Tag Archives: National Park

Missed Opportunities?

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From time to time, travel plans get disrupted. Today’s post is about plans that just didn’t work out!

“The Bean” in winter, downtown Chicago (an unplanned stand-in for Memphis, Tennessee)

In a February 2023 post about “Travel Regrets”, I mentioned a couple of plans that were thwarted. These included never making it to Memphis, Tennessee in March 2014, and the July 2016 visa issue that delayed our crossing from Chile to Argentina at a remote outpost in the Andes. Today’s post covers a few more examples.

North shore of Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

Weather has played a role in many of my missed opportunities. In August 2014, I had arranged to go on an extended wadlopen (a hike across the muddy sea floor during low tide) from the Dutch mainland to one of the Frisian islands. This day-long activity requires a guide…and also decent weather. Learning of the expected high winds and thunderstorms, the guide decided to pull the plug. While it was disappointing, I still managed to make it out the Frisian island of Schiermonnikoog by boat. And I went for a nice walk around the dunes.

Inside the “Los 36 Billares” billiards cafe (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Poor weather also prevented me from setting foot in Uruguay. During our stay in Buenos Aires, we had hoped to take a boat across the Rio de la Plata to the historic city of Colonia del Sacramento. But nasty weather forced us to back down from that plan and spend another day in Buenos Aires instead. Among other things, we ended up having enjoyable refreshments in a billiards cafe!

Specialty shop in Westport, Ireland. I went in for the vinyl but came out with a book!

Dismal weather also torpedoed my planned ascent of Croagh Patrick, a (relatively) large mountain just outside the quaint western Ireland town of Westport. Rain, wind, and clouds conspired to make that extended trek unpleasant and possibly dangerous. Instead, I explored some local Westport institutions, such as a quaint bookstore and the local “chippy”. It wasn’t the plan, but I still have the book I bought!

The Grand Canyon, on the “Day After”

Another more dramatic weather incident happened in 2019, when I was supposed to descend the Grand Canyon in northern Arizona. Not only did we not go on that much-anticipated hike, we couldn’t even leave our hotel. And the hotel was without power for 24 hours as the state was battered by a fierce blizzard. Unlike the other “missed opportunities”, there was nothing to take the place of the canyon descent. We were cold, unable to travel, and could do little more than ensure we had enough to eat. While we managed a brief visit to the Grand Canyon the next morning, there wasn’t enough time to try even a short descent.

Overlooking the Tara River Canyon – northern Montenegro

While weather jettisoned all of the above plans, nature wasn’t always to blame. During my May 2014 stay in Kotor, Montenegro, I signed up for a guided tour to Albania. I thought it would an interesting trip, as Albania had been so isolated before the fall of the Iron Curtain. Alas, I was the only person who was interested and the excursion was cancelled. A small group was interested in heading up to Durmitor National Park in northern Montenegro, and it seemed to be a reasonable alternative, so I decided to take that trip instead. While the tour guide’s driving was terrifying, I did end up seeing some little-known but spectacular scenery.

Looking straight down at the Tara River (northern Montenegro)

Even if things don’t work out as planned, they (usually) still work out in a different way…the great Grand Canyon Blizzard of 2019 being a notable exception! Sometimes the unplanned alternative even surpasses the original intention. But no matter the outcome, these missed opportunities give me a great reason to go back to some of my favourite destinations.

Trip Debrief…and revealing the next destination

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From the natural landscapes to the 24-hour loss of heat and power, there certainly was no shortage of drama on my recent trip to Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.

Antelope Canyon

Ultimately, however, the loss of power was just an inconvenience. We met people the day before who cannot connect to the electrical system at all, so that put our temporary loss into perspective.  It also reminded us how utterly dependent we have become on electricity.

Antelope Canyon

From a travel strategy perspective, I was thankful that I had journeyed to these relatively remote areas as part of a group. Having that additional level of support was quite helpful, even on the days when the power remained in force.  I will continue to use small group travel in situations where I don’t think I’m properly equipped to manage on my own if things go wrong.  Off-season travel to remote locations certainly falls into that category, even if there is no language barrier.

