Category Archives: Posts from the road

Climbing the Leaning Tower of Pisa!

(Pisa, Italy)

I decided to take a break from the arduous climbing in the Cinque Terre to go to the big city…and do some more arduous climbing!

Pisa is not very far from the Cinque Terre.  Although Pisa is a beautiful city and has an extremely old university…it is best known for an engineering misadventure. I had to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa for myself, to see what all the fuss was about. I had also heard that you could go to the very top of the tower.  Wouldn’t that be something?

The Leaning Tower of Pisa
The Leaning Tower of Pisa

Rather than be tied down to a specific time (you can buy a ticket for a specific time slot in advance), I decided that I would just show up.  March is the off-season, so I decided to let fate have its way.  If it was meant to be, then I would do it. Even in the off-season, Pisa gets thousands of visitors a day and they cannot all climb the tower. To balance supply and demand, there is a relatively steep fee. Having come this far, I decided that the fee was worth it.  How many other people would reach the same conclusion?

The belfry (upper) and main (lower) observation levels of the Leaning Tower of Pisa
The belfry (upper) and main (lower) observation levels of the Leaning Tower of Pisa

It was 11:30 a.m. by the time I got to the Tower site. I asked if there might be any tickets left for the rest of the day, expecting that I would be assigned a time slot of something like 4:45 p.m. However, much to my surprise, I was told that I could go up at 11:45 a.m.! I had no time to think about it – the time was now!

The Baptistery and the Duomo, as seen from the Leaning Tower of Pisa
The Baptistery and the Duomo, as seen from the Leaning Tower of Pisa

My first impression was:  is this for real?  It is *really* leaning and it is also very tall (around 57 metres).  It is tall enough that the “lean” is about 15 feet!  The lean became apparent during construction:  the culprit was soft land on one side that was insufficient to hold the tower’s weight.  As there were also a number of delays (construction was in three stages and took almost 200 years), new architects became involved and you can see that the 4th tier from the ground was intended to correct the tilt.

Looking down on the people in the Campo dei Miracoli, from the "low" side of the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Looking down on the people in the Campo dei Miracoli, from the “low” side of the Leaning Tower of Pisa

After an airport-style security check, I was climbing the tower.  The first thing that became apparent is that the entire tower is crooked…including the stairs.  They are made from marble and are rather slippery.  They also have been “grooved” from the many people who have climbed the tower over the years.  It was quite disorienting to climb it:  I caught myself laughing a couple of times because it was such an unusual sensation.

Looking down the main stairs inside the Leaning Tower of Pisa
Looking down the main stairs inside the Leaning Tower of Pisa

When I reached the main observation level after climbing about 300 steps, I was a little concerned about the fact that there was no solid wall or barricade.  There is only a (presumably strong) wire fence, which is great for views  but also reinforces that you are about 50 metres above the ground and that the floor is significantly tilting. The deck is also only a few feet wide.   The “up” side wasn’t too bad but the “down” side felt very unnatural and, yes, rather scary.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa is a prime location for "selfies"...this one is on the "higher" side of the tower
The Leaning Tower of Pisa is a prime location for “selfies”…this one is on the “higher” side of the tower

The views were striking but there was more:   the stairway to the belfry was also open.  These stairs were even narrower.  The belfry level has better views but is even scarier, as the “deck” is actually terraced and each “step” is probably only about a foot wide.  Scariest of all was the “down” side of the belfry level.  I walked around twice, with very careful steps, and retreated to the relatively secure main level.  I stress “relative”.

The Leaning Tower and the Duomo
The Leaning Tower and the Duomo

After a few more circuits around the observation level, I was craving level ground and descended quickly to the linear and perpendicular world.  It’s incredible how disorienting even a slight tilt can be.  I’m so glad that I climbed the tower and experienced an iconic structure in such a direct way…but I also emerged with a newfound respect for engineering and proper planning!

Hike from Vernazza to Corniglia

(Vernazza, Italy)

On the same day that I punished myself by walking from Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare…and back again…I decided to make the trek from Vernazza to Corniglia. In retrospect, the logic is not clear. However, the best I can do is say that if Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare was the most difficult section, I probably thought the next most difficult section would seem like a piece of cake.

Wrong. The sun was still very warm overhead and the first segment out of Vernazza ended up being nasty. It might have been slightly more gradual, but I’m sure that it went higher up. To summarize: it was a hot, endless climb that made me think a reward of gelato was not going to cut it this time.

