After any significant sports competition, I prepare a “debrief” that captures my impressions and learnings from that event. I decided to do the same for this trip…my first significant international trip in four years.
Photo time on the Maulerhubel (above Winteregg, Switzerland)
Firstly – and I don’t think I can overstate this – I am so lucky to have a connection to Switzerland. And it doesn’t get old. I know I’ve taken hundreds (if not thousands) of pictures in Wengen, Grindelwald, and Mürren over the years, but I never tire of taking even more photos in this truly beautiful setting.
More photos…this time at the top of the Gimmeln lift (above Gimmelwald, Switzerland)
And while the slopes in the Zweisimmen area may lack the sheer size that you see at Wengen, it is still special to be there too. Knowing that my ancestors lived on (and worked) these mountains creates a special bond that I don’t feel anywhere else. It is only enhanced by knowing that I am related, however distantly, to many of the area residents!
The fearsome Birg lift station (top left), high above Mürren, Switzerland
But the mountains are only part of it. Beyond the natural beauty is something that doesn’t depend on where you are. Ironically, because holidays tend to be rushed, that something is…time.
View from our lunch spot at the Schilthornhütte, high above Mürren, Switzerland
In the inevitable extended periods of travel, whether by plane or by train, there is time to just…think. I used to think that “dead” time like that was just a necessary evil. But now I think it’s a blessing in disguise because, in our (hectic) daily lives, how often do we get a chance to just think deeply? This trip was great for that.
The ski posse having lunch at the Schilthornhütte…I took the previous picture from where my orange jacket is visible
The “deep thinking” isn’t just about the spectacular Swiss setting. It can be about almost anything. Part of the “deep think” is appreciating all of the great things about home.
Looking from the Schilthornhütte towards the Schilthorn summit (which we would soon visit)
Another part of the “deep think” is prioritizing the opportunities that lie ahead. Prioritizing is something that’s hard to do when you’re running from one thing to the next. But things can become much clearer when you have no cell phone, no internet connection, and no daily living concerns. This is when you discover your true passions and what is truly important to you.
Every direction you look, there’s a spectacular view (Mürren, Switzerland)
So, while I was naturally sad that my time in the mountains had come to an end, I felt energized by (and truly focused on) what was still to come. And isn’t that a perfect way to end a holiday?
Skiing down from the upper Mürren slopes to the lower Mürren slopes requires going through this narrow chasm. It is notorious for difficult conditions. But it is also a thrill to navigate!.
I’ve always found the last 24 hours of a vacation to be the most challenging. Especially after skiing in the spectacular Berner Oberland, it is very difficult for the last (urban) stop to compare favourably.
Hotel Wartmann in Winterthur, where I stayed on my last night in Switzerland
Ventilator Records in Winterthur, where I did some browsing before turning my mind to dinner
I settled on Winterthur, a city of about 110,000 people that is just about as close to Zürich’s airport as Zürich itself. I had never been to Winterthur before, and hoped that seeing something new might change the last day dynamic somewhat. I found a convenient hotel with good weekend rates…and a good breakfast!
The pedestrian-only Marktgasse in Winterthur, Switzerland
I really can’t complain about Winterthur. It seemed quietly prosperous, in an understated Swiss way, and at times resembled a scaled-down version of some of Zürich’s nicer parts. I felt completely safe walking around after dark and near the train station, which can’t be said for every city in the world.
The Stadtkirche in Winterthur, Switzerland
Exploring a new place did help a little bit. But, in the end, I just didn’t have enough time to get to know Winterthur and develop a rapport with it. Many of the shops had closed relatively early on Saturday and wouldn’t reopen until at least Monday. It seemed like the picturesque old town was relatively empty…and, to be fair, there was a (sold out) professional soccer match in Winterthur that afternoon.
Obere Kirchgasse in Winterthur, Switzerland
But, as you can see from the photos in this post, the overcast skies didn’t help. The light was flat, and reminded me of the not-so-scenic days of low visibility on the slopes. I imagined that the many cafés and restaurants would create a dynamic street scene in more favourable weather. While a few diehards were out on patios, it still seemed kind of forced.
