Tag Archives: Bariloche

Missed Opportunities?

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

From time to time, travel plans get disrupted. Today’s post is about plans that just didn’t work out!

“The Bean” in winter, downtown Chicago (an unplanned stand-in for Memphis, Tennessee)

In a February 2023 post about “Travel Regrets”, I mentioned a couple of plans that were thwarted. These included never making it to Memphis, Tennessee in March 2014, and the July 2016 visa issue that delayed our crossing from Chile to Argentina at a remote outpost in the Andes. Today’s post covers a few more examples.

North shore of Schiermonnikoog (Friesland, the Netherlands)

Weather has played a role in many of my missed opportunities. In August 2014, I had arranged to go on an extended wadlopen (a hike across the muddy sea floor during low tide) from the Dutch mainland to one of the Frisian islands. This day-long activity requires a guide…and also decent weather. Learning of the expected high winds and thunderstorms, the guide decided to pull the plug. While it was disappointing, I still managed to make it out the Frisian island of Schiermonnikoog by boat. And I went for a nice walk around the dunes.

Inside the “Los 36 Billares” billiards cafe (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Poor weather also prevented me from setting foot in Uruguay. During our stay in Buenos Aires, we had hoped to take a boat across the Rio de la Plata to the historic city of Colonia del Sacramento. But nasty weather forced us to back down from that plan and spend another day in Buenos Aires instead. Among other things, we ended up having enjoyable refreshments in a billiards cafe!

Specialty shop in Westport, Ireland. I went in for the vinyl but came out with a book!

Dismal weather also torpedoed my planned ascent of Croagh Patrick, a (relatively) large mountain just outside the quaint western Ireland town of Westport. Rain, wind, and clouds conspired to make that extended trek unpleasant and possibly dangerous. Instead, I explored some local Westport institutions, such as a quaint bookstore and the local “chippy”. It wasn’t the plan, but I still have the book I bought!

The Grand Canyon, on the “Day After”

Another more dramatic weather incident happened in 2019, when I was supposed to descend the Grand Canyon in northern Arizona. Not only did we not go on that much-anticipated hike, we couldn’t even leave our hotel. And the hotel was without power for 24 hours as the state was battered by a fierce blizzard. Unlike the other “missed opportunities”, there was nothing to take the place of the canyon descent. We were cold, unable to travel, and could do little more than ensure we had enough to eat. While we managed a brief visit to the Grand Canyon the next morning, there wasn’t enough time to try even a short descent.

Overlooking the Tara River Canyon – northern Montenegro

While weather jettisoned all of the above plans, nature wasn’t always to blame. During my May 2014 stay in Kotor, Montenegro, I signed up for a guided tour to Albania. I thought it would an interesting trip, as Albania had been so isolated before the fall of the Iron Curtain. Alas, I was the only person who was interested and the excursion was cancelled. A small group was interested in heading up to Durmitor National Park in northern Montenegro, and it seemed to be a reasonable alternative, so I decided to take that trip instead. While the tour guide’s driving was terrifying, I did end up seeing some little-known but spectacular scenery.

Looking straight down at the Tara River (northern Montenegro)

Even if things don’t work out as planned, they (usually) still work out in a different way…the great Grand Canyon Blizzard of 2019 being a notable exception! Sometimes the unplanned alternative even surpasses the original intention. But no matter the outcome, these missed opportunities give me a great reason to go back to some of my favourite destinations.

Flashback to Argentina

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

The 2022 World Cup ended last week, with Argentina winning the final over France. While I have mixed feelings about the tournament, the final match was highly entertaining.

The Arc de Triomphe, overlooking l’avenue des Champs-Élysées, after France won the 2018 World Cup

As I was in Paris in 2018 when France won the previous World Cup, I thought it might be nice to take a look back at our 2016 trip to Argentina.

We finally made it to the Argentinian border!

Argentina is a huge country, so our brief visit barely scratched the surface. And we were there in the middle of the Argentinian winter, which meant snow around Bariloche and lots of cool temperatures and fog in Buenos Aires. We did not get the feeling that this was high season for tourism. But we nearly didn’t get there at all!

A winter rose in front of the customs office in Puerto Frias, Argentina

We were travelling with a small group, and approached the Argentinian border on a complicated bus & boat route through the Chilean Andes. Alas, due to a missing bar code for my wife’s visa, we were left behind at a remote hotel while the rest of the group crossed the border without incident. We didn’t get clearance to proceed until the next day, and even that was a near-miracle.

