Tag Archives: Alberta

Travel Flashback: 1983 Kingston/Hinton High School Exchange

(Kingston, Ontario. Canada)

I’ve been travelling independently for a long time. But it was still a bit of a shock to realize that my first independent trip was 40 years ago!

Surprisingly, this was the Edmonton Youth Hostel

When I was attending Bayridge Secondary School in Kingston (Ontario), my geography teacher enrolled our school in a program called “Open House Canada”. In short: for the princely sum of $10.00, you could go on an exchange with 40 of your schoolmates to another part of Canada. And then, a couple of months later (in early 1984), your new friends would visit Kingston. Having already been to Europe twice with my parents, I thought this would be great.

Wildlife on the side of the Icefields Parkway

Our school was matched with a similarly sized school in Hinton, Alberta. But our communities didn’t seem to have too much in common. Kingston was much larger and older than Hinton: Kingston was Canada’s capital many decades before Hinton even existed. Hinton’s economy was resource-based (I especially remember the smell of the paper mill), while Kingston has long been known as a government town. And Hinton was in the foothills of the Canadian Rockies, while Kingston’s geography was…a little less spectacular.

Rescuing a classmate who slipped on the Athabasca Glacier

And yet, despite all the differences, there ended up being quite a bit of common ground. We played lots of volleyball. We seemed to listen to much of the same music: Bob Seger’s “Old Time Rock and Roll” and Van Halen’s “Jump” seemed to be mutual favourites. And I think almost everyone appreciated the opportunity to see a completely different way of life, if only for a week or two.

My first ever visit to British Columbia (October 1983)

About half of the trip was spent living in your billet’s home (and going to school with them each day). My billet’s father was a park ranger, so I got to live in a remote village called “Old Entrance”. It apparently used to be the entrance to Jasper National Park. There were only three or four other houses in the village. Each morning, we had to hike up a very steep and winding gravel road for 15 minutes just to get to the school bus stop (which still had to travel some distance to get to Hinton). This was quite different from my leisurely 10-minute suburban walk to school in Kingston.

My billet, in his backyard

Once we were at school, we did day trips to notable area landmarks. Such local trips included a huge coal mine, a tract of commercially-harvested forest and the Cadomin Caves. Other destinations on the trip included Sunwapta Falls, the Athabasca Glacier, the summit of “The Whistlers” (high above Jasper), Mount Robson (see photo at the top of this post)…and the West Edmonton Mall!

Nearing the summit of “The Whistlers”, high above Jasper

Looking back on it now, it’s hard to believe that there was actually some peer pressure to *not* go on the exchange. While some parts were challenging (I vaguely remember some issue with the Jasper hostel, but the details are now lost in the mists of time), I don’t think anyone regretted their participation. I suspect that, for many of us, it was only the beginning of an appreciation for travel and for discovering places that were different from home.

The path down from the summit of The Whistlers

This reminds me of a famous Mark Twain quote, from his book The Innocents Abroad. It might be a little harsh, but I think there is some underlying truth to it:

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.

Jasper as seen from The Whistlers

I hope you enjoy some of these ancient photographs…all were taken by me using a very rectangular (and very non-digital) Vivitar camera. These are the original prints!

Last days of skiing in the Banff area

(Canmore, Alberta, Canada)

For the fourth day of skiing, we went a little further afield to the Lake Louise ski area. I went skiing there in 2019, and was looking forward to revisiting the “Traumpiste” that we found in the area’s back bowls.

My only picture from Lake Louise. And the longest lineup we had for the entire week.

Once again, we had a very intense day of skiing. We were quite tired at the end of it. This was partly due to the amount of skiing we did, but also the conditions. There was a blizzard, so we really had to focus on what we were doing (and keep our knees bent just in case we hit some unexpected bumps).

Richard pauses halfway through some off-piste glade skiing on Goat’s Eye Mountain (Sunshine Village)

I am pleased to report that the Lake Louise resort renamed the “Brown Shirt” piste that I found troubling in 2019. It was such a shame that this great piste had such a dismal name. It is now called “Brown Cow”. Alas, the poor visibility meant that skiing this steep, unmarked and ungroomed piste was somewhat less than ideal. We didn’t return for a second try, despite knowing that all the fresh snow would create amazing conditions once the visibility improved.