Something a little different on Neustadtgasse in Winterthur, Switzerland
I still enjoyed the afternoon. I found an interesting record shop in an “up-and-coming” part of the city that probably used to be quite industrial. At a grocery store, I bought some Swiss items that I wouldn’t be able to find in Canada. I gathered some snacks for the upcoming long trip home. I scoped out some restaurants, with the intention of having one final truly Swiss meal that evening.
A couple of nice-looking restaurants in the “Graben” (Winterthur, Switzerland)
I found a restaurant (Restaurant zur Sonne) that seemed to be sufficiently Swiss. I even reprised a meal from earlier in this trip: Älplermagronen und Suure Moscht. This is essentially super-deluxe macaroni and cheese, served with a cold apple cider. It was solid and undoubtedly Swiss. But it couldn’t stop the inexorable progress of time. As I finished the last few bites, I knew that the trip was now over. It was now just about going home.
Everything seems “just so” in Winterthur!
Afterward, I took a photo of the restaurant from the street. However, it was already dark and the resulting picture will never make any Top Ten list. I’ve included it anyway, as it turned out to be the last photo of my trip.
Restaurant zur Sonne – I had my final Swiss dinner here, in the second floor restaurant (Winterthur, Switzerland)
I managed to get a good night’s sleep and a satisfying breakfast at the hotel. It’s funny how the trip home seems to take so long…and how much more noticeable the various delays seem to be. Even the usually efficient Zürich airport seemed to be struggling. But finally, after a long flight (no business class upgrade this time), and what seemed like an even longer wait for my luggage, I walked out the front door of Toronto’s Pearson Airport. I was now back home. My 2024 Swiss adventure was over.
But wait! There’s more! I’ve saved some Swiss mountain photos and some closing thoughts for another post…coming soon!
It’s not an outdated stereotype. Switzerland *is* expensive. But not necessarily in the ways you’d expect, and there are ways to mitigate it somewhat.
The mighty Eiger looms high above the Gummi lift
First of all, lift tickets in Switzerland are still cheaper than lift tickets in the big North American resorts. This is because skiing is not just a sport for the wealthy in Switzerland. It has traditionally been thought of as a middle-class family activity. This “accessibility” has its limits, though…Zermatt, for example, is now creeping up to North American price levels.
A very bright moment between Männlichen and Kleine Scheidegg
If you can, bring your own ski equipment. Many airlines will take a ski bag at no extra cost. Swiss ski rental costs have skyrocketed in the last few years. I always bring my ski boots from home, but renting skis is no longer the relative bargain it used to be. This partly results from high Swiss wages. There is labour involved in preparing rental skis, and that cost is partly borne by the renter.
Hut at the base of the Tschuggen T-bar
Similarly, restaurant prices can give you a serious case of sticker shock. Even though taxes and tip are included in the price, it still is quite an adjustment (despite the post-COVID price bump we saw in Canada). Unlike much of Canada, Swiss restaurant employees are paid a living wage. This is great but, as with ski rentals, it is reflected in the price to the consumer.
Looking out over the Lauterbrunnen valley, from the Black Rock piste
One option is getting a half-board hotel room. This means that both breakfast and dinner are included in your room rate. You may not have much choice on the menu, but it is usually much more economical than eating a la carte at restaurants outside your hotel. When you have half-board, you only pay extra for the beverages you consume at dinner. At the Hotel Bellevue in Wengen, we had great five-course meals every night at 7:00 p.m. It was no problem to get cleaned up in time for dinner after a long day of skiing. Eating in your hotel also saves you the time involved in deciding on and getting to/from a restaurant.
This was our table for the week at the Hotel Bellevue in Wengen. What a great view to have every morning!
