Category Archives: Posts from the road

Taking Care of Business in Montréal

(Montréal, Québec, Canada)

One of the attractions of living in Kingston is that it is relatively close to three major Canadian cities:  Toronto, Ottawa and Montréal.  Any of these can be reached by car or train in less than 3 hours…a short commute by Canadian standards.  My wife and I often spend a weekend in one of them:  sometimes the “anchor” is a music or sports event, but sometimes we just feel like visiting a bigger city and don’t have any scheduled events lined up.

Every one of my trips so far this year has been through Toronto, so I jumped at the opportunity to spend some time in Montréal.  This was a weekday trip, as I needed to renew my Swiss passport and the consulate’s hours are somewhat limited.  In fact, it was an overnight trip because I had an early morning appointment at the consulate.  I’m not complaining:  Montréal is a great place to visit! 

One of the big attractions in Montréal is the food.  Kingston has quite a good variety of dining options for a city of its size, but it cannot compare to what’s available in Montréal.  Upon arrival on Tuesday, I had lunch at a vegetarian restaurant called Lola Rosa in the McGill University district.  I’m not strictly vegetarian but I like to visit good vegetarian restaurants.  This one was above average – the presentation of the food was especially good.  I had a vegetarian chili; apparently, the beans were soaked in red wine before cooking.

A bad photo- the top half of my hotel (with foliage) on rue Stanley in Montreal
A bad photo:  an out-of-focus and slanted shot of the top part of my hotel (with bonus foliage and sun glare) on rue Stanley in Montreal

Montréal also has an excellent vinyl record store.  It’s called Aux 33 Tours and I visit it whenever I can.  As I’ve mentioned before in this blog, visiting independent record stores helps me to see urban neighbourhoods that are off the usual tourist trail.  After a couple of hours (!) in the record store and a long walk to and from the Plateau Mont-Royal district, I was ready for a substantial dinner.

Dinner certainly was substantial.  I met a friend for dinner and we went to Le Nil Bleu for Ethiopian cuisine.  Whenever I can introduce friends to Ethiopian food, I do.  What can be more fun than eating spicy and colourful food with your hands?  We ordered the “tasting menu” in order to sample a wide variety of dishes. This particular restaurant was located on rue St.-Denis and was a cut above the usual in terms of comfort and variety.  While it didn’t quite match the awesomeness and good value of Winnipeg’s Massawa restaurant (still my favourite Ethiopian/Eritrean restaurant), it was a very satisfying and tasty meal.

The main course of our "Tasting Menu" at Le Nil Bleu
The main course of our “Tasting Menu” at Le Nil Bleu

After “taking care of business” at the Swiss consulate (see picture at top of this post), I did some more shopping and decided to let fate decide where I would eat.  A couple of years ago, my wife and I enjoyed a great brunch at La Petite Ardoise restaurant in the Mile End district.  Alas, it was closed for renovations this time.  The next place to catch my eye was a humble Venezuelan place called Bocadillo at the corner of boulevard St.-Laurent and avenue du Mont-Royal.  I had Venezuelan-style pulled pork (made with passion fruit) and it was very good.

Pulled Pork - Venezuelan style!
Pulled Pork – Venezuelan style!

While this trip was mostly about music and food, there really is a lot to see in Montréal.  Unfortunately, you aren’t going to see much of it in this posting because I forgot my camera.  I packed “without a list” this time because it was such a short trip…and somehow I overlooked the camera.  I had an iPod with me, but it is designed for “selfies” rather than traditional photography.  I did my best with it but the picture quality isn’t quite up to this blog’s usual standards.  I think I’ll need to visit Montréal again soon in order to properly chronicle the city!

Sightseeing in Bratislava and Budapest

(Budapest, Hungary)

Our visit to Bratislava was extremely short. We arrived on the afternoon of September 10, had a pre-game meal, played the game (see my post on “A Great Game in Bratislava” for details), and celebrated the victory afterwards. We only had a couple of hours on the morning of September 11 to explore the city before heading to Budapest.

It was necessary to take a cab from our hotel to the old town. It was strange to ask the cab driver to take us downtown…but not to any particular place. We didn’t really know where to start and we certainly hadn’t done any research. This went totally against my usual “informed travel” approach but the clock was ticking and we wanted to see part of the city before moving on. We were eventually let off at the edge of a pedestrian-only district that seemed close enough to the old town.

