(Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina)
From Sarajevo, it is a 3-hour bus ride south through the mountains to the historic city of Mostar.
Like many communities in Bosnia & Herzegovina, Mostar is known to many people only as the scene of horrific fighting during the war of the early 1990s. It had a remarkable 400+ year-old bridge but that too was destroyed during the recent conflict. The bridge has since been rebuilt in accordance with the original design (see above) and using the same materials. Many hoped that this highly symbolic reconstruction would accelerate the patching up of relations between the former adversaries. I’ll return to this question later.
But first – some background information on the conflict in the Mostar area. At the beginning of the war, the Bosnian Serbs were essentially driven out of the city by the combined Bosniak (Muslim) and Bosnian Croat forces. However, conflict then arose between the Bosniaks and Croats. The Bosniaks controlled the east side of the Neretva River, while the Croats controlled most of the west side. In 1993, the worst year of fighting, the bridge was destroyed. The cemeteries are filled with those who perished that year.
Even after only one day here, it seems to me that Mostar was affected by the war even more than Sarajevo. Many buildings in the city still lie in ruins, although some tremendous restoration work has been done. The old town is an incredibly picturesque place, with narrow, twisting streets and stairways and bridges leading in all directions. The old bridge truly is something to behold – both as a sight to be seen from a distance and as something to cross. The views from the bridge itself are also spectacular.
There are quaint restaurants appearing all over the “tourist zone” – and, if you avoid one notorious area with great views but poor food, there are restaurants that even locals can recommend. It also is even cheaper than Sarajevo, although I think that many restaurants are still out of reach of the average local resident. As you can see from the photographs, there is a purely aesthetic reason that tourists are showing up here in increasing numbers.
However, Mostar is not as big as Sarajevo (the capital) and does not have as many foreign residents. There are fewer buffers and intermediaries. As a result, the “war reminders” that I described in my posting on the Sarajevo Siege seem even more intense here. Despite the undeniable beauty and the reconciliation efforts that have been made by both sides, one still feels tension. Of course, I just might be more aware of it now that I’ve been in the country for a few days.
As a result of this tension, I’m glad that I splurged a little on my accommodations. It’s very peaceful and relaxing, as I’m staying in a mansion that was originally built during the Ottoman period by a wealthy family. It is a “national monument” with impenetrable walls that started as a museum and subsequently became a hotel as well. My room is furnished (with original items!) as it was a century ago. There are “curtains” around my bed, oriental carpets, a ceiling intricately carved out of wood (!), and arches over each of my 5 windows. If you want to see more pictures and details, check out the website at http://www.muslibegovichouse.com.