Also, with buffet breakfasts, you can eat quite well and not need an expensive lunch. Lunch on the slopes can easily be just a bowl of soup (generally served with bread), which is much cheaper and quicker than having a heavy entree. Fortunately, Swiss mountain restaurants are not exorbitantly priced. They are private undertakings that must also be sustainable with a non-skiing clientele during the rest of the year.
Appetizer on Day 7 at the Hotel Bellevue. Pastetli (vol-au-vent) filled with wild mushrooms, on top of a cheese fondue sauce
Consider going vegetarian in Switzerland. Main courses without meat, or with minimal meat, are significantly cheaper than those with meat. And if you must eat meat, avoid things like steak. They are obscenely expensive and, in my non-expert opinion, not all that Swiss. Eat local specialties… largely meat-free local options likeRösti and Älplermagronen are both tastier and easier on your wallet.
View from the Eigergletscher
As for hotels, go with family-run hotels that offer a solid breakfast (and no frills). Don’t be a star snob: even a one- or two-star Swiss hotel is going to be far cleaner and more comfortable than you would expect. The stars mostly refer to the frills, not the basic quality and comfort. And the food in a locally-run hotel is more likely to be affordable too. There’s no need to pay for a major chain’s advertising budget.
One of the restaurants (and a lot of crows) at Kleine Scheidegg. We didn’t eat here.
Finally, travel costs are heavily skewed in favour of locals. They can buy various passes that really drive down costs. Tourists who are only here for a week aren’t so lucky. Do your research…if you can stay for at least two weeks, you might be able to find a pass that cuts your ground transportation costs too. Or try to visit places that are close to an international airport. Geneva or Zurich are within Switzerland itself, but don’t forget about major international cities like Milan (Italy) or Lyon (France). Airfares to those places are often much cheaper than airfares to Swiss destinations. And if your ground transportation is mostly outside Switzerland, that saves money too.
Another view of the Eiger. It’s very easy to take pictures of it from the Männlichen area!
There is still more to come on Switzerland! (All of today’s pictures are ones I didn’t use in my previous post about skiing at Wengen.)
I hadn’t planned to visit Lyon on this trip. But, as you may recall, I found a great flight deal here from Montreal. I suspect that late February is not a particularly high-demand time for that route. And that came in handy a second time!
Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse
Many airlines now allow you to bid for an upgrade to a higher class, if there are empty seats in their premium economy or business classes. I was booked into economy on this trip, although I had selected an exit row seat for the extra leg room. Even so, I still find the ever-shrinking seats in economy class to be very uncomfortable (especially if the flight is full). It’s not just the leg room: shoulder room is scarce too! Add to that the loss of a night’s sleep, and it’s not the best way to start off a European trip…especially one that is going to be very active.
Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse
All this means that I was particularly interested in bidding for an upgrade to business class on this trip. The lie-flat seats can accommodate someone who is 6’6″, so even I can fully stretch out in them. There usually is a minimum bid for such an upgrade, but even that was reduced by 25% on this flight. I figured that was a good sign too. I decided to bid just a tiny bit more than the revised minimum, and was fairly confident I would succeed. And I did!
This passage in Lyon was filled with very specialized (and/or very posh) shops
Some things to remember: while you get access to the business lounge before departure (with all the free food and drinks you can handle), they don’t let you in until 3 hours before departure. Also: my flight to Lyon arrived earlier than expected. It was barely 7 hours. That cuts down on sleeping time, as meals are served at the beginning and end of the flight. Business class travel actually makes a longer flight more desirable!
I didn’t ride the Ferris wheel in downtown Lyon…maybe I should have?
Anyway, here I am in Lyon. Given Lyon’s culinary reputation, I stopped by Les Halles de Lyon – Paul Bocuse. It is an indoor food market named after Lyon’s most famous chef, and quite close to my hotel. As you can imagine, the offerings tend to toward the swankier end of the decadence spectrum. And regardless of the product, the displays are spectacular too. Take my word for it – you will know when you are near a cheese vendor.