View of Puerto Blest, Chile, from across the lake

Anyway, despite all that, we really enjoyed the lakes and mountains around the Argentina-Chile border. And with the benefit of six intervening years (not to mention a worldwide pandemic), even the border hassle doesn’t seem that bad now.

San Telmo by night, just outside the tango venue

We spent most of our Argentina time in the capital, Buenos Aires. My lasting impression is how European it looked: the buildings looked very Parisian, and there was an Italian vibe everywhere. I guess this shouldn’t be surprising: many Argentinians (including current soccer hero Lionel Messi) have Italian ancestry.

Teatro Colón, in the heart of Buenos Aires

We saw a lot of the major sights: Recoleta Cemetery, the Eva Peron (“Evita”) Museum, the San Telmo Market, the Teatro Colón…and even went to a spectacular tango show.

View from “our” box at the Teatro Colón (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

We stayed in Buenos Aires for a few extra days after our group dispersed. We also covered a lot of terrain on foot, and enjoyed a number of unexpected surprises. For example, we really enjoyed a billiards cafe, which is not something we would seek out (or find) here in Canada. We found an outstanding bookstore that used to be an opulent theatre. And we found a great local restaurant that did *not* specialize in obscene amounts of grilled meat.

Locro at La Cumana (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

Despite our jam-packed itinerary, there are still a few things that we weren’t able to do. We didn’t make it to a soccer game, as it was out of season. This was unfortunate, as going to soccer games is often a part of our international travels. I still haven’t been to one in Latin America.

The German Shepherd “sat” on the bench with his owner for at least 15 minutes (Buenos Aires, Argentina)

And we didn’t make it to Uruguay. We had hoped to make a day trip to Colonia del Sacramento, a historic Uruguayan city that was only about an hour away by boat. But our potential travel day was very rainy and cold, and we thought it might be better to focus on urban (and indoor) things that day.

Inside Los 36 Billares, a billiards cafe in Buenos Aires

But that’s one of the cardinal rules of travel: don’t try to do everything in one trip. Assume you will return one day, and you’ll already have a head start on that future itinerary.

1st floor of El Ateneo bookshop on Avenida Santa Fe, Buenos Aires

Speaking of future itineraries…I have been thinking about this a lot lately. It’s complicated, there are many competing considerations. But what would I do if I suddenly had an open calendar and no restrictions? Stay tuned for lots of interesting content as we move into 2023!

A very brief stay in Bariloche

(Bariloche, Argentina)

Travel is a series of trade-offs. You can’t do everything…and sometimes the unplanned and chaotic can be just as rewarding as a carefully curated itinerary.

The loneliest Chilean police station - somewhere between Peulla, Chile and Puerto Frias, Argentina
The loneliest Chilean police station – somewhere between Peulla, Chile and Puerto Frias, Argentina

As you can tell from my past two posts, we had a sensational day of travel from Peulla to Bariloche. Our friends in the group tour did not have quite the same experience when they made that trip a day earlier in windy and rainy conditions. However, while we were catching up to them under the brilliant Andean sun, they were able to enjoy the resort of Bariloche in that same great weather.  You win some, you lose some.

Waiting for the boat at Puerto Frias, Argentina
Waiting for the boat at Puerto Frias, Argentina

I had hoped to go skiing in Bariloche: it’s been a long-shot dream of mine to ski on every continent and South America would have been the 4th.  Alas, we had to move on to Buenos Aires the very next morning and it was logistically impossible for me to do any skiing in Bariloche.  Well, this now gives me an even better excuse for a future trip to Argentina and/or Chile. There is so much to see and do in these two countries; we could not hope to get more than just a small sample in less than two weeks.

A winter rose in front of the customs office in Puerto Frias, Argentina
A winter rose in front of the federal buildings in Puerto Frias, Argentina

We did at least have a chance to visit downtown Bariloche for a group dinner at the Familia Weiss restaurant.   As you can tell from the name of the restaurant, there is a very strong German-speaking history in this part of Argentina.