A rainy morning in downtown Bratislava
A rainy morning in downtown Bratislava

The plan was simple: walk around the oldest parts and make sure we found a cab back by 11:00 a.m. The old town of Bratislava is relatively compact (especially if you are not entirely sure where it is) so after about 20 minutes we decided to climb a large hill and visit the castle overlooking the city. Climbing up was no problem and we were able to wander around the castle complex for a while.

Part of Bratislava Castle
Part of Bratislava Castle

We decided to descend the castle hill on the other side.  Surely there would be a second way down?  Alas, we encountered one dead-end after another and the timing situation was becoming more urgent.  Finally, we managed to find our way out…but were amazed at how few taxis were roaming Bratislava on this increasingly rainy morning.  Just as the situation became critical (and drenched), we found a taxi stand and rushed back to our hotel.  Yes, this probably could have been avoided with a little research, or even a map.  Intuition is great…when it works.

Changing of the Guard - Budapest, Hungary
Changing of the Guard in front of the Presidential Palace – Buda Castle (Budapest, Hungary)

We had more time in Budapest.  Our hockey game (see “Hockey Night in Budapest” post) took place shortly after arrival on the 11th but we had all of September 12 to ourselves.  I made sure I had a map before setting out; even though I had been here for 3 days in 1991, I was taking no chances.  I also was expecting a lot of changes, as 1991 was still very early in Hungary’s evolution from a one-party system.  I can still recall seeing eastbound trains loaded with Soviet tanks:  it was the winding-up of an empire.

Budapest, Hungary
Parliament Building in Budapest, Hungary

The main tourist areas had certainly been developed in the intervening 23 years:  it was as if a thick layer of dust had been blown off the downtown area.  The views along the Danube (see photo at top of this post) were also as spectacular as ever; it was not hard to see that Budapest flourished during the glory years of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  But when I wandered into the less-touristed areas, it looked like the city was still recovering from those 40 years of post-war stagnation.

Fun in downtown Budapest
Fun in downtown Budapest

Our group reconvened that evening for a final dinner.  Our Hungarian hockey hosts recommended a French-influenced restaurant some distance west of downtown.  I think the best description would be “rustic elegance”:  it reminded me of the upscale cellar restaurants you often find in the German-speaking countries.  Although rather expensive, I couldn’t find fault with the food or the very professional service.  Even so, it would be difficult to eat like this on a regular basis.

My main course at dinner:  goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny
My main course at dinner: goose breast with caramelized apple and bliny

When we returned to the hotel, the adrenaline had finally subsided and I was completely drained.  This didn’t really come as a surprise: in barely a week, we had played 10 games in 4 countries and also managed to incorporate a lot of sightseeing.  It had been an awesome trip with many special experiences…but I was also ready to return home and slow things down a little bit.

Coming up:  some more photos of Budapest and some thoughts on Canada’s image abroad.

Hockey Night in Budapest

(Budapest, Hungary)

While interest in hockey is surging in Hungary, it has not historically been a hockey power.  There are still only a couple of thousand registered players and, since 1939, it has been in the top group at the world championships only once.  As a result, we had the rare opportunity to experience “grass roots” hockey in Budapest.

Ice is at a premium here, as demand exceeds supply.  The only venue available was a relatively temporary facility – the ice was hard and fast but there were no facilities in the arena itself (see photo at top of this post).  The dressing rooms were located in a nearby building that appeared to be built in support of the surrounding track, tennis and soccer facilities.  To get to the arena, we had to walk down a sidewalk and over a bridge.  The route was padded so it was really no problem.

Happy to be playing hockey in Hungary!
Happy to be playing hockey in Hungary!

Once again, the welcome was warm.  All sorts of beverages were laid out for us in the dressing room and you could tell that the Hungarians were thrilled to have us there.   The arena was even named after Canada and the minor hockey program featured “Canada – Hungary” uniforms.

Our opponents (Szigeti Bikák Old Boys) wore Hungarian national team jerseys and warmed up with intensity.  Their top defenceman (#4) looked like he had played hockey at a very high level in the past.  As in Bratislava, the national anthems were played before the game began.  It was a bittersweet moment, as it was great to wear the Team Canada uniform and hear the national anthem one more time…but we also knew that this was the last game on our hockey tour.