This very ornate Lyon carousel must be from the 19th century
From there, I crossed the Rhône river to what I’m going to call the “Belle Epoque” part of Lyon. Not the truly ancient Vieux-Lyon, but the prosperous Presqu’île district. It’s full of grand boulevards and grand buildings, with a lot of luxury brands from all over the world. From a shopping perspective, it’s certainly not what I was looking for. But I managed to find a FNAC record shop in a suitably attractive building, and I now have a musical souvenir from the trip!
You don’t see many record shops like this anymore (Lyon, France)
As I really only have one “discretionary” meal here in France’s food capital, I wanted to make it worthwhile. So, I did some research on special options that I could walk to from my hotel. I found something that ticked all the boxes for me: a family-run restaurant that has developed an outstanding reputation for quality food from the “old country”…in this case, Lebanon and Syria. The reviews were gushing, to say the least. Perhaps more importantly, I didn’t see any bad reviews either.
Olfactory extravaganza!
Watch for my next blog, when you’ll find out whether this local favourite lived up to its fabulous reputation!
My previous post focused on the packing list. But there are many other things to think about as departure day approaches. Here are some of them…
Inside the walled town of Kotor, with some of fortifications visible above the city.
Every ounce counts when you’re packing. So, if you’re bringing along items such as shampoo or toothpaste, take a container that is already half-empty (but will still last for your entire trip).
My “hotel” in Kotor – my room is on the third floor (with open shutter)
Depending on where you’re travelling, you might want to consider registering with your home country’s foreign service. In Canada, that would be Global Affairs. You can tell them where you are going and when. This could come in handy if the local situation gets unstable while you’re there.
Lower part of the walls above Kotor, Montenegro
You can also let your credit card company know about your trip, so that any foreign purchases aren’t irrationally declined. However, some credit card companies are now refusing to record such information, as they claim that their algorithms will detect anything suspicious.
Overlooking the Tara River Canyon – northern Montenegro
Speaking of credit cards – consider paying off your balance (and then some) in advance. This might save you money if you should ever require a cash advance on your credit card, because interest gets charged on cash advances right away. But you should always have multiple strategies for dealing with any unexpected expenses.
Climbing the walls above Kotor
Consider getting a little of the local currency before departure. The rates charged at airport exchange booths are usually very unfavourable, and you may not see any other options when you first arrive. Don’t be fooled by boasts of “no commissions” or “no fees”. Those are already built into the exchange rates, even if they aren’t listed separately. If you see a gap of 10% (or more!) between the buy and sell rates, you know that the currency trader is doing very well indeed.
View from my lunch table, overlooking the Bay of Kotor (Dobrota, Montenegro)
Learn your duty/customs limits before you leave on your trip. These are different for every country, and are affected by how long you are away, so don’t rely on others to know which limits apply to you when you return home.
Black Lake, Durmitor National Park (Montenegro)
For overnight flights and/or flights longer than 7 hours, don’t forget to check your airline’s upgrading offers. You can sometimes successfully bid on (or outright buy) an upgrade at a far lower price than you would have paid at the original time of purchase. If your flight is not close to full, and it is not on a route favoured by business travelers, you may well succeed! Paying a little extra for a good night’s sleep can be a great investment, especially when you are going to be very active shortly after arrival.
Durmitor National Park, northern Montenegro
Today’s photos are from my 2014 travels in Montenegro. I have no real reason for that, other than the fact that I hadn’t seen them in a while! It’s a small but very beautiful country.
As spontaneous as travel can be, it’s a lot easier to be spontaneous when you’ve done the proper planning. Once I’ve selected a destination, I usually have three stages of preparation. The first stage is booking flights and other long-haul travel. I did that several months ago for this trip, and you can read about it here.
Skiing the Matterhorn is pretty special! Zermatt, Switzerland (see also photo at top!)