And this is where we just skied to get to that spot. Lots of deep snow!

Our favourite itinerary for the day turned out to be a couple of black-rated pistes (#59 and #12) close to the main gondola. The visibility was OK and there wasn’t much traffic on these steep and snowy pistes. Without blizzard conditions, I can see how these could get icy and unpleasant very quickly.

Deep woods right beside the lower part of the Goat’s Eye Mountain chairlift

The drive home was an adventure, as the roads hadn’t been properly cleared. I was glad that we were in a heavy 4WD vehicle,

View of Goat’s Eye Mountain, from Mt. Standish (Sunshine Village). Glade skiing location on far right, just above the denser woods and marked trails.

We intended to return to Lake Louise for the final day of skiing. However, the roads were still dodgy once we approached Banff that morning. Even worse, traffic was getting backed up because of the sheer number of people who wanted to go skiing at Lake Louise (no doubt because of the previous day’s blizzard). We made a quick decision to turn off Highway 1 at Sunshine Village and ski there instead.

“The Great Divide”, as seen from Mount Standish (Sunshine Village)

This turned out to be a great decision. While the skies were once again overcast, Goat’s Eye Mountain was relatively untouched for the entire morning. I can’t say how much mileage we achieved, but it was a lot. And the conditions were really good despite the gray skies. We even managed a bit of glade skiing in the trees (see photos above).

One of Canmore’s many wild rabbits

While the afternoon didn’t quite live up to the morning, I was still pleasantly exhausted at the end of the day. The TP Town lift still had good soul and reggae music, and the heated seats were most welcome as the temperatures dipped to around -8’C.

Looking the opposite way (from the top photo) on “my” street in Canmore, Alberta

I left Alberta the next morning, and of course the sun shone brilliantly in response. But I was still very happy with how the skiing turned out. It’s great to rediscover something that at one time seemed lost forever.

Downtown Calgary in the distance, as seen from the departures area of Calgary’s airport

But that’s not the end of the trip! Stay tuned for the details of a brief but very enjoyable stopover on my way back home!

Skiing at Banff/Sunshine Village

(Canmore, Alberta, Canada)

I’ve now completed three days of skiing at Banff Sunshine Village. The weather continues to be overcast and gray, but it really hasn’t affected my skiing enjoyment. I’ll take it over the -29’C temperatures I experienced the last time I was here!

Note the absence of a line-up for this chair lift (Sunshine Village)

Even though I have been active every single day of the pandemic, it often took the form of a walk or a relatively low-intensity sport. Hockey and soccer were severely curtailed. So I can’t overstate how good it feels to actually push myself to be seriously active for the entire day…multiple days in a row.

Typical skies this week above Sunshine Village

Although I have only skied for 3 days so far, it probably works out to be more like 5 or 6 “typical” days. There are only two of us skiing, lift lines are non-existent, and we ski at about the same pace…so we manage to get in a lot of runs. With the iffy weather, there also isn’t much incentive to linger over a beverage or have a leisurely al fresco lunch! While those things can also be enjoyable, it’s just not in the cards this year.

Naturally monochrome view from Mt. Standish, with Goat’s Eye Mountain to the left (Sunshine Village, Alberta)

At Sunshine Village, we spent most of our time in the “Goat’s Eye” area. There are basically two halves to Goat’s Eye Mountain (see photo above): the upper half is almost tundra-like, with fast, direct pistes. The bottom half is wooded, with terrain ranging from treed glades and mogul fields to steep powder stashes and leisurely cruising pistes. Our favourite piste this year was probably “Rolling Thunder”, which successfully combined a steep pitch with deep fluffy snow.

Delirium Dive at Sunshine Village: for adrenaline junkies only!

Sunshine Village also includes a couple of “hard core” areas for extreme skiers. Delirium Dive (access point pictured above) is one of them. You are not allowed to ski here unless you have avalanche equipment (digital avalanche transceiver, etc.) and a skiing partner with you. It’s rated a “double black diamond”, and the rating is certainly deserved. You can read more about Delirium Dive here.