Preparing for a key faceoff outside the Hungarian blue line.
Preparing for a key faceoff outside the Hungarian blue line.

Alas, any sentimental thoughts were quickly forgotten once the puck was dropped.  Hungary clearly wanted to put up a strong performance and they were playing with much more determination than the last couple of teams we faced.  Just because the arena was named after Canada didn’t mean that Hungary wanted us to win!  As facilities are limited, I also suspect that anybody who plays hockey in Hungary must necessarily be very serious about it.

The goals went back and forth all night.  While Team Canada had a full line-up for this final game, almost everybody was nursing an injury of some sort.  As a result, when Hungary took a 5-4 lead into the final minutes of the game, it looked like our flawless post-Czech Republic record was in jeopardy.

Oh no!  Time to backcheck!
Oh no! Time to backcheck!

Of course, Canadians don’t like to quit either and we were determined to get the tying goal.  And so, with only 50 seconds left, we gained control of the puck in the Hungarian end.  The puck was passed to one of our injured defencemen who, due to injury, had been having trouble putting any weight on one of his skates.  While it must have been very painful for him, he took a quick snapshot from the point and found the top corner of the Hungarian net.  Goal!

The final seconds of regulation time failed to produce a winner.  It was decided that the tie would be broken by penalty shots.  This sounded good for our injured players, but there was another problem.  Our goalie, having been such a pillar of strength throughout the tour, was suffering from a groin injury and found it hard to move from side to side (or even to stand up, once he was down on the ice).  You could see him struggle to lift himself up after every save.

The play is whistled down after the Hungarian goalkeeper caught my shot from the left wing
The play is whistled down after the Hungarian goalkeeper caught my shot from the left wing

After the initial three shooters for each team, the score was still tied.  However, our fourth shooter scored and the Hungarians now had to score or lose the game.  The Hungarian shooter tried to deke our goalie but failed to lift the puck above our goalkeeper’s outstretched leg.  Victory for Canada!

There was nothing left in the tank.  The hockey portion of our tour was amazing but I don’t think we could have played another game.  I think we were all glad that no hockey had been scheduled for our final full day in Budapest.

Both teams met afterwards at a nearby restaurant for an all-you-can-eat buffet.  As it was now past 10:00 p.m. and I hadn’t eaten since the early afternoon, I was quite happy to “eat all I could”.  There were some speeches and it was clear that each team had a great amount of respect for the other.  Like every other country on  this tour, Hungary showed that Canada occupies a special place in the hockey world.  Hockey can be a fast and tough game but it is still possible to play with respect and dignity.  There is definitely something to be said for hockey diplomacy!

A Great Game in Bratislava (and a little bit about Krakow)

(Bratislava, Slovakia)

The massive hilltop Wawel Castle in Krakow is a common destination for tourists in Poland. It was originally built in the 14th century and was repeatedly expanded over the years as it hosted a long succession of Polish rulers.  Because of our extremely tight schedule, it was not possible to visit the entire complex or even all parts of the buildings that we did visit.  However, we did at least get a flavour of Polish history and the vast area covered by Poland and Lithuania in the past.

Part of the Wawel Castle complex (Krakow, Poland)
Part of the Wawel Castle complex (Krakow, Poland)

Time constraints also forced us to eat on the run…but, in this case, we happily stumbled upon a take-out restaurant that served up the kind of Polish specialties that I had been hoping to find.  The sausage looked tempting but I opted for bigos (a tasty cabbage-based hunter’s stew with all kinds of interesting ingredients) instead.

Bigos in Krakow, Poland
Bigos in Krakow, Poland

From Poland, we moved on to Bratislava, Slovakia.  I think the hockey game in Bratislava was probably my favourite of the tour, with the Budapest game (details in a future post) being an extremely close second.  Some of our players had played the Slovak team last year at a tournament in Germany but were soundly defeated and it was apparently quite discouraging.  This year’s game was only a friendly match but some of our players were very motivated to improve on the outcome from last year.

Even without that backdrop, however, this game was still something special.  We were playing at Bratislava’s impressive Zimný štadión Ondreja Nepelu, also known as the Slovnaft Arena (see photo at top of this posting).  It was completely rebuilt for the 2011 IIHF World Championships and accommodates more than 10,000 spectators.   It is state-of-the-art in every respect and is the home arena of HK Slovan Bratislava, who play in the KHL (the second best hockey league in the world).