Cactus extravaganza between Vernazza and Corniglia
Cactus extravaganza between Vernazza and Corniglia

To be fair, I didn’t make it easy on myself.  As with the day’s previous hikes, I ended up doing the trail faster than the “standard time”.  However, I also thought that if I stopped for too long, my legs would stiffen up and I wouldn’t be able to get moving again.  I decided to press on…forgetting that this would merely delay the stiffening to another time.

Clementine tree (left) and my first lemon tree (right), just outside Corniglia
Clementine tree (left) and my first lemon tree (right), just outside Corniglia

The terrain was definitely different from the Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare section.  I was treated to an impressive display of cactus, followed by a variety of citrus trees.  I’ve never seen lemon trees before:  I certainly made up for it on this segment!  I commemorated the occasion by taking a photograph of a lemon tree and a clementine tree standing beside each other.

Approaching the village of Corniglia, just beyond the lemon trees
Approaching the village of Corniglia, just beyond the lemon trees

Although it was little more than an hour after departure that I reached Corniglia, it seemed like much more.  I wasn’t expecting much:  my guidebook drew an analogy betweeb Cinque Terre and the Beatles…and suggested that “Corniglia is Ringo”.  However, I thought it was a charming little place with crazily winding and narrow streets and an abundance of gelato.

It was hard to decide on a reward but I ultimately remembered my fascination with the lemon trees.  When I saw one of the gelaterias also offering a “granita of local lemons”, I was sold.  The granita was like a slushee but with a proper fresh lemon flavour.  It was delicious and I was seriously tempted to buy another one.

My local lemon granita and the place it came from (Corniglia, Italy)
My local lemon granita and the place it came from (Corniglia, Italy)

I also needed to get back to Vernazza for dinner…but there was no way I was going to walk back.  That’s just crazy talk!  While Corniglia has a train station, it is located below the village.  How much below?  Well, Corniglia is the only Cinque Terre town that is not located right on the water.  So there are *365* stair steps leading down to the train station…plus an inclined street or two.  At least I had the sense to take the train from Corniglia rather than to Corniglia…I would have had to climb those 365 steps before even starting my hike.  I passed some very sad looking people on the way down.

How cozy is Corniglia? This, looking straight ahead, is the main street!
How cozy is Corniglia? This, looking straight ahead, is the main street!

As a base for the Cinque Terre, Corniglia loses points for its poor transit connections (although you can take an inexpensive  shuttle bus from the main square to the train station).   But it is still appealing, especially if you really want to get away from it all.

Looking away from downtown Corniglia to the suburbs
Looking away from downtown Corniglia to the suburbs

After all of that walking, a dinner treat was in order.  I went to Trattoria da Sandro and had a vegetable-filled ravioli in a walnut sauce.  I had never had walnut sauce before, let alone on pasta, but it was very good.  Given the calories burned during the day, having apple cake for dessert just seemed like the right thing to do.

Coming soon:  the ultimate vertigo experience!

Hike from Vernazza to Monterosso al Mare

(Vernazza, Italy)

“Go Big or Go Home” is a phrase that has come into vogue recently. Perhaps the Zeitgeist was affecting my decision-making, as I decided to tackle the most challenging of the Cinque Terre trails first. I set off from Vernazza for the neghbouring village of Monterosso al Mare, knowing only that it should take about 90 minutes and that it was very difficult. If it was only 90 minutes, how difficult could it be?  I often walk for hours when I am traveling.

First glimpse of Monterosso al Mare from the coastal trail
First glimpse of Monterosso al Mare from the coastal trail

Answer:  Those 90 minutes could be very difficult indeed.  While both villages are on the water, there are very large cliffs in between…thus necessitating the “Haute Route”.   This means ascending very very steep slopes in a very very short distance.  The trail is narrow and rocky with all kinds of dangers.  It’s fun but you really have to be on your guard.

I crossed this ancient stone bridge shortly before arriving in Monterosso al Mare
I crossed this ancient stone bridge shortly before arriving in Monterosso al Mare

As I hiked in 2014 from the entrance of Machu Picchu to the Sun Gate in the very same shoes, I can attest that this was much more challenging (even without the Andean altitude playing a role).   The sun also plays a factor:  while there was absolutely no danger of rain to make things more slippery, the heat made the endless steep stairs (most of the hilly portions are on uneven stone “stairs”) even more difficult.  It reached a high of maybe 16’C today; I cannot imagine how anybody could tackle this hike in the summer when temperatures are regularly in excess of 30’C and the trail would be much more crowded.