The second stage is planning accommodation. It’s hard to do this too early. Rates generally don’t fall as the dates approach (and hopefully my own plans don’t change) but, just in case, I try to book only fully refundable accommodation. This takes some work. Sometimes the same hotel has very different rates (and availability) depending on whether you book directly, go through the local tourist office, or use booking sites like booking.com or hotels.com. Of course, booking early makes even more sense if you *must* stay in a particular place…as is usually the case on a skiing trip.
Madonna di Campiglio, Italy
The third stage, and the focus of this post, is my customized packing list. This is very important. And believe it or not, I take my packing list with me. It came in very handy on my 2014 trip to Champagne where some of my luggage was lost by the airline. It was very easy to prepare an itemized list of what was lost, since I already had it in my pocket!
Sestriere, Italy
I have separate packing lists for ski trips and non-skiing trips. My ski list has been evolving since the 1990s, as I figured out what worked and what didn’t. I keep each list and dig it out the next year as a starting point for the new list. A reliable list is essential because taking excess stuff is both expensive (through baggage fees) and exhausting (because you have to carry it everywhere). I generally bring my ski boots to Europe: it avoids dodgy/ill-fitting rental equipment, blisters, and a poor skiing experience. However, they are also bulky. This means I’m already at a packing disadvantage.
Whistler, British Columbia, Canada
When I’m making my list for a particular trip, I need to know two things: (1) what activities am I doing each day, and (2) will I have access to laundry? With that information, I can ensure that I will (1) have the right clothes for each day, and (2) run out of wearable clothes on the last day of the trip. OK, maybe one extra pair of socks and underwear, but that’s it. If I’m in a country with stores, I can always buy more clothes in an emergency.
Zurs, Austria
Outer layers (pants, sweaters) must be worn multiple times…if not, I can’t justify bringing them. Distinctive colours? No…if I need colour, I have blue jeans. Otherwise, I mostly stick to greys and blacks because they don’t clash with anything and it’s hard to damage them if I’m doing laundry. Also – they are less susceptible to stains. And I don’t take any expensive clothes – it’s not worth the risk of loss or damage.
Skiers on the Forcella Staunies piste, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy
I must also know the electrical system of the place I’m visiting. The U.K. and Europe have different voltages than Canada…and from each other! But on top of that, Switzerland often has a extra prong that can thwart generic European adaptors. I have quite a collection of adaptors in my travel closet.
Scuol, Switzerland
The packing list ensures that I don’t forget anything if I run out of time before departure. I put even the most mundane things on the list (passports, the shoes I’ll wear when I leave) because you just never know if you will get distracted at the wrong time.
Between Champery, Switzerland, and Avoriaz, France
And I don’t leave the packing list itself to the last minute. I try to make it about two weeks before I leave. I’ll be thinking clearly, because I won’t be stressed out yet by all the other things I need to do. A well-written list means that packing itself can be done in less than an hour on the day before I leave.
Bracing myself against the fierce winds at the top of the Oukaimeden ski resort in Morocco’s Atlas Mountains
Today’s photos are just random ski photos from places I *won’t* be skiing at this year!
My last overseas trip seems like it was ages ago. In reality, it was less than four years ago (March 2020) that I went skiing in Les Diablerets, Switzerland, and Morzine, France. But so much has happened since then.
The fearsome Swiss Wall, on the Switzerland/France border in the massive Portes du Soleil ski region (March 2020).
A global pandemic would be the most obvious intervening factor. But there have also been changes in travel philosophies and a personal reconfiguring of priorities. I did manage to ski in Banff in 2022, but otherwise I haven’t been on the slopes. And other than a brief trip into northern New York, I haven’t been outside of Canada since March 2020 either.
Me and my friend, the skiing “Milka chocolate” cow – near Les Gets, France (March 2020)
This has been quite a change for me. I used to ski in Europe every winter and spend every other summer vacation in Europe too. And of course there was my travel sabbatical in 2014, which prompted the creation of this blog. That year, I tackled my travel bucket list and went to Europe no less than six times.