Our hotel in Tychy, Poland
Our hotel in Tychy, Poland

We arrived at the player entrance and were astonished by the spacious and extensively equipped dressing rooms.  Our hosts also provided us with plenty of beverages and souvenirs.  On the Olympic-sized ice, the game was preceded by the Canadian and Slovakian national anthems.  It was really special to hear “O Canada” while wearing a Team Canada jersey – even though this technically wasn’t a national team, we did have players from B.C. to Newfoundland on our roster.  I now have some idea what it must feel like to appear for Canada at the Olympics or World Championships.   With music blaring between whistles and a high-tech LED scoreboard, we really felt like we were in “the big time”.

While it is hard to pinpoint the exact reason, I think I played my best game of the tour in Bratislava.  The wide-open ice, the “spectacle”, the emotion of this long-awaited rematch…everything seemed to feel right.  Time seemed to slow down just a little bit and I felt like I was in total control of my game.  Maybe, in some parallel universe, this was where I was meant to play hockey?

Nearing the top of Wawel Hill and the entrance to Wawel Castle (Krakow, Poland)
Nearing the top of Wawel Hill and the entrance to Wawel Castle (Krakow, Poland)

There were also some interesting Slovak touches to the game:  everybody who scored was immediately and ceremoniously rewarded with a shot of a blueberry beverage of unknown local origin.    As the game went on, the “rewards” were expanded to players who earned assists or just looked like they might need a “reward”.  Another great thing about the game is that I don’t recall any cheapshots or animosity between the teams.  Everybody did their best but it wasn’t at the expense of anybody else.

As for the result:  Bratislava looked formidable in the warm-up and two players in particular (#66 and #69) were clearly very strong.  We scored a couple of early goals but Bratislava roared back and the situation began to look dire as several of our players succumbed to (accidental) injuries.  It seemed like just a matter of time before Bratislava’s star players would “turn it up a notch” and ensure victory for the Slovak team.  We rose to the challenge, however, and eventually prevailed by an 8-5 margin.   More so than in any previous game, we seemed to really click as a team.  It also didn’t hurt that our goalkeeper continued his run of stellar games!

The bus that took us around Eastern Europe
The bus that took us around Eastern Europe

After the game, we didn’t feel like leaving the ice.  We wanted the moment to last just a little bit longer!  As the arena staff wasn’t too pushy about us leaving the ice, we took lots of team pictures to commemorate the game.  I hope to be able to share some of these in a future post.

While this was a great night, there is still much more to come.  Future posts will include a little bit about Bratislava itself…and the exciting end of the tour in Budapest, Hungary!

Auschwitz: Unimaginable Evil

(Tychy, Poland)

On September 9, we went to the Auschwitz concentration camps from World War II.  Auschwitz is the German name for the Polish town of Oświęcim; the town still exists a short distance from the camps.  We visited the two main sites:  Auschwitz I and the much larger Auschwitz II (Birkenau). There was also a smaller Auschwitz III and some satellite camps nearby.

This was a very difficult experience.  At first it looks almost pastoral and the barbed wire isn’t even that conspicuous.  But once the story starts rolling, you quickly get a very sick feeling in your stomach.  The feeling doesn’t let up either:  as bad as Auschwitz I was, Auschwitz II-Birkenau took the horror to an even higher level.

Watchtower and electric fence at Auschwitz I.
Watchtower and barbed-wire electric fence at Auschwitz I.

The Nazis cleared out all local residents in an area of 40 square kilometers around the camps.  This made it possible to carry on atrocities without local knowledge.  There was all kinds of misinformation:  the sign above the entrance to Auschwitz I says Arbeit macht frei, which can be translated as “work will set you free”.  This was only the beginning of the massive deception.

It is impossible to capture the overwhelming evil in a single blog posting and I am concerned that this brief narrative will not paint a complete picture.  However, I still think it is important to describe some of what I saw.

Execution wall at Auschwitz I.  About 5,000 people were executed here.
Execution wall at Auschwitz I. About 5,000 people were executed here.

80% of people who arrived at Auschwitz (primarily Jews, but also including other groups who were unacceptable to the Nazis) by train were immediately sent to “showers”…which turned out to gas chambers that would kill them within minutes of entering.  They had no idea what was coming:  people brought their most valuable possessions to the camp and expected to be getting a job the next day.  The remainder were put to hard labour without sufficient food and most died a horrible death through starvation, disease, medical experiments or execution.

