Vancouver Island’s South Coast

(Langford, B.C., Canada)

We’re having a splendid time exploring our home for the next ten days. Today, we focused more on the natural side of things by taking a road trip along the southern coast of Vancouver Island.

The Sooke Tourist Office (and the Sooke Region Museum) – Sooke, B.C.

We started off our day at the Tourist Office in Sooke, about 45 minutes west of Victoria on the Juan de Fuca Strait. This is always a good idea, especially to get up-to-date maps and to ensure our carefully researched plans actually make sense in reality. The advice was superb, and so was the attached museum and shop (with very reasonable prices). And the Spirit Bear out front was great too.

Entrance to the Whiffin Spit – Sooke, B.C.

To prepare ourselves for the big walk that would come later, we started by hiking the “Whiffen Spit” on the Sooke waterfront. This is a very narrow finger of land that extends quite some distance into the bay. And, as we’ve noticed at every outdoor site we visited today, you have to be mindful of the bears!

The Shirley Delicious restaurant in Shirley, B.C.

For lunch, we drove west to the “community” of Shirley. Their renowned restaurant is called simply “Shirley Delicious”, and it is hard to imagine how the food could be any fresher. The paninis are justly famous. They also have a lot of vegan offerings.

The Sheringham Point Lighthouse – Shirley, B.C.

From Shirley Delicious, a short drive downhill takes you to the Sheringham Point Lighthouse trail. The lighthouse is no longer in service, but it is now being maintained as a National Heritage Site. As you can see from the photos, it has a splendid location overlooking the Strait. But our most vivid memory of the day is what happened offshore…

Approach to Sheringham Point Lighthouse (Shirley, B.C.) – home of a major wildlife sighting!

From the lighthouse, we were treated to a spectacular display of…whales! We believe we saw humpback whales as well as killer whales (orcas). I have seen some whales in Newfoundland before, but never this close and this impressive. They were HUGE! We lost track of how many we saw, but agreed that the emergence of a whale’s entire tail was probably the most stunning. Seeing these incredible creatures also makes you feel very…small.

Start of the Juan de Fuca Trail (Jordan River, BC) – and our hike to Mystic Beach

But we weren’t done yet. We drove even further west, just past the community of Jordan River, to the trailhead of the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail. Our goal: the alluringly-named Mystic Beach, with its own waterfall!

Typical terrain on the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail

While only about 2km away, the hike to the beach is not easy. The trail is a minefield of stones, exposed roots, steep drops, and slippery surfaces. The only factor in our favour was that the very dry summer has eliminated the muddy parts. There was even a suspension bridge, which swings somewhat alarmingly when you start walking on it. Especially with the rainforest environment, this really reminded me of Costa Rica.

Mystic Beach! (Waterfall just out of sight)

Finally, we heard the roar of the ocean. And then our final descent found us right in the middle of a beautiful rocky beach (with a sandy portion just to the east). It was quite the payoff after a difficult trek. It was also cool to see the waterfall cascading into the ocean, although at this time of year there wasn’t much more than a trickle.

Looking in the other direction at Mystic Beach

Even more than at Sooke or Shirley, the roar of the waves was much louder than we expected. While we didn’t see whales here, the choppy waves would have made them difficult to see in any event. But we weren’t disappointed…we had already had a pretty special whale experience already!

We had to cross this suspension bridge on the way to/from Mystic Beach. It moved a *lot* when you walked on it. The photo doesn’t capture how high above the ground it really was.

After chilling under a shady tree for a while, we headed back up the same trail. Interestingly, even though the return trip was much more uphill than downhill, we completed the return portion faster than the initial descent. I think this was because there were a lot of dodgy downhill parts on the way down, and it is much easier to fall when going down a trail like that.

Looking up, near the Juan de Fuca Marine Trail trailhead

The last photo valiantly tries to convey how impressive the trail surroundings were. We tended to focus on our footing, but every once in a while we’d stop and look up at the ridiculously tall trees (including Douglas firs) that completely surrounded us.

Despite the busy day of hikes, I managed to get some lawn bowling practice in too. That’s why I’m here, after all! Stay tuned for some more pre-competition sights!

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