(Rethymno, Crete, Greece)
Like a lot of massive complexes, it’s difficult to properly capture the scale and commanding location of Rethymno’s Fortezza (fortress). But, as you can see from the photo above, sometimes you can get an idea of the scale by taking a picture from the complex itself.
The Fortezza occupies the entire upper part of a hill overlooking the old town of Rethymno. It’s big: the walls are 1.307 km (4288 feet) long. And the name might sound Italian…which it is. The Venetians built it between 1573 and 1580. And like so many things in Crete, it eventually fell to the Ottoman Empire for a couple of centuries.
Getting to the Fortezza does require some effort. Although it is huge, and you can see it from everywhere, there is only one (open) entrance. And regardless of how you approach it, you are in for a bit of a climb to get in. And don’t ignore the gift shop at the entrance – it had the best selection of postcards that we saw on our entire trip to Greece.
So, what’s it like in the Fortezza? It’s not expensive (I think we paid 5 or 6 Euros each to enter), and there isn’t much in the way of information. But it reminded me of being let loose in a massive private park. It was practically empty, and we were free to explore or linger wherever we wanted and at out own pace. No “timed entry” here, like at the Acropolis in Athens! (Incidentally, in ancient times, the Fortezza site first held an Acropolis too.)
We first walked most of the Fortezza‘s perimeter, enjoying the various views of Rethymno, the surrounding mountains, and the Mediterranean Sea. Yes, the sea was just as blue here as it was everywhere else in Crete!
We then turned our attention to the various structures that remained inside the massive walls. The obvious focal point was the Mosque of Sultan Ibrahim, with its distinctive domed top. When it was first built, however, it didn’t have that dome because it was the Cathedral of St Nicolas.
The interior of the mosque was eerily sparse, but spectacular all the same. While pictures can’t do it justice (just like the Pantheon in Rome!), the tiled dome interior was a definite highlight.
Without signage, we were left to imagine what we were exploring. Were we in a prison or a storage facility? In the end, it didn’t matter, and I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. Access is mostly unrestricted for the remaining structures, except where specific restoration is taking place.
Although we didn’t bring any food with us, I think the Fortezza would be a peaceful place for a picnic. It is possible, however, that our impressions of the site were influenced by the fact that it was off season. Even the Palace of Knossos, a major historical site, was pretty quiet in early March once we shook off the school group that entered at the same time we did.
After the large mosque, this tiny chapel was a real contrast. However, it was one of the few structures that wasn’t open for exploration. I’m sure it has an interesting story!
If you are in Rethymno, the Fortezza is well worth a visit. And, in high season, I suspect that there may be guided tours and other ways of understanding more about what you are seeing. But feel free to make up your own version, like we did!