It is estimated that 1.1 million people were killed at Auschwitz.  The actual number is impossible to confirm because so many were killed upon arrival.  During mid-1944, at Auschwitz alone, the Nazis were killing in excess of 5,000 people every single day.  The sites were designed for utmost efficiency:  the gas chambers were right beside the crematoria.

Our group enters the gas chambers/crematorium.  Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.
Our group enters a gas chamber/crematorium. Out of respect to those who perished here, no photos can be taken inside.

We actually walked through the gas chambers and crematorium at Auschwitz I where thousands and thousands of people were murdered.   It is very difficult to put into words what it felt like to be in that place.  If you can imagine the most haunted building and the most sickening feeling you can remember, and then wonder what could possibly have motivated people to be so evil and commit such heinous acts of mass murder…that combination would begin to describe what we all felt.

Auschwitz was not the only concentration camp.  When you include the other Nazi camps, the numbers (it is estimated that 6 million Jews were murdered by the Nazis) are even more incomprehensible.  It was a continent-wide assembly line of death.

A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I
A tiny fraction of the shoes taken from children who were murdered at Auschwitz I

We walked by some “inventories”:   huge displays of property confiscated from the camp residents that had not yet been put to use by the Nazis by 1945.  The sheer volume was astonishing but the worst was the hair:  the Nazis sheared the residents and used all of the hair to make garments and other “knits”.  We saw a display case that was about 40 metres long, several metres high and several metres deep…still filled with human hair that had not yet been converted to another use before the camp was finally liberated.

The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)
The railway line leading into Auschwitz II (Birkenau)

We also saw the main “receiving centre” at Birkenau (see photo at the top of this posting).  Here, new arrivals by train would be assessed in a split second by a Nazi doctor.  If he pointed left (which happened almost all of the time, especially if you were a child, female, elderly, or disabled), you would be dead that day.  If he pointed right, you were deemed fit for labour…but you would almost certainly die within weeks or months.  Death could come from starvation, execution, gassing, disease, or even the rats who infested the lower bunks.

Miserable housing at Birkenau.  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.
Miserable housing at Birkenau:  5 people per bed, in this totally uninsulated and vermin-infested horse barn.

There is so much more that could be said.  So much humiliation and inhumanity…and that was for those who survived the initial culling.  In addition, the survivors would smell the furnaces from the crematoria that were burning each and every day.  I won’t discuss the medical experiments that were performed on the camp residents.  I think the only thing that saved me from being physically ill was the fact that we did not see the video that most people watch upon arrival at Auschwitz.  It contains footage taken by the Red Army when Auschwitz was liberated in early 1945.  I have seen snippets of this footage in the past and the condition of the surviving prisoners is extremely disturbing.

Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II - Birkenau)
Exterior of the building shown in the previous photo (Auschwitz II – Birkenau)

If you have the opportunity to visit a concentration camp like Auschwitz, you should give it serious consideration even though it is by no means “enjoyable”.  It will have a profound effect on you and it will be impossible to view the world in quite the same way afterwards.

Hockey in Poland (and a bit more of Prague)

(Tychy, Poland)

After our very challenging first 3 games in Prague, we were able to take it easy on Sunday. The only organized activity was a dinner cruise on the Vltava River.

A bunch of us decided to visit the Museum of Communism, for a look at what life was like from 1948 to 1989 in the Czech Republic.  The three largest exhibit rooms were entitled “Dream”, “Reality” and “Nightmare”; the situation moved quite rapidly from “dream” to “nightmare”.  There was even an interrogation room where confessions would be obtained under extreme duress.

The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic
The Interrogation Room at the Museum of Communism in Prague, Czech Republic

It was sobering to see how quickly Czech life became unbearably oppressive during those years.  We saw a grocery store stocked with only a couple of (not very desirable) products, the bribery necessary to get anything done,  and the sheer number of collaborators and informants who enabled the totalitarian nightmare to continue.  We also saw a movie showing the police brutality that took place just outside the front door of our hotel.   All of this reminded us of how fortunate we are in Canada.