Downtown Canmore, Alberta

We also spent some time on the areas serviced by the “Great Divide Express” and “TP Town” lifts. The TP Town chair lift is one of my favourites: not only is the music non-stop reggae (ideal for sports), but the seats are heated and there is also a “bubble” that you can pull down to shield yourself from the elements. The slopes are a little busier here, but my ski partner knows the area very well and was able to find hidden gems that the crowds completely ignored.

Downtown Canmore, Alberta (opposite corner from the previous photo)

Once again, my base for the week is the town of Canmore. I heard today that Canmore is the fastest-growing town in Canada. With the increasing popularity of telecommuting, more and more people are choosing to live here in the mountains rather than in big cities.

Stay tuned – I will be moving on to Lake Louise! Until then, here is a link to some highlights from the last time I went skiing here.

My first flight/skiing/journey out of Ontario since the pandemic started

(Canmore, Alberta, Canada)

The title says it all. On very short notice, I found myself on a plane to Calgary and about to do my first skiing since my trip to Morzine, France, in early 2020.

My worst photo ever – I think it’s tilted at least 45 degrees

I’m once again based in Canmore, Alberta, and spent the first day of skiing at Sunshine Village (just north of Banff). There was no real sunshine today, and usually my ski photos feature brilliant sun and blue skies, but I’ve decided to include the photos anyway. After two years, I was just so thrilled to be on the slopes that I want to document the occasion here!

Not much better – this “Welcome Back to Sunny Alberta” sign is maybe 100 yards past the “Welcome to British Columbia” sign. Note: it’s not actually sunny.

In one of those quirks of geography, a tiny sliver of the Sunshine Village ski area is actually located in British Columbia. I took the above two photos to document my very brief visit to B.C. today. Both were snapped whilst riding the chair lift into the grey misty abyss at the top of the resort. So, I have successfully proven that (ski mitts + movement + fog + wind) = objectively bad photos. I even managed to make an uphill chair lift look like it was going downhill!

Goat’s Eye area – Sunshine Village, Alberta.

I was kind of anxious about the flight to Calgary, as I hadn’t been on one for so long and quite a few restrictions were still in place. But once I printed out my baggage tag, it all seemed to fall into place and it really wasn’t that different from before. I just had to wear a mask for a lot longer than I’m used to doing, and people seemed to be just a little more cautious about personal space, etc. And I’m OK with that.

Random skier at Sunshine Village

Being on skis for the first time in two years also brought some mild trepidation. Would I still remember how? Would I still like it? Would the overcast weather lessen the fun? Would I be cold?

View of the older part of Sunshine Village, from the Goat’s Eye area

I needn’t have worried. It all came back fairly quickly, and I’m not even feeling that sore…despite maintaining a hectic pace for the entire day (and having a fairly short lunch to boot). It was a reawakening – finally being able to do something that had brought me so much joy before the pandemic. I still like the deep snow, I still relish the challenge of solving the slope, and I still love being out in the mountains. We kept on going until the lifts were closed, and we’re going back tomorrow for more.

Well, of course we had to try it…

More snow is in the forecast for the rest of the week, so I may not post *any* spectacular sun-dappled ski photos at all. But I’m still ecstatic to be here, and I admit that I’m already looking forward to the next trip…wherever it may be.

Lake Louise

(Lake Louise, Alberta, Canada)

Right before our first day of skiing, we visited the legendary Lake Louise (the village, the lake, and the hotel, but not the ski area…yet).

View of the lake, from Chateau Lake Louise

I’m sure every Canadian has seen multiple pictures of Lake Louise: the grand hotel overlooking the narrow mountain lake with snowy peaks in the background…it is an iconic Canadian sight.

Skating in front of the Chateau Lake Louise

And yet, it wasn’t exactly how I’d imagined it. I thought it would be at the bottom of a steep and narrow alpine valley.  But that would be wrong: it is actually located some distance up from the broad valley floor, on a winding mountain road.  

Only in Canada!

It actually reminds me quite a bit of St. Moritz, Switzerland…except that there is only one hotel (rather than hundreds) and it seems isolated even with hundreds of people enjoying the lake.

