Tag Archives: Finland

And the next destination is…

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

In my last post, I mentioned that I will soon be taking a very spontaneous and brief overseas holiday.  This was done using some frequent flyer points that I needed to use.   Read on for the big reveal!

Part of the fortifications at Suomenlinna (Finland)
Part of the fortifications at Suomenlinna (Finland)

I usually try to visit places during the “shoulder season”:  this ensures that at least some sights are open but also means that the crowds aren’t too bad and the prices aren’t too high.  Visiting Ireland in early June of 2014 was a prime example of smart shoulder season traveling.  However, for a November holiday in the northern hemisphere, pretty much everything is “off-season”.  Nonetheless, I am determined to make this work.

It won’t be easy.  Firstly, I am actually traveling even further north than my base camp of Kingston, Ontario.  This means that the days will be very short…I’m counting on darkness by 4:00 p.m.

Olympic Stadium in Helsinki, Finland
Olympic Stadium in Helsinki, Finland

Secondly, I’m quite sure the weather will be dreadful.  With temperatures probably hovering around 5’C, it will be cold enough to be uncomfortable (especially with the anticipated dampness) but not cold enough to have a delightful dusting of snow.

View from the top of the Olympic Stadium in Helsinki
View from the top of the Olympic Stadium in Helsinki

Thirdly, many of the sights (especially in the smaller towns) are closed for the season or have drastically reduced hours.  I found one that is only open from 11:00 to 2:00 p.m. each day!  This will require some serious planning and a lot of creativity.

Helsinki's waterfront
Helsinki’s waterfront

My arrival destination is something new and different for me:  despite having been to 30 European countries, I have never been to this one.  In fact, it is the only “western” European country (other than a few micro-states) that I’ve never visited.

So, despite some formidable obstacles, I am very excited to announce that my next destination is…Copenhagen, Denmark!  I’ve got some ideas to make the trip special; I’ve already got a ticket to a sporting event (in nearby Sweden) and will take advantage of the fact that Christmas is a pretty big deal in that part of the world.

Helsinki Cathedral
Helsinki Cathedral

Feel free to send me a private message (or post a comment on the blog) if you have any specific recommendations for this trip.  There’s nothing wrong with a little crowd-sourcing!  And don’t forget to check back here soon – it will soon be time for my Danish adventure!  In the meantime, this post is accomapnied by some previously unpublished photos from our 2012 trip to Helsinki, Finland.

Travel Flashback: Helsinki, Finland (2012)

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

After a very enjoyable trip to Estonia, we hopped on a ferry from Tallinn to the Finnish capital of Helsinki.

We only stayed for two nights in Helsinki before moving on to Stockholm, so I can’t pretend that we truly “experienced Finland” based on our brief stay in the capital.  However, we also felt very much at home there, possibly because both the climate and the landscape were so similar to what we have in Canada.

Sibelius Monument in Helsinki
Sibelius Monument in Helsinki

We bought a transit day-pass and traveled on what was essentially a “Hop on, Hop off” tram route that circled the downtown core and passed by all of the major sights.  We started with a tour of the Olympiastadion (Helsinki hosted the 1952 Summer Olympics); there was a great view from the top of the tower.

From there, we visited a monument to Jean Sibelius, probably Finland’s most famous composer.  I was not familiar with his music but the monument was still worth a look anyway.  We moved on to the Temppeliaukion kirkko (“Church in the Rock”), a very modern structure built (as the names suggests) right into a massive slab of rock.

Helsinki Cathedral
Helsinki Cathedral

Every tourist in Helsinki visits the Helsinki Cathedral and we weren’t about to break with tradition.  Despite its imposing exterior, it is very spartan on the inside:  there is no fussy ornamentation anywhere.  Sadly, we couldn’t compare it to the (Eastern Orthodox) Uspenski Cathedral as it was being used for a private function that day.   However, we did experience a bit of the Russian influence by visiting an interesting Russian bookstore (where I picked up a scary but fascinating collection of Soviet propaganda posters).  Helsinki is only about 300 km from St. Petersburg and it has been used on many occasions as a movie substitute for Soviet or Russian cities.

Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki
Uspenski Cathedral in Helsinki

The most enjoyable part of our visit was probably our trip to Suomenlinna, a sea-fortress complex (see photo at the top of this post) built on six islands just south of the city.  Ancient fortifications remain in place here and it is also the site of parks and al fresco restaurants.   We had fun climbing and exploring the ruins; in fact, we stayed much longer than expected and ended up eating dinner on the island rather than in Helsinki itself.  We even saw the last surviving Finnish submarine.

Climbing around Suomenlinna, just south of Helsinki
Climbing around Suomenlinna, just south of Helsinki

Finland’s long struggle for independence was quite evident at Suomenlinna.  Finland has only existed as an independent country since 1917:  for the previous century, it belonged to Russia…and it belonged to Sweden for the 6 centuries before that.  To this day, about 5% of Finns still speak Swedish as their first language.