This is one of the easiest parts of the trail!
This is one of the easiest parts of the trail!

And yet…seeing the next Cinque Terre town for the first time is kind of like seeing Machu Picchu for the first time.  You’ve worked very hard to get to that point and you are finally rewarded.  By the time you can see the next town, you are also (probably) going mostly downhill and the heat doesn’t play as much of a role.   Another older catchphrase comes to mind:  No pain, no gain!

The inland part of Monterosso al Mare
The inland part of Monterosso al Mare

Monterosso al Mare is larger than Vernazza and there is actually some vehicle traffic.  While not quite as “quaint”, it was nice to spend some time here to recover from my hike.  I took the opportunity to grab a quick lunch at a “Focacceria”…like a take-out pizza place, but for focaccia.  I tried one with olives and cherry tomato slices at Il Massimo della Focaccia.   I also stopped by the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista (Church of St. John the Baptist), which employs the same black-and-white-striped trim that you’ll see in Florence.

One of the beaches at Monterosso al Mare
One of the beaches at Monterosso al Mare

I then made a questionable decision – rather than take the train (as most people would do), I elected to hike back to Vernazza.  I thought that it might be easier on the way back.  Well, it might be…if the sun had not been directly overhead.  I also knew that there were gelaterias in Vernazza; I could reward myself when I returned.

Inside the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista
Inside the Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

Well, it was probably even worse on the way back because the initial steps were, impossibly, even steeper than those out of Vernazza.  The views were still great and it was thrlling to see Vernazza emerge after about an hour.  However, I was vulnerable when I finally reached the village.  I opted for three different flavours of gelato: pine nut, lemon and “Crema Cinque Terre”.  This last flavour had “Sciacchetrà” (a local dessert wine), whole hazelnuts and chocolate.  The other flavours were good but this one was spectacular.

You’d think that this would have been enough hiking.  But no!  Stay tuned for more!

Arrival in the Cinque Terre of Italy!

(Vernazza, Italy)

It wasn’t easy…but I am finally in Italy’s renowned Cinque Terre region!

Allow me to explain.  I first had to take a train  from Kingston to Dorval, Quebec.  From there, a shuttle bus to Montreal’s international airport.  I then flew from Montreal to Paris:  this was the easy part, as the favourable winds made it only a 6 hour flight.  However, as it was an overnight flight, this also left very little time for sleeping.  After going through customs and security (again) in Paris, I waited for my next flight from Paris to Genoa, Italy.  This was a smaller plane so I had to walk out onto the tarmac to board the plane…with nasty winds and rain swirling around.

Vernazza, as viewed from the beginning of the trail to Corniglia (you can see Monterosso al Mare in the background)
Vernazza, as viewed from the beginning of the trail to Corniglia (you can see Monterosso al Mare in the background)

The flight to Genoa was fine (early again!) and then I caught a shuttle bus from the airport to the train station.  There, I caught a train for Levanto.  It was about 20 minutes late, but I had a buffer before catching my final “local” train to Vernazza (located only 8 minutes away from Levanto by train).  I boarded the train and waited.  And waited.   The train never left and we were eventually told to go to a different platform.  But there was no staff to say which one and…well, it was a fiasco.  To make a very long story short, I arrived in Vernazza 2 1/2 hours after my scheduled time.  Quite a delay for an 8 minute train ride!  Having not really slept on the overnight flight, I was rather ill-tempered by this point and decided it would not be a good time to write my blog.  I’m writing this blog the next day, after a long and satisfying day of hiking (details coming soon).

Vernazza's "business district" in the evening
Vernazza’s “business district” in the evening

And what about this Cinque Terre place?  Picture an ancient Italian village full of colourful houses stacked almost one on top of another, located on the Mediterranean coast, surrounded by cliffs, off-limits to cars, free of retail/hotel/restaurant chains, free of hotels generally, served only by rail (and boats during the summer), blessed with amazing hiking, and proud of its food specialties.  That’s Vernazza…and, that also describes (more or less) every one of the 5 Cinque Terre villages.  The others are Monterosso al Mare, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore…and they are all linked by coastal hiking trails!