Our ski group passing through the rocks at Pomedes (Cortina d’Ampezzo – March 2014)
So when I made the decision to ski in Europe this winter, I had to ask myself a lot of questions. Which country (or countries) should I visit? Do I try to go somewhere new? Do I return to some old haunts? Am I travelling on a budget? Will I do anything besides skiing?
Skiing by torch light down to Grindelwald (March 13, 2000)
It didn’t take long for me to realize that much has changed since early 2020. Most notably: the dramatic price increases for flights and hotels. It dawned on me that I probably wouldn’t be resuming annual ski trips to Europe. And my choice of destination was likely going to be influenced by where airfares and accommodation prices were most competitive.
Me skiing on the lower slopes of the legendary Eiger (March 2002)
I made the decision to stick with places that had special meaning for me. And so, when I found a good hotel deal in Wengen, Switzerland, I jumped at the opportunity. I’ve skied in Wengen and the linked resort of Grindelwald many times before. Not only is the skiing excellent, but I think the surrounding scenery might be the very best in any ski area anywhere. If you’ve never seen the Eiger up close (or been skiing on it!)…it is beyond spectacular. And then there’s the Jungfrau, the Schilthorn (known for James Bond and “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”)…
Looking down on Wengen from the cable car – March 2005 (skating rink and curling hall at top left)
All of that is amazing. And then Wengen itself is a car-free village perched on a cliff overlooking the famous Lauterbrunnen valley…reachable only by a special cog-wheel train. For an overall skiing experience, I don’t think it can be beat. Zermatt is bigger, and it has the Matterhorn, but I feel most at home in Wengen.
Stretching above the clouds, high above Wengen and Grindelwald, in March 2005
Trying to book my flights was a very long bout of sticker shock. I had to summon all of my tricks to find a reasonably priced itinerary that also had direct flights from Canada. On a relatively short trip, I couldn’t afford to miss flight connections (or luggage).
Ho-hum, just a midway station on the way up to the Schilthorn…
Finally, after hours and hours of trial and error, I found something that worked at an acceptable price: I would fly outbound from Montreal direct to Lyon, France, and then return home by a direct flight from Zurich to Toronto. Unusual? Yes. But it’s out of necessity: my flight costs are always increased by the need for additional leg room…and the airlines are experts in extracting every conceivable additional charge.
This way to everything! On the France-Switzerland border, March 2020.
I am excited about starting my trip in Lyon. It’s the “second city” of France, and yet people rarely talk about it as a destination. It has a beautiful old town, a reputation for great food, and is less than an hour from the Alps. And I’ve never been there. What a great way to begin!
View from my hotel room in Geneva, Switzerland (March 2020) – I’ll pass through here again this winter after visiting Lyon
I had a few days to allocate between my stays in Lyon and Wengen. In the end, I went with another sentimental choice. The Swiss side of my family is from the Simmental (Simme Valley), so I happily booked a few nights in the town of Zweisimmen (literally, where two branches of the Simme River meet). This also allows me to ski for a couple of days in the Gstaad ski region, where I have been skiing a few times with friends and family.
Skiing above Zweisimmen at Parwengesattel (March 2018)
The skiing around Zweisimmen is not quite as dramatic as Wengen, but the region has the added bonus of being my ancestral home. And you can’t put a price on that. What better way to visit my roots than by doing something I love? And I have to say that skiing is my favourite way of experiencing the mountains…no matter which mountains I’m visiting! That’s why most of this trip will be spent skiing rather than “touristing”.
My grandfather’s chalet (straight ahead) in Weissenbach, Switzerland (August 2006), just a couple of kilometers from Zweisimmen
So, that’s the trip. It has some very meaningful skiing, and also some interesting new destinations before and after the skiing. I’ll keep the last stop a mystery for now. Besides – all my hotel bookings have free cancellations, so I still have time to change my mind!
One consequence of being the photographer for my travel blog is that I don’t appear in many of the pictures. However, the pandemic has led me to discover some stashes of photographs taken by others. Today’s blog features photos (and a video!) taken by my friend during a 2013 ski trip to Val Gardena, Italy.
