Tag Archives: Venice

Italian Leftovers

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

As I have chosen to write this blog in “real time”, some interesting topics and photos inevitably get overlooked because they weren’t at the top of my mind when I was writing my blog posts.   Before heading out to my next destination, here are some of those overlooked items from Italy.

This was my first visit to the enormously popular cities of Rome and Venice.  Even in March, the mid-day tourist crush in these cities could be quite daunting.  The best sightseeing moments were early and late in the day, when the group tours had left and quiet contemplation was possible.  This is probably true for all major tourist sights, but it becomes critical during the warmer months when crowds and confusion are much more uncomfortable.

Swiss Guards at St. Peter's Basilica (Vatican City)
Swiss Guards at St. Peter’s Basilica (Vatican City)

As they have been for hundreds of years, the Swiss Guards are entrusted with the protection of the Pope and the Vatican.  They really are Swiss and there is a competitive selection  process for young Swiss who wish to fulfil this role.

The Pantheon is probably the best-preserved building from the glory days of the Roman Empire.  Below is a temple built in the Forum nearly 2,000 years ago for a Roman power couple; it remains more or less intact despite many attempts to pillage it over the centuries.

Monument to XXX and YYY, The Forum (Rome)
Temple of Antoninus Pius and Faustina, The Forum (Rome)

Cortina d’Ampezzo has a reputation as a haven for the Italian glitterati but we were fortunate to find very affordable accommodation right on the main pedestrian boulevard.  The Hotel Montana (see photo at top of this post) was family run; in fact, the manager represented Italy several times in curling world championships…so he had a special affinity for Canada and Canadian curlers!

Even better, the hotel was right across from the bell tower that could be seen from anywhere in the surrounding mountains.  This really helped in orienting ourselves, as the Alps are notorious for distorting your perception of time and distance.

Basking in the sun, just below the Lagazuoi summit (Passo Falzarego)
Basking in the sun, just below the Lagazuoi summit (Passo Falzarego)

The weather in Cortina remained warm throughout the week.  While I prefer skiing in deep powder, I also enjoy skiing in slushy snow and being able to ditch the jacket (albeit briefly) was a fun little indulgence.  We encountered almost none of the ice that often plagues skiing in Eastern Canada.   As you can see, there  also were very few skiers on the slopes!

And just because it’s such a unique city, I think it is entirely appropriate to include another photo from the back “streets” of Venice.

Venice
Venice

I’m taking a break from the blog for a few days but will be posting again once I arrive at my next destination.  It’s actually not that far from Kingston but for some reason I (and many other Kingstonians) have never visited it.  Stay tuned for the details!

A Farewell to Venice

(Venice, Italy)

After leaving Cortina d’Ampezzo, I still had one day in Venice before returning to Canada.  One of my ski friends suggested that we visit the Palazzo Ducale (known in English as the Doge’s Palace), so we managed to squeeze that in before the palace closed for the day.

I hadn’t researched the Palazzo Ducale much, as I didn’t think I would have a chance to visit it…but I’m really glad that we did.  The palace was the headquarters of the Venetian Republic, which had influence and lands far beyond present-day Venice.   I had no idea that the Republic had so much wealth.

The palace tour started slowly, with some small but nice rooms in the Doge’s Apartment.  After viewing a few increasingly ornate rooms, we began to laugh as we entered each new one.  How could they possibly top the previous one?  But they did, in a dazzling spiral of opulence.  From the Apartment to the administrative “rooms”, the paintings, ceilings and carvings just kept getting bigger and bigger.  Finally, the largest hall was approximately the size of a hockey arena.  Looking from the street, we had no idea that such a space was inside the palace.  Sadly, photos are not permitted within the palace itself, so you’ll just have to take my word on this.  In addition to the building, there are some remarkable collections of maps, globes and antique weaponry.  I saw an old mural showing eastern North America; what is now Southern Ontario was described then simply as Iroquois lands.