The last surviving Finnish submarine (at Suomenlinna)
The last surviving Finnish submarine (at Suomenlinna)

I haven’t talked much about the food in Helsinki.  After the extremely low prices in Estonia, almost every Finnish menu induced a serious case of sticker shock and, as a result, we didn’t eat out very much.   This was perhaps a blessing in disguise, as we were taking an overnight ferry to Stockholm that included an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord!

Church in the Rock (Helsinki, Finland)
Interior of the Church in the Rock (Helsinki, Finland)

I’m really not a fan of all-you-can-eat buffets, but the one on this ship was excellent.  The food was of a very high quality and the price reflected the fact that you were expected to eat a certain amount of seafood, etc.  All drinks (including beer and wine, although these were dispensed from kitchen-sink-style taps and didn’t look very appetizing) were included too.  Sadly, we were so caught up in the experience that I forgot to take pictures!  Anyway, after a breakfast on board, we arrived in Stockholm the next morning and didn’t need to eat for a long time afterwards.

Records on the Road

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

Last Saturday was “Record Store Day” and we drove to Ottawa to see what was available in the record stores of our nation’s capital.  It reminded me of the interesting music I’ve picked up in my travels: each record has its own story, above and beyond the actual music.

The photo at the top of this post is one of my favourite finds.   For some unknown reason, the Soviet record label Melodiya decided to release a 4-track EP (7″, 33 rpm) containing seemingly random tracks from Paul and Linda McCartney’s 1971 “Ram” album.  When I was “crate-digging” in a Tallinn, Estonia used record store, I found this pressing from Riga (now in Latvia, but then part of the U.S.S.R.).  While I can’t speak Russian, I know the sounds of the Cyrillic alphabet and was able to phonetically confirm that this was in fact a release from the former Beatle.  I picked up some fascinating Soviet LPs there too…but I’ll keep the focus on 7″ records today, as they are easier to pick up while traveling.

A Czechoslovakian 7" single from Dean Reed, the "Red Elvis"
A Czechoslovakian 7″ single from Dean Reed, the “Red Elvis”

Speaking of the Soviet era, I picked up some fascinating 45s in Prague last September.  Some were just Czechoslovakian pressings of hits by Western artists but the Dean Reed 45 pictured above was something I would never find in Canada.

Dean Reed went nowhere in the U.S.A. as a singer and traveled the world in search of fame and revolution.  He ended up based in East Germany, where he was proudly paraded by the authorities as a genuine American rock star and revolutionary.  He did, in fact, enjoy immense popularity in the Eastern Bloc…at least for a while.  His ersatz-Elvis recordings sound rather hokey now but there wasn’t much else available.  Alas, he drowned under mysterious circumstances outside of East Berlin in the mid-1980s.  If you’re interested in his bizarre story, there is a book (“Comrade Rockstar”, by Reggie Nadelson) about Reed and it has long been rumoured that Tom Hanks would make a movie about this forgotten musician.

Karel Gott's "Beatles" single
Karel Gott’s “Beatles” single

Karel Gott also found success in the Eastern Bloc during the 1970s but, unlike Dean Reed, still enjoys some popularity today.  Like many people who lived during that difficult time, he made certain compromises in order to  preserve his career in a totalitarian state.  The above single does not feature the Beatles, but the A-side is a Czech-language tribute to the Fab Four (although it sounds nothing like them).   I found this single in the same grim record store that yielded the Dean Reed record.  Both were very cheap: I suspect it is because they come from a time that many people would like to forget.

Johnny Clegg's 1987 "Asimbonanga" single was not attracting attention in Helsinki
Johnny Clegg’s 1987 “Asimbonanga” single was not attracting attention in Helsinki

Johnny Clegg is one of my favourite musicians.  Best known in North America for contributing “Scatterlings of Africa” to the Rain Man soundtrack, he bravely led racially-integrated bands during the Apartheid era in South Africa and continues to release genre-crossing and thought-provoking records today.   I wrote about Johnny last year in this post.  Alas, it doesn’t appear that he is very popular in Finland:  I found the above French pressing of his “Asimbonanga” single in the bargain bin of a Helsinki record store.

Reality is stranger than fiction:  the Rutles "I Must Be In Love" single
Reality is stranger than fiction: the Rutles “I Must Be In Love” single

I never imagined that the above single could exist.  The Rutles were a Beatles parody band created by some Monty Python alumni and eventually were the subject of the brilliant rockumentary “All You Need is Cash”.  The soundtrack is also outstanding and highly recommended for Beatles fans.  The parody was so well-received in England that I found this single in a London record shop last November.  It was an unexpected souvenir of the same trip that took me to Abbey Road and various other Beatles landmarks.

Coming up next week:  I’m on the road again!  Using some accumulated Air Miles, I’m visiting a place that I somehow overlooked during my year of extended travel.  Stay tuned for the big reveal!