Happy to be here!!
What strikes me most about these pictures is how happy I/we look. It is such a privilege to spend time in the beautiful Dolomite mountains of northern Italy. I see no worries in anybody’s face! (And while I feel some nostalgia for those recently-retired orange ski boots, I don’t miss that heavily-stickered white helmet.)
Group shots are always a challenge!
On trips like this, there is so much to discover. New mountains, new pistes, new food, new culture…even, in the case of Val Gardena, a language (Ladin). It may sound corny, but I hear the voice of Louis Armstrong as I type this: “…and I think to myself, what a wonderful world…”
My best photobomb ever. Sorry, Richard!
This trip (which also included a brief visit to Verona, Italy, as well as some skiing in Stuben, Austria) was my last European trip before I started this blog in early 2014. As I mentioned in an earlier post about Val Gardena, it really can be liberating to just live in the moment and not worry about capturing every aspect for publication.
Sometimes you just have to stop and look!
Having people in the photos can also emphasize our insignificance. Time and time again, we stopped to look up in wonder at the hugeness of nature. The Alps don’t really care about the tiny structures and the artificial borders created by people!
We never get tired of skiing in Italy
Seeing myself in locations all over the Sella Ronda series of interconnected resorts reminds me of just how much movement is involved in an intense ski week. And I’m also reminded of how much I love to move! In a pandemic, it’s really hard to maintain that level of activity.
Hard at work on a future blog?
I’m not sure what prompted Richard to record the following video. Maybe it was just a beautiful sunny day? I remembered a “skiing in a blizzard” video that he gave me right after the trip (I loved that one, and you can see it here on YouTube), but I had completely forgotten about the one that appears below. Although they’re very short, they immediately bring me back to when they were created 8 years ago.
Sunny cruising on the lower slopes at Val Gardena
Every year since 2013, I have thought about returning to Val Gardena. Each time, my ski posse and I decided to try a new resort. But when I look at all the pictures (these are just a sample of the hundreds that exist), I still think it would be really nice to return. The world is too big to see and experience everything. Why not return to an acknowledged “happy place”? It’s going to be really hard to resist the pull of Val Gardena once international travel is possible again!
I recently reviewed the photos from my 1991 backpacking trip through Europe. It was the same kind of extended post-university trip that new graduates have been doing for decades.
Downtown Trier, Germany (June 2, 1991)
While I have posted about a portion of this trip before, I was struck by some of the people in the pictures and how clearly I remembered them nearly 30 years later. And not just their names…although I will refrain from using their names here. Since personal connections are an important part of travel too, I thought I’d talk about some of the events that I shared with people I have never seen (or heard from) since.
The Roman Amphitheatre (circa 100 A.D.) in Trier, Germany (June 2, 1991)
Virtually every night was spent in a youth hostel, so it was natural that I would meet others doing the same thing. My first hostel night was in Trier, Germany, where a nice young German couple joined me for dinner and gave me some tips on the sights in the area. This set the stage for some memorable experiences later in the trip.
Benny, my uncle’s Dachshund – Riehen, Switzerland (June 3, 1991)
By the time I got to Zug, Switzerland, I was getting good at the whole hostel thing. There, I met a couple from Vancouver, as well as a teacher from Australia, and we decided to hike together the next day. We walked on the newly established “Swiss Path” around the Vierwaldstättersee: we saw where Switzerland was born exactly 700 years before (see photo at the very top of this post).
Leading the cattle through downtown Zuoz, Switzerland (June 11, 1991)
But the defining moment with my new friends was eating in an Italian place in Zug. It wasn’t a traditional restaurant, it was more of a club for the local Italian community. Anyway, the menu was mostly in Italian with a few (all too brief) German translations. I couldn’t quite figure out one of the pasta dishes, but my friends told me they thought the main ingredient was wild mushrooms. Well, it was a wonderfully spicy tomato sauce, and the “mushrooms” sure were chewier than any mushrooms I’d had before. About halfway through, after some worried whispering between the couple, I was told “Sorry, I think those are clams”. Still, I guess that’s how you overcome unfamiliar food: don’t find out what it is until it’s too late!