Hiking across Lake Louise

Anyway, it is definitely beautiful and there was plenty going on when we arrived.  There was a fully operational ice bar, a huge number of ice sculptures, multiple hockey games in progress on the lake, cross-country skiers darting to and fro, and many others just walking on and around the lake.  A horse-drawn sled was ferrying people around the coastal trail, while some fearless folks were climbing an ice waterfall. 

A climber ascending the ice falls at Lake Louise

As we were just visiting and not actually staying at the hotel, we chose to walk the length of the lake (about 2 km) and back, taking in the views and the general good cheer about winter.  It seemed like the right thing to do, given that the temperatures were more than cold enough for us to curse them.  Of course, the happiest creature we saw was a very photogenic husky.  Sadly, I didn’t take a picture!

Hiking alongside Lake Louise

Lake Louise (the lake, with the hotel) also turns out to be different from Lake Louise (the village) and Lake Louise (the ski area).  The village is on the valley floor, a couple of kilometers down from the lake, on the Trans-Canada Highway.  The ski area is even further from the lake, on the other side of the valley.  

Ice bar at the Chateau Lake Louise

The verdict:  yes, as you can see, it is definitely worth a visit.  I’m sure I haven’t seen the last of this famous lake…and hopefully, I will get back here at least once in the warmer seasons, so I can see the lake’s (apparently) mesmerizing colours for myself.  

Cross-Country Skiing in Canmore

(Canmore, Alberta, Canada)

After four chilly days on the alpine slopes, the temperature dropped even further. The overnight low was around -30’C. The visibility was iffy and there was also a cold wind. It would have been miserable on the lifts, even with Hotshots! We made an executive decision to skip our planned last day of downhill skiing and try an outdoor sport that keeps you a little warmer: cross-country skiing.

Me at the Nordic Centre “stadium”

Fortunately, I was in one of the best places in the country to do this: as I mentioned a few days ago, Canmore hosted the Olympic cross- country skiing and biathlon events at the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympics.  The facilities have been maintained and remain a competitive/training centre today.  Instead of just visiting, however, this time I was actually going to ski!

Richard races to the finish line

I haven’t done cross-country skiing regularly for about 40 years.  The equipment has changed enormously.  But the basics are still the same and it is just a little easier to ski uphill with the new “skins” skis.  

Skiing through the forest at the Canmore Nordic Centre

There was no way that we could have enjoyed skiing downhill today: the windchill was approaching -30’C, although the actual temperature was about -17’C at midday.   While cross-country skiing was also cold initially, I warmed up after about 15 minutes of work.  We decided to do a series of loops that didn’t take us too far from the base lodge, just in case .  Eventually, the main concern was not getting too hot, as the moisture could really make you freeze when you got cold again later. 

Richard overlooks the meadow

After a delicious lunch, we did another longer loop in the afternoon.  The forest trails were beautiful but my favourite spot was  a spectacular alpine meadow (see photo at the very top of this post), where you could really appreciate all of the mountains around us. The sun had graciously reappeared shortly after we started, and the wintry colours were intense.

Some of the many flags at the Canmore Nordic Centre (representing the countries that competed at the 1988 Winter Olympics)

I don’t say this often, but this was definitely a day where it was better to be off the slopes than on them.  We ended up skiing more than 20 km and fully deserved the Mexican meal we enjoyed that evening.  I certainly wasn’t expecting to drink horchata in Canmore, but there it was! 

The Canmore Nordic Centre

We made the most of our last full day in Canmore, and we could only laugh the next morning when the temperature dropped to a totally ridiculous -36’C (again, without the windchill!) on the way to the airport.

Coming up: another Alberta attraction!

 

My Coldest Skiing Ever?

(Canmore, Alberta, Canada)

I have now been skiing for two days in the Canadian Rockies.  Winter is ending in a few weeks, and it was reasonable to assume that temperatures would not be significantly lower than what I usually encounter during my March ski trips.  But that would be wrong.