Another view of the old town square in Prague
Another view of the old town square in Prague

The river cruise was quite mellow.  There was no commentary, just a buffet and a slow journey up and down the river.  As I found during our canal cruise in Haarlem, it’s nice to see a city from a different perspective. Given the crowds in Prague, it’s also great to have a bit more personal space while admiring the city.

View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)
View of the Charles Bridge from our boat (Prague, Czech Republic)

Monday morning saw us driving to Opole, Poland for a series of games.  We had just over 2 hours of ice time, so we alternated playing against teams from Tychy and Wroclaw.  Playing 4 straight games against teams that could rest between games turned out to be quite demanding, especially as the ice was not resurfaced during that time.  However, I’m pleased to report that Canada’s hockey honour was restored with 4 straight victories over our well-rested opponents.

Our first stop in Poland:  a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border
Our first stop in Poland: a roadside restaurant just inside the Czech/Polish border

We received a very warm welcome in Opole; they seemed genuinely thrilled that we had made the journey.  Gifts were exchanged and there were many Polish beverages available before and after the game.  The Canadian spectators reported that the Polish fans were also gracious and friendly.

Our bus driver got lost on the way to our hotel in Tychy after the game, so a one-hour journey turned into a three-hour odyssey through the misty Polish night.  We finally arrived (after eating “dinner” at a 24-hour gas station) just before 1:00 a.m.  No harm was done, though, and I think everybody fell asleep quickly after arrival.  Fortunately, our hotel is right beside the arena where we play(ed) on Tuesday night!

Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 "Velvet Revolution") in Prague, Czech Republic
Wenceslas Square (site of the 1989 “Velvet Revolution”) in Prague, Czech Republic

On Tuesday, we visited the famous city of Krakow as well as the infamous concentration camp at Auschwitz. I will be describing those visits in a separate posting.  We also played the Tychy team (in their home arena) Tuesday night and were once again victorious.  We really enjoyed the evening, as a couple of Polish and Canadian players switched teams and we had a fun night of pizza and refreshments after the game at our hotel.  Tomorrow, we once again move on!

Prague and our first hockey games

(Prague, Czech Republic)

The last time I was in Prague was in 1999. I had recently finished my law studies and I was living on a real budget. I was travelling with a friend from Toronto and we found our accommodation as we stepped off the train in Prague’s central train station. We went with a “gut feeling” that the guy who approached us was trustworthy and that our $15/night room (or was it $10?) northeast of downtown would be safe.

Prague's famous Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)
Prague’s famous Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square)

Needless to say, it is a little different this time around.  The tour organizer has taken care of everything.  We are staying at a well known international chain hotel right in the middle of downtown on the famous Wenceslas Square. Our own bus is taking us to our hockey games and will also be shuttling us around 4 different countries.

Prague is a beautiful city and it receives a lot of tourists!
Prague is a beautiful city and it receives a lot of tourists!

As for the hockey…the first game was a real eye-opener.  Our opponents were led on the ice by Milan Novy: the Czech national team player who was apparently described by Bobby Orr in 1976 as the best player in the world at the time (after leading Czechoslovakia to a win over Canada in the first round of the Canada Cup).  Novy was also one of the few Czech players to play in the NHL before the fall of the iron curtain.

Zimní stadion in Prague:  we played all of our Czech games here
Zimní stadion in Prague: we played all of our Czech games here

While Novy is now in his 60s, his teammates were various Czech ex-professionals from the much more recent past.  Our team, meanwhile, had arrived from Canada that same day and were both sleep-deprived and jet-lagged.  Our goalkeeper played a heroic game to keep the score down and we managed to score 3 goals against this Czech all-star team.  We were told that this was probably the strongest team we would face…but that our next Czech opponents were younger and “almost as good”!

The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!
The puck must be very close to me, as I look very intense here!

That assessment was correct.  Our two opponents on the second day also had former professionals, although not as many as on the first team we played.  As for the outcomes:  let’s just say that our results “improved”!  None of our opponents could be classified as weak in any way…and they were all extremely motivated to win because this was actually considered a tournament (we had thought that they were all exhibition games).  The last game was especially close but some very “flexible” rules proved to be our downfall.  I won’t go into the details but the bottom line is that any penalty results in an automatic penalty shot.

Once again - the puck must be close!
Once again – the puck must be close!