Antelope Canyon

Having said that, I am very much looking forward to my next independent adventure.  Later this winter, I will be skiing in countries that are very familiar, but in locations that are new to me. I’ll start by spending several days in and around Les Diablerets, Switzerland. This is in the French-speaking Canton of Vaud, just a few kilometres west of my 2018 ski adventure in Lenk.

Me, hiking determinedly in Zion National Park

From there, I will travel further west for a full week of skiing in Morzine, France. While I have been in France a few times recently (including a wonderful summer 2018 trip to Normandy and Brittany), I have never been skiing there. In fact, I have never been skiing in any French-speaking part of Europe…so far, my only French-speaking skiing has been in the province of Quebec.

Antelope Canyon

Morzine should be a great base. It is part of the vast (201 ski lifts!) Les Portes du Soleil ski region, linking thirteen resorts in both France and Switzerland. We’ll be able to ski back and forth between countries, not just villages!  Stay tuned for lots more on this exciting destination in the Haute-Savoie.

Antelope Canyon

I will end this post by mentioning one more benefit of travelling in a group: being able to get great photos! All of the photos in today’s post were taken by other travellers who graciously allowed me to use them in this blog. If you want to read more, you can check out these recent posts on Antelope Canyon (Arizona) and Zion National Park (Utah).

Redemption at the Grand Canyon

(Tusayan, Arizona, and Las Vegas, Nevada, U.S.A.)

As depressing as Friday night had been, something very special happened in the wee hours of Saturday morning: the now-24-hour-old power cut suddenly ended. I was happily jolted awake by the clank of the radiator, as it began an extended mission to restore warmth to my frigid room.

First glimpse of the Grand Canyon on Saturday morning

Unbelievably, the power and heat remained in force for the rest of the day. Our group now had some decisions to make. Although we were scheduled to visit the Lowell Observatory in Flagstaff, would we be prepared to forego that and get a real glimpse of the Grand Canyon? We unanimously voted in favour of the canyon. There was a chance for redemption!

Looking east from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon

The canyon did not disappoint. Although we did not have much time, we still saw what we came here to see: a vast snow-covered canyon stretching out for miles, and gleaming in the long-overdue sunlight. I walked quickly to the east, to get some different views of the South Rim before our bus had to leave. Our walk into the canyon itself had to be cancelled, but at least we were getting some idea of what it was all about.

View of the main observation area

We returned quickly to our bus, ready to continue on to the legendary Route 66. But fate was not done with us yet. A much larger bus had skidded off the narrow access road to the bus parking lot. It couldn’t gain enough traction to get back on the road. As a result, we were now stuck too, as there was no other (plowed) way out.

Generic Grand Canyon photo, with snow!

After almost an hour, the large bus had still not made any progress. We made the decision to drive across the unplowed parking lot to the also-unplowed back exit, and just hope that the deep snow didn’t strand us as well.

Snowy hike along the South Rim

Finally, we caught a break. We didn’t get stuck, and we could finally continue with our journey. For the first time in days, it felt like everybody would make their flights back home and/or be able to enjoy a final night in Las Vegas.

A stuck bus blocks the only cleared way out of the parking lot

Not so fast. Of course, we encountered more challenges on the way back to Las Vegas. The roads were still very snowy, and we had to be very careful on the highway. Then, Interstate 40 was closed because of an accident, so we had to drive far longer on the not-very-direct Route 66 than we had been anticipating.

Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona

Our stop in Seligman, the most photogenic local remnant of Route 66, lasted barely a minute. Even so, we still managed to get an idea of how life used to be before the arrival of the Interstates. Family-run motels, soda fountains, and gas stations looked like they hadn’t changed for 70 years.

Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona

It was dark by the time we finally arrived in Las Vegas. Although it is not among my favourite cities, I was still very happy to get there. Our group had one final meal together, and absolutely nothing strange happened. It was a perfect way to end what had been a rather challenging day and-a-half. But we had survived, and we had some great stories to tell!

“Setback” in Arizona

(Tusayan, Arizona, U.S.A.)

It is easy to write about the good things on a trip. It is not as easy to write about the things that go wrong. 

Arrival at the Grand Canyon on Thursday afternoon

We arrived at the Grand Canyon late on a Thursday afternoon. It was swimming in fog: we couldn’t see anything more than a few feet from the South Rim of the canyon. However, we weren’t too disappointed, as we would be staying in the area until Saturday morning. Some snow was predicted for the next day, but we figured that would only enhance the scenery (like the snow at Bryce Canyon had done a couple of days before).