Feeding the seagulls en route from Puerto Blest to Puerto Pañuelo, Argentina
Feeding the seagulls en route from Puerto Blest to Puerto Pañuelo, Argentina

Starting in the mid-1800s, immigrants from the various German-speaking nations in Europe found their way to this part of South America.   Their influence lives on in the Germanic cuisine, the alpine architecture, and the many chocolate makers who continue to compete for the tourist dollar.  I hadn’t expected to eat Gulasch mit Spätzle in the shadow of the Andes…but why not?

Time for selfies at La Cascada Los Cántaros near Puerto Blest, Argentina
Time for selfies at La Cascada Los Cántaros near Puerto Blest, Argentina

While we would have liked to spend more time in the mountains around Bariloche, we were assured that we would love our next stop:  the legendary city of Buenos Aires.  It’s a huge place with about 14 million people…and, at the end of the 19th century, it was one of the richest cities in the world.  While the city and the country alike have faced many challenges since then, those long-ago glory days are still very much apparent today.

One does not go home hungry from Argentinian restaurants: a typical dessert in Bariloche
One does not go home hungry from Argentinian restaurants: a typical dessert in Bariloche

Upon arrival at the Jorge Newbery airport, we were whisked to our hotel in the southern part of the Recoleta barrio.  Over the next few days, we would visit various barrios and get a feel for the different characteristics of each one.   Stay tuned for lots of coverage of this fascinating, if atypical, South American metropolis!

On to Bariloche!

(Bariloche, Argentina)

What a difference 24 hours can make!  After gaining entry to Argentina, the sun shone even brighter and we felt like we were truly on holiday again.  The picture at the top of this post shows the view from the back of our boat as we sailed on Lago Frias from Puerto Frias to Puerto Alegre.

Our boat docked in the glacial waters at Puerto Alegre, Argentina
Our boat docked in the glacial waters at Puerto Alegre, Argentina

Arriving in Puerto Alegre, the glacial nature of the lake became even more apparent.  I’ve been to mountain lakes before but I don’t think I’ve ever sailed on any that looked as pure as this one.  There really wasn’t anything but a dock in Puerto Alegre…but what else do you need with a setting like that?   Truly spectacular.

View of Puerto Blest, Chile, from across the lake
View of Puerto Blest, Chile, from across the lake

From Puerto Alegre, we took a bus to Puerto Blest on Lago Nahuel Huapi .  Puerto Blest had a hotel but little else:  once again, the natural setting was the highlight.  Here, we had the option of going for a hike at a nearby waterfall.  I instantly accepted – it would be great to stretch my legs after a half-day of traveling.  It was another pristine location…and we actually went there by boat too!

A tree that lives for millennia
A tree that lives for millennia

The hike up beside the Cascada de Los Cántaros was quite easy…it was a wooden boardwalk all the way to the top!   It seems to be a very popular activity for day tours, so I suppose that it makes sense for the trail to be so accessible.  There are numerous viewpoints along the way where you can take pictures of the waterfalls.  While I’m not going to include any of those in this post, they will likely appear later.

This tree will not live for further millennia
This tree will not live for further millennia

At the top of the trail is a 1500-year-old tree as well as a mountain lake shimmering almost-too-brightly in the midday sun.   Struggling with the glare, I did the best I could with my camera.   Still, after the rain and worry of the previous day, I was hardly in a position to complain about the sunshine.

Blinded by the light! Summit of the trail at Lago Los Cantaros
Blinded by the light! Summit of the trail at Lago Los Cantaros

As I had some extra time before the boat returned to Puerto Blest, I wandered off on a more natural trail through the woods.  It wasn’t part of the itinerary but it was fun to explore the terrain with my hiking boots fully on the ground.  I found a picturesque hanging bridge passing over the famous waterfalls after only a few minutes of walking.  Even though I was the only person on it, it was rather shaky and I have no reason to doubt the sign’s warning about its limited capacity.

A hanging bridge, off the beaten path
A hanging bridge, off the beaten path

From Puerto Blest, we sailed across Lago Nahuel Huapi onward to Puerto Pañuelo and finally finished our epic odyssey across the Andes with a short bus ride to Bariloche.  The boat trip was rather cool (some would say bracing) but, of course, it was the middle of the Argentinian winter and the sun was beginning to set.  We were grateful for the clear skies and the great scenery, although this was a bigger lake and it wasn’t quite as dramatic as what we saw around Puerto Alegre.

We finally arrived in Bariloche just before dinner and happily reunited with our group.  Stay tuned:  we’re only just getting started in Argentina!