All three of our games in Prague were at the Zimní stadion.  It clearly goes back to the days of communism and, surprisingly, has North American dimensions rather than the wider international ice surface.  However, the blue lines are very close together:  this means that there is a lot of room in the attacking zone and our opponents really took advantage of that.

While the on-ice results haven’t completely been what we hoped for, we still had a lot of fun playing the familiar yet different European game.  After 3 games in less than 24 hours, though, there won’t be any hockey tomorrow.  We can be tourists for a day!

Hockey Tour of Eastern Europe!

(Toronto, Ontario, Canada)

I will soon be flying to Prague  in order to commence the trip of a lifetime: a hockey tour of Eastern Europe!  We will have a game every day (more or less) for the time that we are there.  There are also some special events and there will even be time for a little sightseeing along the way.

I visited Prague in 1999 and was able to watch a professional hockey game between Prague archrivals Sparta and Slavia.  However, I have not played hockey in any European country other than Switzerland and now I’ll have the chance to play in four different countries (including a couple that don’t have a very high hockey profile yet).

This trip was not part of my initial 2014 travel plan.  I was talking to one of my hockey friends a couple of months ago and he mentioned that he was going on this tour.  It sounded great and I told him that I could be a last-minute replacement if anybody had to bail out.  Within days, that’s exactly what happened!

Not only will this be an incredible experience for my team, but it will also be memorable for our opposition.   Canada still enjoys an almost mythical reputation as the birthplace of ice hockey and home of the greatest players and (national) teams.  Of course, it also means that our opponents will be thrilled with any success that they have against us.

As you can imagine, there will probably be little time for blogging or photography on this trip…but I promise to do what I can and then catch up when I get back to Canada.

Game on!

Last Day in the Netherlands – Into the Canal!

(Haarlem, the Netherlands)

On August 24. we woke up to cool weather and blue skies – a perfect combination for getting out on the water. My wife had expressed interest in doing a canal tour in Amsterdam during this trip if the weather was right…but we then realized that canal tours departed only a 3 minute walk from our hotel in Haarlem. We had covered a lot of territory during our visit to the Netherlands so it made sense to cut down on the commuting for our last day.

We were able to get on a open-topped boat tour that departed only 5 minutes later. Dutch weather is notorious for changing quickly but we calculated that the tour would likely be over before the weather could turn rainy again.   Yes, we remained optimists even after the notorious “7 rains in one day” situation just a few days before.

The boating district, near our hotel in Haarlem
The boating district, near our hotel in Haarlem

In our bright orange “gondola”, it was almost like navigating the canals of Venice. Even though we had walked along Haarlem’s canals for the past 4 days, it was much more impressive to see the city from the water. Our guide had just the right combination of information and sarcasm to make the commentary both entertaining and enlightening.

The "Adriaan" windmill in Haarlem, as seen from the water on a sunny day
The “Adriaan” windmill in Haarlem, as seen from the water on a sunny day

We even had some close calls, as we went under some bridges with very little clearance. We easily touched the undersides of the bridges with our hands as we passed underneath them. The guide also liked to wander around the boat and talk to the passengers, before rushing back to steer the boat away from walls, bridges and other watercraft.  As a bonus, the weather remained pleasant throughout.

We made it under this bridge - but not without some anxiety! (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
We made it under this bridge – but not without some anxiety! (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

The rest of the afternoon was spent shopping and enjoying the relaxed pace of a Haarlem Sunday.  I found some properly-fitting soccer shin pads as well as another nifty surprise for my sister’s upcoming birthday.  My sister spent two years living in the Netherlands so it is a lot of fun to shop for her here.

As we neared the end of our five night stay, our hotel in Haarlem was beginning to feel like home.  The only thing that was missing was a proper fridge, so that we could buy more local food products and not rely as much on restaurants and take-out food.  Many times, I found myself wanting to buy a particularly interesting cheese…but having to decline because we didn’t really have the facilities for it.  I consoled myself with some snack-sized purchases, when possible.

The Haarlem Waag (Weighhouse), as seen from the canal.
The Haarlem Waag (Weighhouse), as seen from the canal.

For any future trips to Europe, we will give serious consideration to renting a kitchen-equipped apartment for a week or two.  Food is one of travel’s great pleasures but eating out for more than a few days at a time becomes rather expensive and, just as importantly, begins to lose some of its lustre.  I think it’s just as fun to pick up the day’s bread (or pastries!) at the local bakery and supplement it with foods that we wouldn’t ordinarily eat at home in Canada.