First glimpse of the alleged Grand Canyon

When I woke up the next morning, the hotel room was cold.  And very dark.  The power was out. And yes, the heat was out too. I looked out the window: more than a foot of snow had fallen (see photo at the top of this post). This did not look good.

Best picture from Thursday – you can barely see the North Rim. Also a rare moment, with nobody on the usually-crowded observation deck

There were varying estimates on how long the power would be out.  The hotel could not serve breakfast, because the generators were needed to keep the hotel up and running at a minimal level. In fact, no restaurants anywhere in town seemed to be open. Not only were we cold, hungry, and without power, there appeared to be no prospect of an imminent return. The road to the Grand Canyon was closed.  And the snow continued to fall.

Looking down from the South Rim – you can see a large dropoff…sort of.

Interesting things happen when you are faced with no food, no heat, and no power.  All of a sudden, it’s changed from vacation to survival. Which explains why people jammed the only open business: a gas station with no power but some stranded staff. 

Preparing for the apocalypse in the gas station

What do you buy when this may be your only chance to get food for several days?  When a large part of the store consists of products in the “chips” category? And when you know that it will take more than an hour to check out, because the line-up is huge and the bills need to be calculated by hand? Making the best of a bad situation, I loaded up on trail mix, and hoped that the power would return soon.

The hotel parking lot, at about noon on Friday. The snow would continue into the night.

The walk back to the hotel was miserable, with high winds and even some freezing rain pelting my eyes. By Friday night, the gas station was closed, and power had still not returned. The roads into Tusayan remained closed too.  

One power-restoration deadline after another passed. With a nasty cold on top of everything else, this was not my finest hour. I’ve never worn a coat to bed, but there is a first time for everything.  You just don’t know how much colder it is going to get.

(To be continued)

Bryce Canyon – Dr. Seuss comes to life!

(Bryce Canyon, Utah, U.S.A.)

From Zion National Park, it’s not that long a drive to Bryce Canyon National Park. Just when you think you’ve left the bizarre geology behind, Bryce Canyon abounds with it.

First glimpse of the “Queen’s Garden” trail at Bryce Canyon

I didn’t really know what exactly to expect at Bryce Canyon. Well, the “Canyon” title was a bit of a hint, but I had no idea how it would differ from what we had seen at Zion. Sometimes, not knowing too much about where you are going is a blessing: it can make the “Wow” factor even more intense.

Off-season crowds in Bryce Canyon!

It was only a few steps from our parking lot to the canyon rim at Sunrise Point. A huge dropoff, of course, but the colours seemed just a bit more intense than I had seen before.  And the hoodoos were something else: random shapes reaching up to the sky…just like in a Dr. Seuss book. 

Near the bottom of the canyon

And it wasn’t just the shapes that were compelling. Recent snowfall had left a brilliant white frosting on it all. As you descended into the canyon, the contrasting colour from the vibrant evergreens created one “Wow” moment after another. In my continuing camera battery saga, I saw the battery warning light (for my new batteries) after less than an hour on the trail.  

Natural stone arch over the hiking trail

Just when I thought it couldn’t get any better, it was time to ascend the canyon to Sunset Point. The snow and ice made the already steep climb an even greater challenge. Of course, the greatest challenges usually yield the greatest rewards. Picture Lombard Street in San Francisco, the famous street that ratchets up a very steep hill. Stack a few of those on top of each other, and then add stupendously tall red pillars on either side, sparkling snowy trim, and a brilliant blue sky…it was one Kodak moment after another.

Near the top of “Lombard Street”, just below Sunset Point

I’ve had many memorable Alpine walks, but this one has to rank right up there with the best.  Once again, going in the off-season was a plus rather than a minus: the snow made it visually even more stunning, but the cool temperatures also meant the hike was manageable. And the crowds were nowhere near what they would have been in the summer. I’ll take the high winds and the occasional icy patch any day.

Absolutely stunning view just below Sunset Point

I’ve just picked a sample of the many pictures I took that day. Even with the limitations of my camera, there were many great ones that didn’t make it to this post. If you like the pictures, stay tuned: I’m sure more will pop up in the future!

