(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

It is ironic that this goodbye to a recently departed Kingston institution doesn’t actually contain a photo of that institution. But that is also in keeping with the rather sudden nature of its departure.

Darbar was an “Indian” restaurant in Kingston that quickly became my favourite. I put “Indian” in quotes partly because India is a land of many cultures and cuisines. When Darbar opened more than three decades ago, “Indian” was probably also shorthand for the Indian Subcontinent (which includes neighbouring countries such as Pakistan and Bangladesh).

Like many Kingstonians, I think my first “Indian” dining in Kingston was actually at Curry Village. But I kept coming back to Darbar, and in particular their Chicken Dhansak. This dish, of Persian origin, combined hot, sweet, and sour in perfect proportions. When I wanted to avoid garlic, I chose the vegetarian version instead – it used an appealing texturized vegetarian protein (TVP) that wasn’t marinated in garlic beforehand. And it was just as good. My wife had a similar affinity for their korma (chicken or TVP), which made “ordering Darbar” a frequent event.

I still have the Darbar phone number memorized. We ordered take-out from Darbar enough that they quickly began to recognize us on the phone…even double-checking that we were okay with some garlic in the marinated chicken when we didn’t go for the vegetarian Dhansak. And from what I have read from other Kingstonians over the past few months, we weren’t the only ones. They really remembered, and cared for, their customers.

Sadly, Darbar closed at the end of January. My understanding is that their rent was suddenly increased by around 60%. Unfortunately, ongoing redevelopment in that part of Kingston has pushed land prices way up, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see that block redeveloped as a high-rise.

We only learned of the upcoming closure with a couple of weeks to go. But the combination of my busy schedule and the overwhelming demand from other loyal Darbar customers meant that we couldn’t enjoy one final meal there. For now, I continue to hope that the rumours are true: Darbar may one day open again for take-out in a suburban location with lower rents. For now, though, it is life without Darbar.

So, if you have a favourite locally-owned and operated eatery “where everybody knows your name,” don’t hesitate to show your support for them. They may be facing financial pressures, as the restaurant business is notoriously challenging. Your support could help them through, and ensure that you will continue to receive the personal service that more corporate entities can rarely provide.

Today’s post is (mostly) illustrated with recent pictures from other local Asian restaurants where I have had good food and service. It’s not completely random – you could say that my experience with “Indian” food from Darbar was a gateway to trying other Asian food. And if Darbar should reopen in a new location one day, I will post about it here…with pictures!