I am willing to bet that this is the only "Stalin Gelateria" in the world (Vernazza, Italy)
This is probably the only “Stalin Gelateria” in the world (Vernazza, Italy)

I’m fortunate to be visiting Cinque Terre during the off-season.  Everybody who is here now really *wants* to be here…which means that they are here to hike the trails.  There are beaches but it is too cold for them right now.   Well, maybe not for Canadians!

Vernazza's harbour in the evening
Vernazza’s harbour in the evening

My next couple of posts will cover my hiking adventures.   Today’s post just has some pictures from Vernazza: this is a village of about 500 people (more live here in the summer) and it will be my home for three nights.  As there are no hotels, accommodation here is essentially just in camere (“rooms”) rented out by local residents.  It’s similar to a B&B, without the breakfast.  I’m very happy with my room and location.

My "home" on the right: Camere Fontanavecchhia
My “home” on the right: Camere Fontanavecchhia

My first meal in Vernazza was pizza.  I enjoyed it but it’s not a specialty of this particular province (Liguria).  Tonight’s meal will hopefully be  a little more regional.

Stay tuned for the next few weeks – I am going to be sharing a lot from my first European trip since late 2014!

Ottawa in a Blizzard

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

My previous post talked about our trip to the Supreme Court of Canada, but that wasn’t the only national site we visited on December 29.  We also braved the snows to take a tour of the Royal Canadian Mint.

The Royal Canadian Mint actually has two locations now.  The original facility in Ottawa now produces only special commemorative and investment coins, while the newer facility in Winnipeg now handles the minting of the standard everyday coinage.   The upside of this is that you get to see some seriously valuable metal in Ottawa, as virtually everything is made of silver or gold.  It also produces specialty items, such as the medals awarded during the 2010 Winter Olympics and the 2015 Pan-Am Games.

Security Gate outside the Royal Canadian Mint in Ottawa
Security Gate outside the Royal Canadian Mint in Ottawa

After the tour, we were able to lift a gold bar worth about $680,000.00.  It is securely attached and under the watchful eyes of two security guards; it is also a lot heavier than you’d expect!  The tour is not long but it is also not that expensive; however, you do need to sign up in advance so that you are able to go through the guard post at the entrance to the facility.  Unfortunately, no photographs are permitted during the tour itself.

Bank Street in Ottawa's Glebe neighbourhood
Bank Street in Ottawa’s Glebe neighbourhood

As we had both previously been on tours of the Parliament Buildings, we weren’t too disappointed to find out that the day’s tours were already fully booked by the time we got there.  You can only get tickets on the day of the tour; as a result, there are often line-ups first thing in the morning and all of the day’s tickets were gone by 10:30 a.m.  If the timing works for us, we will try to take one of these tours the next time we are in Ottawa.

Inside the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ottawa
Inside the Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica in Ottawa

That evening, we went to a family-run Persian restaurant called “Saffron” in the Sandy Hill neighbourhood.  It was not fancy but we really enjoyed the food.  They were very accommodating and even suggested that my wife order something that was not on the menu.

The previous day, we spent an entire afternoon at the Canadian War Museum.  It is huge:  there are 4 separate halls plus a large temporary exhibit area:  we were there for about three hours and only saw the “Cold War” hall and the temporary exhibit on Women in War.

Odd device from the National War Museum in Ottawa
Electropsychometer (Lie Detector) from the National War Museum in Ottawa

The Cold War hall focused naturally on the period between World War II and the early 1990s.  It is strange to walk through a museum and see things that you actually remember being part of your own life:  for us, seeing the small display of “Cold War music videos from the 1980s” was especially poignant as we remember when these songs and videos first came out.

A piece of the Berlin Wall at the War Museum. This is the side that faced West Berlin; there was nothing on the side facing East Berlin
A piece of the Berlin Wall at the War Museum. This is the side that faced West Berlin; there was nothing on the side facing East Berlin

I spent some time at the Cold War Simulator, watching the two “best guesses” of how a conflict between NATO and the Warsaw Pact might have unfolded.  Even though these were only simulations, it was still very scary to see a desperate, last-ditch use of chemical weapons followed by a single retaliatory nuclear strike.

My next major trip is now less than 2 months away; I’ve been very busy with finalizing those arrangements and doing the “macro planning” for this summer’s southern hemisphere journey.  Stay tuned for more on those trips and some more travel flashbacks!