Beginning the climb up to Sunset Point

Coming up: we veer south into the state of Arizona.

Zion National Park – Day 2

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Well, this was certainly an adventure! Our mission was to hike up a very narrow slot canyon (called “The Narrows”, of course) in the last week of November. And THROUGH, not beside, the water. This sounded crazy, especially with nighttime temperatures dipping below zero. But, thanks to science, it was still “mission possible”.

Even though the water level was not particularly high, there just isn’t enough room to walk on the side. Often, there is no room on either side. So, if you want to walk, you have to wade. And the water is often waist deep.

So why would you want to get soaked and remain that way for 4-5 hours? Well, the slot canyon is a unique geological feature, and what better way to appreciate it than by traveling through it? The walls can be up to 2000 feet high!

To deal with the cold and wet conditions and not get hypothermia, you need special equipment. Your upper and lower base layers are the same as you would wear for an ordinary (dry) walk. You then have to wear neoprene pants with a special “gasket” (rubber seal) at the ankle. This is to prevent water from going up your legs. You then wear two pairs of space-age foam booties, as well as special canyon walking boots that help walking over the slippery, rough, loose, and/or sharp stones on the canyon floor.

Your feet will get wet after a minute or two of walking. But, somehow, as long as you keep moving, your body heat manages to keep your feet warm. In fact, it’s better to walk in the water than to sit around outside of it. Add a walking stick, and you’re good to go! Just don’t fall in the water, unless you rented the full body suit!

I wish I could tell you about the specific places in the slot canyon. Alas, I was watching my steps carefully and only taking the occasional photo. Today’s pictures are all from that hike, in no particular order. The light was tricky, and 2000 foot walls are hard to photograph from the bottom, but hopefully the pictures give a good idea of what the trek was like.

Apparently, the neoprene is not necessary in the summer: walking the canyon is more of a way to cool off (assuming you have proper footwear), and hypothermia is not really an issue. Of course, the crowds are much more of an issue then!

Looking straight up from the bottom of the slot canyon

Bottom line: I didn’t even know this activity existed before this week. I was a bit afraid of the cold, but it all worked out. I’m even considering trying this myself sometime in Canada…what better way to truly experience a beautiful river?

This is our bus for the week. It is parked at our hotel in Springdale, Utah.

Stay tuned for more from Utah…things get even more unearthly!

Zion National Park – Day 1

(Springdale, Utah, U.S.A.)

Talk about culture shock! After the sensory assault that was Las Vegas, a couple of hours on the road took us to a much different kind of sensation at Zion National Park in southwestern Utah (photo above is taken from the main lodge area). 

These wild turkeys charged us, but thankfully did not hurt us

This is our first destination in a tour of the “Canyonlands” of the American southwest. While the weather started off overcast and soon turned to rain, we still managed to hike a few miles up and get a feel for the immense scale of the canyons in Zion.  It started off easy (see the photo below), but soon became much more difficult.

The climb begins!

Once the rain began, the visibility got worse and worse…and so did the strength of my batteries! It didn’t make for my finest series of photographs, but it was awesome even with the ever-present mist.  You can get an idea of the scale by looking at the size of the trees in some of the “rock face photos”.

This tranquil pool ends in a sheer cliff…don’t get too close!

The sheer walls of rock reminded me a bit of the Italian Dolomites in places, or possibly the North Face of the Eiger. It was also a bit like ski touring, where you have to pay your dues climbing up the mountain…and you then get rewarded by skiing down the thrilling terrain.  As with skiing, the hiking was much easier going down than going up. However, with the intense red earth (all over my hiking boots at the moment), the experience at Zion was completely different. 

One of the immense stone faces near the “Upper Emerald Pools”

Tomorrow will be even more of an adventure.  The weather is supposed to be clearer, and we are hiking up a canyon for several hours. But not just a path alongside the river! No, the canyon is too narrow for that. Instead, we will be hiking up the river itself, wearing special neoprene hiking gear.  Considering how cold it is here now (around zero degrees in the evening), we are certainly going to putting this special equipment to the test!

The cliffs get crazier as you climb higher…no camera can capture it all, especially with the mist!

Stay tuned to see how this all works out. The camera batteries have been replaced and I look forward to capturing some more of the splendour!