, a couple of hours on the road took us to a much different kind of sensation at Zion National Park in southwestern Utah (photo above is taken from the main lodge area). 

These wild turkeys charged us, but thankfully did not hurt us

This is our first destination in a tour of the “Canyonlands” of the American southwest. While the weather started off overcast and soon turned to rain, we still managed to hike a few miles up and get a feel for the immense scale of the canyons in Zion.  It started off easy (see the photo below), but soon became much more difficult.

The climb begins!

Once the rain began, the visibility got worse and worse…and so did the strength of my batteries! It didn’t make for my finest series of photographs, but it was awesome even with the ever-present mist.  You can get an idea of the scale by looking at the size of the trees in some of the “rock face photos”.

This tranquil pool ends in a sheer cliff…don’t get too close!

The sheer walls of rock reminded me a bit of the Italian Dolomites in places, or possibly the North Face of the Eiger. It was also a bit like ski touring, where you have to pay your dues climbing up the mountain…and you then get rewarded by skiing down the thrilling terrain.  As with skiing, the hiking was much easier going down than going up. However, with the intense red earth (all over my hiking boots at the moment), the experience at Zion was completely different. 

One of the immense stone faces near the “Upper Emerald Pools”

Tomorrow will be even more of an adventure.  The weather is supposed to be clearer, and we are hiking up a canyon for several hours. But not just a path alongside the river! No, the canyon is too narrow for that. Instead, we will be hiking up the river itself, wearing special neoprene hiking gear.  Considering how cold it is here now (around zero degrees in the evening), we are certainly going to putting this special equipment to the test!

The cliffs get crazier as you climb higher…no camera can capture it all, especially with the mist!

Stay tuned to see how this all works out. The camera batteries have been replaced and I look forward to capturing some more of the splendour!

Arrival in Las Vegas

(Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.)

This is my first time in Las Vegas. I’m just using it as a jumping off point for my express tour of the “canyonlands” in Utah and Arizona, but I’m here long enough to form some impressions.

Part of the “Fremont Street Experience”, in downtown Las Vegas

My flight arrived in the late evening, so the bus ride in from the airport was an extravaganza of activity and lights. I had to walk 4 blocks from my bus stop to my hotel (the Golden Nugget, in downtown Las Vegas). Ever try navigating Fremont Street at 11:00 p.m. on a Saturday night with a suitcase and a backpack? It’s complete sensory overload: there are concerts, buskers, rapid-fire light shows on the “roof” over Fremont Street, people ziplining overhead, people in various stages of exuberance and/or intoxication…I was glad to make it to the hotel unscathed!

The “Heart Attack Grill”, that apparently serves free meals to those over 350 pounds

There are definitely some interesting things here (particularly some of the entertainment), but I already find myself rebelling against certain aspects of the place. For breakfast, I went to a vegan restaurant away from the main street. The atmosphere was peaceful, the food was very good, and it was hard to believe that this was the same city that seemed so overwhelming the night before.

My breakfast at the VegeNation vegan restaurant. Those aren’t scrambled eggs, of course.

Not all of my food adventures were successful. I saw a “Donut Bar” that looked really good, so I decided to return there a bit later when I had more of an appetite. Alas, it closes each day when it sells out of the day’s stock…and they sold the last one just as I returned.  Things improved again when I ventured away from the main part of Fremont Street for lunch.  I found a family-run Thai place that, among other things, served excellent Thai iced tea.     

It’s licensed, so it really is a “Donut Bar”! Carson Street, Las Vegas.

Moving on down the list of Las Vegas cliches, it didn’t take long to find an express wedding chapel.  This one started in 1940 and would be rather “traditional” (as these things go); I’m sure the newer ones have all kinds of unusual approaches.

Wedding Chapel on Las Vegas Boulevard

And then, there’s the gambling. I was actually a little saddened by what I saw. The number of slot machines is incomprehensible. Each hotel must have thousands of them. But many of the people playing them seemed bored and unhappy. They looked passively resigned to their fate. At least the players at the card tables seemed to be engaged in what they were doing. 

A small part of a small casino in Las Vegas

I’m glad I had a chance to look around, but I don’t think this is a place that I’ll need to see again.  To paraphrase Macbeth: it is definitely “full of sound and fury”, but it is up to each individual to decide if it is really “signifying nothing”. As for me, I’m glad to be heading for Utah in the morning. I’m really looking forward to some active travel in the midst of some stunning natural wonders.