-29’C on the car dashboard, en route to Lake Louise for skiing

Thanks to a Polar Vortex situation, the temperature en route to the Lake Louise ski resort (see photo at top of this post) reached an incredible -29’C.  While I know that it can often be much colder than that in Canada, it is not the kind of temperature commonly associated with sustainable ski resorts.  They even issued a frostbite warning!

Me and the distant Mt. Assiniboine (in British Columbia!), while skiing at Sunshine

Maybe it was just a one-off?  Well, it warmed up the next day to a relatively balmy -27’C on the way to the Sunshine (Banff) ski resort.  In fact, that day was probably more challenging: it felt even colder (perhaps due to the altitude) than it did at Lake Louise, and I had to return to the lodge after only two runs.  As the day progressed, I was generally able to complete three runs in a row before I had to restore some warmth to my frozen hands and face.

One of the “Back Bowls” at Lake Louise ski resort

But!  This is not a story of icy gloom!  It is, instead, a story of ingenuity and survival against the odds.  Yes, I have discovered an easy way to continue skiing, even in the most frigid temperatures.

Entering the Back Bowls at Lake Louise

Thanks to the automatic hand dryer, found in most public washrooms, you too can restore at least some temporary warmth to your hands and mitts (I don’t recommend this technique with feet, boots, or faces).  Simply find a washroom with an automatic hand dryer, and forego the unnecessary preliminaries of actually using the washroom or washing your hands.  Just let the toasty hand dryer work its magic, and you’ll be ready to face the elements once again. Trust me, it works!

Back Bowls at Lake Louise

Of course, this places some limits on your ski itinerary.  My hands also feel very dried out right now.  But desperate times call for desperate measures!

Lake Louise summit

Around 1:00 p.m. or so, on both days, the overhead sun did help out quite a bit.  And I’m certainly not complaining about the crowds: lift lines were non-existent, and we often had huge pistes all to ourselves.  But I do have to admit that unconditional alpine enjoyment took a bit of a hit over the past two days.

Empty pistes in the middle of the day at Sunshine (Banff)

Fortunately, temperatures are expected to rise for the next two days of skiing, so I hope to provide some substantive commentary on these two beautifully situated ski areas in my subsequent blog entries.  And, just in case, I will also be buying a couple of “Hot Shots” (hand warmers that I haven’t used since the 1990s) to put in my mitts on the last day of skiing…temperatures are expected to plunge once again by then.

Near the summit of Lake Louise

Canadian skiing isn’t always like this. Stay tuned to find out what it’s really like when the weather is not so much of a factor.

Ready to Ski in the Canadian Rockies

(Canmore, Alberta, Canada)

I wasn’t able to cross the Atlantic for skiing this year…but when one door closes, another one opens.  I am now in the Canadian Rockies for a week of skiing in and around Banff and Lake Louise!

For a mere C$12,500.00, this samurai armour and sword can be yours from a Banff souvenir shop

It is a trip of “firsts”.  I have never been to Calgary, Banff, or Lake Louise.  I have never been skiing in Alberta.  And I have a feeling that I am also going attain some other “firsts” on the slopes…at least from a ski conditions perspective!

Bow River Waterfalls. near Banff, Alberta

I believe that Alberta is currently in the midst of a “Polar Vortex” weather system.  Whatever the reason, it is VERY cold here for late February.  We actually decided not to ski today, as the overnight low was -28’C and the windchill this morning was a nippy -30’C.  However, I still had the chance to explore this spectacular setting, in preparation for our debut on the slopes tomorrow.  

The Banff Springs Hotel, as seen from the (mostly) frozen Bow River

 We started off by visiting some hot springs and then the famous Banff Springs Hotel (see photo at the top of this post):  another one of the iconic Canadian Pacific hotels that sprang up across Canada approximately 100 years ago. I’ve been to a few of these recently: you may recall my posts on the Manoir Richelieu and the Chateau Montebello in Quebec. 

It’s -20’C outside, but they are called hot springs for a reason

The Banff Springs setting is amazing, but so is the interior.  The architect must have had a great time designing the hotel, given the disorienting maze of hallways and rooms.   The exterior also lives up to the castle motif shared by many other CP hotels.  After our dizzying self-guided tour, we came across some very unconcerned deer on our way to the Bow River waterfalls.