 

 

The Supreme Court of Canada

(Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)

One of the fun experiences during our December getaway to Ottawa was a guided tour of the Supreme Court of Canada. As a lawyer, of course, this was the ultimate career-related tour for me.  Other than a visit to the Federal Court of Appeal (housed in the same building) twenty years ago as a law student with one of my professors, I had never been to the Supreme Court.

You cannot just show up for guided Supreme Court tours but it is possible to book them online.  Perhaps because of the raging and long-awaited blizzard on December 29, our tour consisted of just the two of us and our guide. I think he enjoyed providing a bit more detail than he would normally provide to non-lawyers.

A closer look at the Supreme Court of Canada
A closer look at the Supreme Court of Canada – this is a colour photograph!

The building looks very severe from the outside (see snowy photo at the top of this blog – it’s also a colour photograph!), reflecting the rationality that is necessarily part of the Supreme Court’s role.   Despite a huge foyer and impressive staircases, the Supreme Court courtroom is actually not that large.  I have been in larger local courtrooms, although not quite as plush.  Of course, the Supreme Court does not require space for jurors or witnesses:  proceedings here are appeals from lower courts and do not require new testimony.  The appeals are relatively technical and free from the unpredictability of live witnesses.

Main foyer of the Supreme Court of Canada - the stairs lead to the main courtroom; you can also see the formal judge's robe at the bottom left
Main foyer of the Supreme Court of Canada – the stairs lead to the main courtroom; you can also see the formal judge’s robe at the bottom left

Even in front of one judge, presenting legal arguments can be somewhat intimidating.  Imagine presenting to a panel of 9 judges!  I stood at the lectern and was surprised by how close the judges would be in “real life”.   While some hearings are handled by “only” 5 or 7 judges, a lawyer at the Supreme Court is still trying to make very precise and subtle arguments to a lot of very brilliant minds.  Their time is very valuable and you cannot waste it with irrelevancies.  Not only that, but they are also able to communicate with each other during the course of the hearing.  Yes, they have “chat” capability on their computers!  This allows them to focus even more on the most important issues.

Inside the Supreme Court! The judges sit in the 9 chairs facing the camera; the lawyer arguing stands at the lectern near the bottom left
Inside the Supreme Court! The judges sit in the 9 chairs facing the camera; the lawyer arguing stands at the lectern near the bottom left

We also spent some time in the Federal Court of Appeal, where a panel is typically composed of three judges.  This portion of the tour is a little more informal and tour participants can even be photographed on the judges’ bench wearing supplied “judge robes” (which were, in this case, identical to my own legal robes).  We decided to take advantage of the opportunity!

Renegade panel of judges at the Federal Court of Appeal
Renegade panel of judges at the Federal Court of Appeal

You do not need to be on a guided tour to observe proceedings in the Federal Court of Appeal or the Supreme Court of Canada.  It is possible to just show up and watch:  even these highest levels of our court system are open to the public, subject to spectator capacity, security checks and respectful behaviour.   Hearings are also streamed over the Internet.  However, unlike trials with live witnesses, the Supreme Court drama lies in the intellectual challenge and the broader impacts of the decisions on society.

My next blog entry will have more on our wintry trip to Ottawa!

Small Town Ontario, Part 2

(Marlbank, Ontario, Canada)

On our trip to Cobourg, we took the scenic route to get home. What normally takes about 95 minutes of driving ended up taking the better part of the day. However, it was first time for us on most of the roads…and we even visited some communities that we had never seen before.

I’ve called this article “Part 2” because I wrote another post about small towns back in the spring of this year.  While nearly 6 months have passed since then, I’m pleased to report that our travel philosophy appears to be more or less the same:  the best parts were when we found something truly unique to the area.  We ate local food, went to local stores, and didn’t set foot in a single mall.

Former municipal building (now an art gallery) in Warkworth
Former municipal building (now an art gallery) in Warkworth

The drive on Highway 45 northeast from Cobourg was very scenic.  It seemed like the combination of rolling hills and autumn colours got better with each turn, so we drove by a couple of conservation areas without stopping.  We figured there would soon be an even better place to get out and explore in the crisp fall air.  Alas, we waited too long.   The terrain suddenly became more agricultural and lacked the scenic “oomph” we saw between Baltimore and Fenella.   I have no pictures of this segment…only memories.

After a quick stop in Hastings, we ended up in Warkworth.  To Kingstonians, this small village is known primarily as the home of another penitentiary.  However, much to our surprise, it has also attracted a significant number of artists and specialty shops.