For our last dinner in the Netherlands, we went to a Thai restaurant just south of the main dining district.  I was proud of myself for ordering an appetizer that was not translated or explained; even after tasting it, neither of us could tell if the filling was fish, chicken or vegetarian.  In any case, it came with a fiery and flavourful dipping sauce, so in the end it didn’t really matter that much.  The main course was fine; I had low expectations for the dessert (described as “banana in warm milk”) but it was actually quite tasty with cinnamon and nutmeg accents.

It’s always a little sad once a trip is clearly at an end.  We really enjoyed ourselves in the Netherlands and we are bringing home a lot of little reminders of the trip.  Stay tuned for some final commentary and some hints about my next trip – on September 4, I’m heading out on another intercontinental adventure.

Edam: More Than Just Cheese?

(Haarlem, the Netherlands)

The weather in the Netherlands had improved enough on August 23 for us to embark on a small road trip to a nearby town.  My favourite “mass market” Dutch cheese is Gouda (which naturally originates in the town of Gouda), but we decided to visit Edam instead as it is easily accessible from Haarlem.

There was a bit of a hiccup when we got to the Haarlem train station and discovered that the balances on our OV-Kaart (chip card for Dutch transportation) were quite a bit lower than we expected.  This new ticket-free electronic system requires you to check in and check out every time you ride a bus or train.   We apparently forgot to check out once, so we were charged the maximum national fare for what was a very short trip from Amsterdam to Haarlem.

Fishing on a cloudy day in Edam, the Netherlands
Fishing on a cloudy day in Edam, the Netherlands

One of my friends had warned me that this system was very tourist-unfriendly but until now everything had been OK.  Alas, rectifying the problem cannot be done by a train system employee (even though they are able to track exactly what happened).  Instead, you need to call a special phone number (for which you pay a per-minute rate) and, if accepted, you will receive a refund cheque in the mail.  In Euros, of course, and apparently only in the Netherlands.  This is obviously not very practical if you don’t live in the Netherlands and don’t use Euros at home.

Downtown Edam, the Netherlands
Downtown Edam, the Netherlands

The need to maintain such a large minimum balance on the chip card for any train trip is also tourist-unfriendly and discourages use of the train by tourists who are about to leave the country.   This was all very frustrating but we tried not to let it bother us too much.  Edam itself was quaint (only 7,500 residents) and not nearly as busy as Amsterdam, even though it was a summer weekend.  One important specialty store was open, however, and I was able to pick up a special surprise for my sister’s upcoming birthday.

Tree-lined road in Edam, just like the ones we saw in the provinces of Groningen and Drenthe
Tree-lined road in Edam, just like the ones we saw in the provinces of Groningen and Drenthe

We visited the square where the (now purely ceremonial) weekly cheese-weighing takes place, as well as the town’s huge church.  Here, we spent some time looking at the gravestones and learning a little bit of Edam history.

Cemeteries are often a great way to learn more about another country; we don’t necessarily go looking for them, but we also don’t avoid them if we happen to encounter one when we are exploring.   Not surprisingly, I didn’t see any relatives in the graveyard here.  The distance from here to the ‘s-Gravenzande area is minimal by today’s standards but it would have been massive in the 17th century.

Deep in the suburbs of Edam, the Netherlands
Deep in the suburbs of Edam, the Netherlands

As Edam appeared to be geared primarily towards day tourists, we decided to return to Haarlem for dinner.  There are a lot of dining options here and I expect to devote a post to Dutch dining in the near future.   There are also lots of dessert options:  most restaurant menus include appelgebak (a substantial apple pie) but it is also quite easy to find take-out gelato and waffle places.  This suited my wife and I perfectly, as these are two of our favourite desserts.

Waffle with chocolate sauce, cherries *and* whipped cream (Haarlem, the Netherlands)
Waffle with chocolate sauce, cherries *and* whipped cream (Haarlem, the Netherlands)

Tomorrow (August 24) will be our last full day in the Netherlands before returning home.  Our plans will depend on the weather; we would like to do a canal cruise if the rain stays away.   There is also a museum with a special exhibition on vinyl records in the Netherlands – this is our back-up plan.  Either way, we’ll also spend some time shopping, as clothes here tend to fit us better than the clothes back home.