View above St. Moritz, Switzerland (June 11, 1991)
Another interesting adventure was in Zell am See, Austria. After getting off the train from Innsbruck, I dutifully headed to the local hostel. Imagine my surprise when nothing remained except a charred pile of bricks: it had burned down a few days before. Now I was in a bit of pickle! However, a group of 5 Swedes arrived at that very moment. They were on the very same train, and wanted to stay at the very same non-existent hostel. We decided to tackle our problem together.
Swedish picnic at Areitalm, above Zell am See, Austria (June 16, 1991)
We managed to find a place that would rent a “suite” to the three Swedish young ladies, and another “suite” to me and the two Swedish young men (who both had the same first name). They were all active people, so I joined them the next day for tennis and a picnic on the mountainside above town. It was fun being Swedish for a day, and foreshadowed other positive Swedish experiences in the future. When I finally made it to Sweden 21 years later, I found the vibe very comfortable. Stockholm was one of those places where I said “I think I could live here”.
On the Kohlmarkt in Vienna, Austria (June 20, 1991)
I eventually made it to Vienna, where I met a backpacker from Vancouver with energy to spare. We decided to tackle Vienna together: dinner at a very famous Schnitzelhaus, and then we managed to get cheap standing room tickets for a performance at Vienna’s State Opera House (Wiener Staatsoper). For those keeping track, the opera was “Elektra”, by Richard Strauss. This was the kind of unique experience that you might not try on your own, but seems much easier when you’ve got company. I made it back to Vienna, albeit briefly, in 2014.
Street market on Rakoczi Blvd. in Budapest, Hungary (June 24, 1991)
From the natural landscapes to the 24-hour loss of heat and power, there certainly was no shortage of drama on my recent trip to Nevada, Utah, and Arizona.
Antelope Canyon
Ultimately, however, the loss of power was just an inconvenience. We met people the day before who cannot connect to the electrical system at all, so that put our temporary loss into perspective. It also reminded us how utterly dependent we have become on electricity.
Antelope Canyon
From a travel strategy perspective, I was thankful that I had journeyed to these relatively remote areas as part of a group. Having that additional level of support was quite helpful, even on the days when the power remained in force. I will continue to use small group travel in situations where I don’t think I’m properly equipped to manage on my own if things go wrong. Off-season travel to remote locations certainly falls into that category, even if there is no language barrier.
Antelope Canyon
Having said that, I am very much looking forward to my next independent adventure. Later this winter, I will be skiing in countries that are very familiar, but in locations that are new to me. I’ll start by spending several days in and around Les Diablerets, Switzerland. This is in the French-speaking Canton of Vaud, just a few kilometres west of my 2018 ski adventure in Lenk.
Me, hiking determinedly in Zion National Park
From there, I will travel further west for a full week of skiing in Morzine, France. While I have been in France a few times recently (including a wonderful summer 2018 trip to Normandy and Brittany), I have never been skiing there. In fact, I have never been skiing in any French-speaking part of Europe…so far, my only French-speaking skiing has been in the province of Quebec.
Antelope Canyon
Morzine should be a great base. It is part of the vast (201 ski lifts!) Les Portes du Soleil ski region, linking thirteen resorts in both France and Switzerland. We’ll be able to ski back and forth between countries, not just villages! Stay tuned for lots more on this exciting destination in the Haute-Savoie.
Antelope Canyon
I will end this post by mentioning one more benefit of travelling in a group: being able to get great photos! All of the photos in today’s post were taken by other travellers who graciously allowed me to use them in this blog. If you want to read more, you can check out these recent posts on Antelope Canyon (Arizona) and Zion National Park (Utah).