Wild but totally unconcerned deer near the Banff Springs Hotel

For lunch, we agreed that a huge bowl of Thai soup would be an appropriate way to recuperate from the cold.  We then visited a famous destination that will eventually get its own post, and finished up our non-skiing day by exploring some of the sights around Canmore. 

Canmore Nordic Centre, venue for biathlon and cross-country skiing events at the 1988 Winter Olympics

Canmore is a former mining town that has made the transition to a sport and resort centre.  Our first stop was the Canmore Nordic Centre, home of the cross-country skiing and biathlon events at the 1988 Calgary Olympics.  It looked much hillier than it does on TV, and the hardy warriors on the trails were emerging with incredible icicle formations on their faces. And yet, they seemed happy enough to be there.

Ha Ling Peak, near Canmore, Alberta

We finished by exploring a little bit of the hinterland that was apparently the preferred site of the Canmore Nordic Centre, but building an Olympic-standard road to that location would simply have been too difficult and expensive.  Believe me, it was quite an experience being in such rugged terrain only a few kilometres outside of Canmore.

Spray Lakes, near Canmore, Alberta

I’m now fully acclimatized and ready to hit the slopes. Stay tuned for our Polar Vortex skiing debut!

Travel Flashback: Unusual Sights in East-Central Alberta (2013)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I took a lot of pictures at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village; I’ve included a few more here (including the picture above) that weren’t in my original post on that fascinating site.  There are many other things to see east of Edmonton, however.

The giant sausage monument in Mundare, Alberta
The giant sausage monument in Mundare, Alberta

Near Vegreville and its giant Pysanka, there is another rural community with a huge monument.  Mundare is neither as large nor as famous as Vegreville but it honours its roots with…a giant sausage!   It sounds a little peculiar but the biggest business in town is indeed Stawnichy’s Meat Processing, right on the main street of Mundare.  There was a substantial Polish and Ukrainian population in the area so Woytko Stawnichy established a small grocery store here in 1959 with one small sausage smoker.

Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village
Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

Over time, the sausage business prospered and became the focus of the Stawnichy family business.  To better service its loyal customers who now live and work in the big city,  there is even a Mundare Sausage House (and the associated Uncle Ed’s Restaurant) in the provincial capital of Edmonton.  However, the manufacturing facility and the heart of the business remains in tiny Mundare.  We didn’t go deep into the facility but were given some “Stawnichy’s Sausage” pins as souvenirs.  A tip and/or a warning, depending on how you feel about such aromas:  even the reception area smells strongly of sausage.

The Hilliard Hotel - formerly located in Hilliard, Alberta, and now in the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village
The Hilliard Hotel – formerly located in Hilliard, Alberta, and now in the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

I would have loved to see more of the giant “monuments” in Alberta., such as the world’s largest pierogi in Glendon, the world’s largest badminton racquet in St. Albert, the world’s largest bee in Falher, the world’s largest beaver in Beaverlodge, or the world’s largest golf tee in Trochu.   Seeing all of Western Canada’s strange structures could easily form the basis of a bizarre road trip.  As we needed to return to our home base in Camrose that evening, we reluctantly started to head back via the town of Viking,

Entrance to the "Viking Troll Park" in Viking, Alberta
Entrance to the “Viking Troll Park” in Viking, Alberta

Most Canadian hockey fans will recognize Viking as the home of the Sutter brothers.  Incredibly, six brothers from the Sutter family all went on to play professional hockey in the National Hockey League.   While Viking recognizes its claim to fame, the town is extremely quiet and otherwise typical of many other farming communities in this part of the province.  The name “Viking” comes from the large number of Scandinavian immigrants who settled here.   There is even a “Viking Troll Park”, pictured above.

Modern grain elevators at Viking, Alberta
Modern grain elevators at Viking, Alberta

In our ongoing mission to support independent restaurants, we found ourselves at the “Viking Burger Queen” for dinner.   It was by no means fancy but we quite enjoyed chowing down on some substantial pizzas after a long day on the road.