Downtown Warkworth, Ontario
Downtown Warkworth, Ontario

We stumbled upon a true cottage industry:  a shortbread cookie bakery where we found an enthusiastic staff stuffing cookies into bags and parcels.  We picked up a couple of bags for later consumption and headed towards our intended lunch destination of Campbellford.  First, however, we passed a ramshackle barn in the hamlet of Meyersburg that hosted a bustling flea market.   Who would have expected an Eastern European deli to be set up in there and selling their own extremely spicy pepperoni sticks?

View across the Trent-Severn Waterway in Campbellford, Ontario
View across the Trent-Severn Waterway in Campbellford, Ontario

Campbellford, like Hastings, is a busy village located on the Trent-Severn Waterway.  We seriously underestimated the size of our meals at the Riverview Restaurant:  after such a massive pulled pork sandwich for lunch, I didn’t really need to eat dinner.  They offered typical diner food, with a daily special of liver and onions and old-fashioned desserts such as rice pudding and jello.

From Campbellford, we drove across sparsely settled countryside to the village of Tweed.  Linked over the years to some post-1977 sightings of Elvis Presley, it seemed to shut down on this Sunday afternoon.   After a brief stop, during which we neither saw nor heard anyone remotely resembling Elvis, we drove down a worryingly isolated and increasingly rough road that finally brought us to the village of Marlbank.

The Moira River at Tweed, Ontario
The Moira River at Tweed, Ontario

Marlbank was at one point a bustling place, but it was bypassed by the provincial highway system and now it appears to have been frozen in the early 20th century.   Non-threatening dogs wandered the narrow streets and vehicles were few and far between.   There were some riveting houses (see photo at the top of this post- it’s for sale!), however, and we did eventually come to a street lined with cars.  The local tavern was holding square dancing lessons and it looked like the place was full.  Maybe this was why Tweed shut down on Sunday afternoon!

As I mentioned in my previous post, we expect to return to the Cobourg area next fall.  In addition to the vintage film festival and perhaps a concert, we will also have some autumn walking to do!

A special evening in Cobourg

(Cobourg, Ontario, Canada)

We went for a road trip this weekend and decided to stay overnight in Cobourg, Ontario…a town located almost 100 miles west of Kingston. This is just a bit too far to properly visit on a day-trip, but perhaps not far enough for a weekend trip. Beyond “it seemed like a nice place to explore, the last time we passed through”, not a lot of thought went into our choice.

We arrived to mid-afternoon rain and quickly visited the shops and indoor sights we wanted to see. We took a look at the historic Victoria Hall concert venue, located in a beautiful old stone building on Cobourg’s main street, and decided that it would be nice to attend a concert there some day.

Cobourg's Victoria Hall at night
Cobourg’s Victoria Hall at night

As the drizzly weather continued, we decided to drive on to the nearby town of Port Hope to do some more shopping and indoor sightseeing. Port Hope has a compact but attractive downtown core and we made a point of visiting its restored “golden age of cinema” Capitol Theatre.

Inside the Capitol, we discovered that Port Hope (and Cobourg) were hosting the Vintage Film Festival that very weekend. They were showing some seriously old movies, including one silent movie on Sunday morning from 1917 that would feature a live piano accompanist! We resolved to return in the morning for that unique experience, if at all possible.

Port Hope's historic Capitol Theatre
Port Hope’s historic Capitol Theatre

As we trudged on through the rain, I saw a poster for an upcoming concert:  “Tribute to The Last Waltz”.  I thought this would be interesting, as it featured a large band of well-known professional Canadian musicians recreating The Band’s legendary 1976 farewell concert.  That concert was made into a movie by Martin Scorsese and also received a triple-album release on vinyl.  In addition to music by The Band, that particular concert also featured performances by The Band with Van Morrison, Bob Dylan, Neil Young, Dr. John, Muddy Waters, Eric Clapton, Ringo Starr and many others.

The Last Waltz in Cobourg
The Last Waltz in Cobourg

Curious, we looked a little closer at the poster.  The concert was going to be in Cobourg’s Victoria Hall!  Tonight!   Should we go?  Yes!  We raced back to Cobourg in search of tickets.  It was a wild goose chase, as stores were closing and the concert appeared to be sold out.  We actually tracked down the promoter himself and found out that two ticketholders *might* not be able to attend.  At one minute before showtime, it was confirmed that there would be exactly two unused tickets.  We were in!  Even better, there were two empty seats in the 3rd row, just a few feet from the stage!