Inside the Bridge of Sighs (Palazzo Ducale, Venice)
Inside the Bridge of Sighs (Palazzo Ducale, Venice)

Near the end of the tour, we also got to see the Venetian prison located adjacent to the palace and across a canal.  Leading from the palace courts to the dungeon-like prison was an enclosed arched bridge known as the Bridge of Sighs.   It was given this name because it is said that this was a prisoner’s final view of the splendours of Venice…which would cause the prisoner to sigh.

View from the Bridge of Sighs (Palazzo Ducale, Venice)
View from the Bridge of Sighs (Palazzo Ducale, Venice)

For our final dinner, we went to an enoteca (wine bar) in the Dorsoduro neighbourhood. Dorsoduro is slightly less touristy than the neighbourhoods around the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco; there were even a number of Venetians out and about. The enoteca was very atmospheric and the menu is rewritten by hand every day, depending on what is in season and what inspires the chef.

The Rialto Bridge (Venice)
The Rialto Bridge (Venice)

This was when the rain started. I can’t complain, as I was in Italy for 2 full weeks before there was any inclement weather. Even so, it was nice to experience rain in Venice because of the city’s constant battle with water.   Thinking back to an earlier comment about the smell of the Sistine Chapel, I now know what Venice smells like in the rain. It’s not a great smell by any means; it’s rather pungent and boggy.  But at least it is a real smell.  Venice may be inching closer to Disneyland status every year, as Venetians migrate away from the inconveniences of the island city and hotels fill the former homes, but Disneyland would never carry the whiff of a re-emerging swamp.

Another thing about Venice that really struck me as we wandered off the beaten path: the absence of the sounds of motor vehicles. No cars are allowed in Venice itself. We’re so used to cars and trucks in cities that Venice sounded almost medieval as a result. There are some motorized boats on the Grand Canal, but even these dwindle markedly after 5:00 p.m. when most of the tourists leave. Other old cities in Europe (Prague, for example) look the part, but I’d have to say that only Venice still sounds old.  Italy is indeed a feast for the senses.

View from the Accademia Bridge (Venice)
View from the Accademia Bridge (Venice)

Venice may be sinking, but it is still making fools out of tourists

(Venice, Italy)

I had seen the pictures and the videos.  I thought I knew what Venice looked like.  I thought I was prepared for the freakish sight of buildings rising out of the water, gondolas gliding on the canals, and exquisite bridges leading from one island to another.  But there is one thing that photos and videos cannot capture:  the feeling of complete disorientation when you try to navigate around this bizarre city.

I *thought* I had a sense of direction.  It totally abandoned me in Venice.  There is no grid of streets.  Well, there really aren’t any streets.  Just a disjointed series of short alleyways, blind turns, canals and bridges that never intersect at a proper 90′ angle.  And there are no  landmarks, except when you are on the coastline, because there is no way to see the landmarks when the “streets” are only a couple of feet wide and all of the buildings tower over you.  If you’re lucky, you’ll find a piazza (square).  But it is never a “square” and the “streets” leading away from it never go in a useful direction.

I tried.  I really did.  I even used multiple maps.  Even with maps (which I think are deliberately erroneous), however, you *still* are helpless.  It doesn’t help that every corner reveals a new “Kodak Moment” that makes you look up, around, and lose your bearings even more.  I took a huge number of pictures, thinking that I had stumbled upon the ultimate Venice vista.  Until I turned the next corner…

This happens during the daytime,  Nighttime is even worse, but it is also even more beautiful as the tour groups leave the city and the moon reflects off the water.  More pictures, more disorientation…

The Grand Canal, Venice
The Grand Canal, Venice

Yes, anything near the Grand Canal is probably a tourist trap.  Yes, it is expensive and hard to get to.  But I have never seen anything like it and it was exhilarating to repeatedly get lost in this unique city.  I’m so glad that I stopped here for a day before heading into the mountains.

One of the smaller canals in Venice
One of the smaller canals in Venice