The "Viking Burger Queen" in Viking, Alberta
The “Viking Burger Queen”  (and part of our tank/truck) in Viking, Alberta

As I’ve mentioned in some of my previous posts, we are about to head out on another adventure.   We are visiting one of the extremities of Canada but will also be visiting another country during the trip.  Notwithstanding the very rough sailing experience described in one of my recent blogs, we will be braving the open seas once again to make this an international trip.  It just might be the strangest international trip you can make by boat from Canada.

Intrigued?  I expect to be posting a little more frequently over the next couple of weeks, although that will naturally depend on the availability of Internet access.   Stay tuned!

Travel Flashback: The Ukrainians in Alberta (2013)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After visiting the Northwest Territories, we stopped off in Alberta to visit family and do some wandering in the less-touristed areas east of Edmonton.

We had reserved a mid-sized rental car but we were in for a surprise when we arrived at the Edmonton Airport…there were no mid-sized cars left.  Our choice: a jeep or a “mid-sized” pick-up truck. As we rather like the protection that doors offer, we opted for the mid-sized truck.  “Mid-sized” for Alberta, perhaps, but absolutely gigantic to our urban Ontario eyes. Anyway, we certainly felt safe in what we affectionately called “the tank”.

Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village
Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

Having a vehicle allowed us the luxury of seeing some small-town sights:  public transportation is not terribly well-developed in Canada and rural Alberta is no exception.  On our first full day with the truck, we visited two Ukrainian-themed sights:  the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village, just east of Elk Island National Park, and the town of Vegreville.   We also visited some other small towns but I will save those for future posts!

This would have been from the very early days of Ukrainian settlement in Alberta
This would have been from the very early days of Ukrainian settlement in Alberta

We spent several hours at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village.  It is a collection of historic buildings from all over eastern Alberta that have been moved to a single location.  It is like you are in a typical Alberta village from the early twentieth century that has a sizable Ukrainian immigrant population.

It’s not just a bunch of relocated buildings, however.  Most of the buildings are “inhabited” by role-playing guides.  We could actually talk to the shopkeeper, the sergeant at the R.C.M.P. detachment, and the labourer at the grain elevator (see photo at top of post)…all of them remaining in character (and even speaking with Ukrainian accents, where appropriate) throughout.

A building supply store from the past (note the Ukrainian text) at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village
A building supply store from the past (note the Ukrainian text) at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

The churches were anticipated highlights, of course, reminding us of what we had seen in Finland and Estonia the previous summer.  However, we were equally as impressed by a couple of buildings on the outskirts of “town”.  One was a sod house, being an immigrant’s first Canadian home, while the other was a slightly sturdier and roomier house that might have been an immigrant’s second Canadian home.

Sod house at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village
Sod house at the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

Being inside the sod house was a real revelation for us.  Until then, it had been very difficult to visualize what immigrant life was like in Canada one hundred years ago:  most buildings surviving from that era belonged to established and relatively affluent Canadians.   Surviving in such a dark and damp house must have been incredibly challenging.  And we saw it in the summer:  how would it have been during the frigid Albertan winter with so little daylight?

A grocery store specializing in products for the Ukrainian community
A grocery store specializing in products for the Ukrainian community

After a lunch of perogies, sausage and cabbage, we drove east along the Yellowhead Highway to the town of Vegreville.  Small Alberta towns are known for their oversized “sculptures” that reflect the special features of that community.  Vegreville had a substantial Ukrainian population, so the decision was made to commission a massive Pysanka (Ukrainian Easter Egg) as part of the R.C.M.P.  Centennial celebrations in 1974.

The world's largest Pysanka (Vegreville, Alberta)
The world’s largest Pysanka (Vegreville, Alberta)

The Vegreville Pysanka is quite famous – it has even appeared on Canadian stamps and been visited by Queen Elizabeth II.  But it’s not just big:  it moves!  It also was quite a technical accomplishment, as the design was the first computer modeling of an egg.   While we didn’t stay in Vegreville for very long, it was still a nice way to “cap” our Ukrainian immigrant experience.

My next blog entry will focus on some other highlights (though not necessarily famous ones) of our Alberta visit.  In the meantime, we are busy planning for our international journey in July!