Jerome Levon Avis' drum kit, including a picture of the drummer with Levon Helm
Jerome Levon Avis’ drum kit, including a picture of the drummer with Levon Helm

The concert featured a 9-piece house band (including a 4-piece horn section), plus various special guests…just like the original Last Waltz.  The band’s drummer, Jerome Levon Avis, was the godson of Levon Helm – who was the drummer for The Band!  Other musicians included members of famous bands such as Lighthouse and Blood, Sweat & Tears.

Writing about music is not an easy thing to do.  How do you convey the chill down your spine when a Van Morrison sound-alike has a swinging band and horn section behind him?  When that same band nails a soulful classic by The Band and the whole theatre is singing along like a gospel choir?   It was like that for almost the entire 3-hour concert.  Highlights for us included Bob Dylan’s “I Shall Be Released” and “Like A Rolling Stone”, Van Morrison’s “Caravan”, Dr. John’s “Such A Night” and every one of our favourite songs by The Band:  “The Weight”, “Up on Cripple Creek”, and “The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down”,  among others.

The Last Waltz in Cobourg
The Last Waltz in Cobourg

As we left the theatre, we had all of these classic songs (and more) replaying themselves over and over in our heads.  It was plainly obvious that we weren’t the only ones.  Thanks to the kindness of strangers in Cobourg, we had a completely unexpected and amazing experience (“Such A Night”, indeed!) on what was otherwise a dreary, rainy evening.

We didn’t make it to the piano-accompanied silent film screening in the morning…but the film festival is an annual event and we made a mental note to visit Port Hope and Cobourg again next fall.

Fun with Food in Toronto’s St. Lawrence Market district

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

Even though I lived in Toronto for three years in the early 1990s, I cannot claim to have seen all the city had to offer.  In particular, for reasons that are unclear, I never made it to St. Lawrence Market while I was living there.  Given its proximity to Union Station, I have managed to stop by on a couple of recent visits to Toronto.  If you are at all interested in “specialty foods”, I think it is well worth a visit.

Jarvis Street, just north of St. Lawrence Market, in downtown Toronto
The corner of Jarvis and King Streets, just north of St. Lawrence Market, in downtown Toronto

While the Market clears out as its 7:00 p.m. closing time approaches (that’s when I took the photo at the top of this post), it is extremely busy during the day.  Some of this is tourist traffic but there is still quite a local presence:  tourists generally aren’t showing up at the 7:00 a.m. opening.   Weekends are particularly busy and you may be tempted to give it a pass in the late morning or early afternoon.

I was in search of unusual cheese on this visit.  One of the vendors had lengthy descriptions of its imported offerings and something called “Parrano” caught my eye.  One of its slogans is “the Dutch cheese that thinks it is Italian”, so I asked for a sample.  Indeed, as advertised, it combines the texture of Gouda with the taste of Reggiano Parmigiano…I quickly declared it my new favourite cheese and picked up a wedge to bring home.

"G For Gelato" on Jarvis Street in Toronto
“G For Gelato” on Jarvis Street in Toronto

I also picked up some red Cerignola olives from one of the other vendors.  These are very large and mild-tasting olives but their radiant red colour makes them an interesting, albeit not essential, olive for snacking.

There has been a considerable amount of recent development in the Market neighbourhood.  While not all of it appeals to me, there was one restaurant that I wanted to try:  the innocuously-named “G for Gelato”, specializing in pizza and gelato.  These are two very important foods and I wanted to find answers to two burning questions:  did it live up to its billing as having Toronto’s best gelato?  And did its pizza also attain the heights suggested by its many positive on-line reviews?

My "Prosciutto Contadina" pizza at G For Gelato (featuring lots of arugula)
My “Prosciutto Contadina” pizza at G For Gelato (featuring lots of arugula)

The gelato was excellent.  It’s made on site so it wasn’t cheap…but neither was it extortionate.  I tried two scoops (Dark Chocolate Whiskey and Amaretto DiSaronno) in a cup and I’d have to agree that this was the best gelato I’ve had in Toronto, if not Canada.  There were about 30 flavours and they all were artfully presented.

Although we had intended to have gelato the night before when we had dinner at the same restaurant, our pizzas were quite substantial and we didn’t want to stuff ourselves before the concert.  The pizzas were also very good – certainly in the first tier, with top-quality and well-matched toppings.  Prices were comparable to other Toronto restaurants  but “G is for Gelato” includes taxes in its price.

