The costs of Switzerland

(Wengen, Switzerland)

It’s not an outdated stereotype. Switzerland *is* expensive. But not necessarily in the ways you’d expect, and there are ways to mitigate it somewhat.

The mighty Eiger looms high above the Gummi lift

First of all, lift tickets in Switzerland are still cheaper than lift tickets in the big North American resorts. This is because skiing is not just a sport for the wealthy in Switzerland. It has traditionally been thought of as a middle-class family activity. This “accessibility” has its limits, though…Zermatt, for example, is now creeping up to North American price levels.

A very bright moment between Männlichen and Kleine Scheidegg

If you can, bring your own ski equipment. Many airlines will take a ski bag at no extra cost. Swiss ski rental costs have skyrocketed in the last few years. I always bring my ski boots from home, but renting skis is no longer the relative bargain it used to be. This partly results from high Swiss wages. There is labour involved in preparing rental skis, and that cost is partly borne by the renter.

Hut at the base of the Tschuggen T-bar

Similarly, restaurant prices can give you a serious case of sticker shock. Even though taxes and tip are included in the price, it still is quite an adjustment (despite the post-COVID price bump we saw in Canada). Unlike much of Canada, Swiss restaurant employees are paid a living wage. This is great but, as with ski rentals, it is reflected in the price to the consumer.

Looking out over the Lauterbrunnen valley, from the Black Rock piste

One option is getting a half-board hotel room. This means that both breakfast and dinner are included in your room rate. You may not have much choice on the menu, but it is usually much more economical than eating a la carte at restaurants outside your hotel. When you have half-board, you only pay extra for the beverages you consume at dinner. At the Hotel Bellevue in Wengen, we had great five-course meals every night at 7:00 p.m. It was no problem to get cleaned up in time for dinner after a long day of skiing. Eating in your hotel also saves you the time involved in deciding on and getting to/from a restaurant.

This was our table for the week at the Hotel Bellevue in Wengen. What a great view to have every morning!

Also, with buffet breakfasts, you can eat quite well and not need an expensive lunch. Lunch on the slopes can easily be just a bowl of soup (generally served with bread), which is much cheaper and quicker than having a heavy entree. Fortunately, Swiss mountain restaurants are not exorbitantly priced. They are private undertakings that must also be sustainable with a non-skiing clientele during the rest of the year.

Appetizer on Day 7 at the Hotel Bellevue. Pastetli (vol-au-vent) filled with wild mushrooms, on top of a cheese fondue sauce

Consider going vegetarian in Switzerland. Main courses without meat, or with minimal meat, are significantly cheaper than those with meat. And if you must eat meat, avoid things like steak. They are obscenely expensive and, in my non-expert opinion, not all that Swiss. Eat local specialties… largely meat-free local options like Rösti and Älplermagronen are both tastier and easier on your wallet.

View from the Eigergletscher

As for hotels, go with family-run hotels that offer a solid breakfast (and no frills). Don’t be a star snob: even a one- or two-star Swiss hotel is going to be far cleaner and more comfortable than you would expect. The stars mostly refer to the frills, not the basic quality and comfort. And the food in a locally-run hotel is more likely to be affordable too. There’s no need to pay for a major chain’s advertising budget.

One of the restaurants (and a lot of crows) at Kleine Scheidegg. We didn’t eat here.

Finally, travel costs are heavily skewed in favour of locals. They can buy various passes that really drive down costs. Tourists who are only here for a week aren’t so lucky. Do your research…if you can stay for at least two weeks, you might be able to find a pass that cuts your ground transportation costs too. Or try to visit places that are close to an international airport. Geneva or Zurich are within Switzerland itself, but don’t forget about major international cities like Milan (Italy) or Lyon (France). Airfares to those places are often much cheaper than airfares to Swiss destinations. And if your ground transportation is mostly outside Switzerland, that saves money too.

Another view of the Eiger. It’s very easy to take pictures of it from the Männlichen area!

There is still more to come on Switzerland! (All of today’s pictures are ones I didn’t use in my previous post about skiing at Wengen.)

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