Friday night in downtown Kingston
Friday night in downtown Kingston

We will definitely return here for more gelato…and, if it is at the right time of day, we will sit down for a no-nonsense but high-quality Italian meal.   Between “G For Gelato” and “Jumbo Empanadas” in the Kensington Market, I always look forward to eating in downtown Toronto!

We expect to go on another road trip next week – stay tuned!

Stevie Wonder in Concert

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

There was a lot of musical synchronicity over the past week.  I wrote about seeing Paul McCartney in concert, received a vinyl copy of McCartney’s remixed “Tug of War” album (featuring two duets with Stevie Wonder), and then went on a blitz of a road trip to see Stevie Wonder perform live in Toronto.

This wasn’t just a “greatest hits” concert:  Stevie was going to perform his entire 1976 magnum opus “Songs in the Key of Life”.  Widely considered to be one of the best albums ever made, despite an extended running length of almost two hours, it spawned both hit singles and “deep cuts” that have had a profound influence on popular music.   Almost everybody knows songs such as “Sir Duke“, “I Wish“, “Isn’t She Lovely” and “Pastime Paradise”…at least by tune, if not by name.

IMG_7275Stevie went onstage at 8:15 p.m. and it was clear that his voice had not suffered over the years.  He also had a huge 36-person band, including a string section, a horn section, a choir, multiple drummers and percussionists and at least 6 backing vocalists.  Songs such as “Village Ghetto Land” were improved from the album as they featured live (rather than synthesized) strings.  Special guests included April Ellington, daughter of…Duke Ellington!  This was a big, big show.

For me, the highlights came fast and furious with back-to-back performances of “Sir Duke” and “I Wish”.  “Sir Duke”, in particular, benefited hugely from the large horn section.  “I Wish”, with its prominent bass, fared slightly less well due to some low-end sound issues but was still memorable.  The low-end issues became rather distracting right before and after the 20-minute intermission but thankfully resolved before too much damage had been done.

IMG_7283While the point of the concert was to play the entire “Songs in the Key of Life” album in order, Stevie did embark on a few tangents. In the first set, he challenged his backing vocalists to match his singing gymnastics solo and without any accompaniment. They all passed the test with flying colours.

In the second set, Stevie played “Ngiculela-Es Una Historia-I Am Singing” with an unusual zither-like instrument called a “harpejji”.   After it was over, he started playing what sounded to me like the chords to John Lennon’s “Imagine” on the harpejji.  He then said that it was his brother’s birthday, to which the audience responded with polite applause.  But it also occurred to me, as someone who probably knows an unhealthy amount of Beatles trivia, that this precise day would have been John Lennon’s 75th birthday.

Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert
Outside the Air Canada Centre in Toronto, after the Stevie Wonder concert

Sure enough, Stevie then said that he wanted to play “Imagine” for his brother, John Lennon.  This definitely wasn’t in the script.  He began playing the song and asked for audience help partway through the song.  It soon became clear why:  he began crying and was unable to sing an extended portion of the lyric.  He recovered somewhat, but wiped away a lot of tears (without apology) before he could continue with the next song.   A lengthy standing ovation ensued and there wasn’t a dry eye in the house.

Concerts are obviously big business and Stevie is not a poor man.  But he is still a sensitive man and, 35 years after Lennon’s death, Stevie is still affected by his murder.  He urged the audience to do what they could to prevent senseless violence and intolerance.

Toronto at midnight
Toronto at midnight

Stevie then resumed performing the rest of his famous album with renewed vigour and finished it about 3 hours after the concert began.  He then assumed his alter-ego of “DJ Tick Tick Boom” for the encore and it is difficult to explain exactly what happened next.  To preserve the surprise, I’ll just say that he played snippets of some disco classics, abbreviated versions of a few of his other hits, and finished with a scorching version of “Superstition”  that made full use of the entire band (again with a memorable brass performance).  It was almost midnight when the concert finally ended; Stevie looked like he had thoroughly enjoyed sharing his music with us.

While there were plenty of Stevie Wonder classics that weren’t played (“Signed, Sealed, Delivered…I’m Yours” is one that I would have liked to hear), there simply would not have been enough time.   As with Paul McCartney’s 2009 concert in Halifax, we felt like we were witnessing a part of history.   We’re looking forward to reliving the experience by playing “Songs in the Key of Life” when we get home!