Tag Archives: Vienna

The people you meet while backpacking

(Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

I recently reviewed the photos from my 1991 backpacking trip through Europe. It was the same kind of extended post-university trip that new graduates have been doing for decades.

Downtown Trier, Germany (June 2, 1991)

While I have posted about a portion of this trip before, I was struck by some of the people in the pictures and how clearly I remembered them nearly 30 years later. And not just their names…although I will refrain from using their names here. Since personal connections are an important part of travel too, I thought I’d talk about some of the events that I shared with people I have never seen (or heard from) since.

The Roman Amphitheatre (circa 100 A.D.) in Trier, Germany (June 2, 1991)

Virtually every night was spent in a youth hostel, so it was natural that I would meet others doing the same thing. My first hostel night was in Trier, Germany, where a nice young German couple joined me for dinner and gave me some tips on the sights in the area. This set the stage for some memorable experiences later in the trip.

Benny, my uncle’s Dachshund – Riehen, Switzerland (June 3, 1991)

By the time I got to Zug, Switzerland, I was getting good at the whole hostel thing. There, I met a couple from Vancouver, as well as a teacher from Australia, and we decided to hike together the next day. We walked on the newly established “Swiss Path” around the Vierwaldstättersee: we saw where Switzerland was born exactly 700 years before (see photo at the very top of this post).

Leading the cattle through downtown Zuoz, Switzerland (June 11, 1991)

But the defining moment with my new friends was eating in an Italian place in Zug. It wasn’t a traditional restaurant, it was more of a club for the local Italian community. Anyway, the menu was mostly in Italian with a few (all too brief) German translations. I couldn’t quite figure out one of the pasta dishes, but my friends told me they thought the main ingredient was wild mushrooms. Well, it was a wonderfully spicy tomato sauce, and the “mushrooms” sure were chewier than any mushrooms I’d had before. About halfway through, after some worried whispering between the couple, I was told “Sorry, I think those are clams”. Still, I guess that’s how you overcome unfamiliar food: don’t find out what it is until it’s too late!

View above St. Moritz, Switzerland (June 11, 1991)

Another interesting adventure was in Zell am See, Austria. After getting off the train from Innsbruck, I dutifully headed to the local hostel. Imagine my surprise when nothing remained except a charred pile of bricks: it had burned down a few days before. Now I was in a bit of pickle! However, a group of 5 Swedes arrived at that very moment. They were on the very same train, and wanted to stay at the very same non-existent hostel. We decided to tackle our problem together.

Swedish picnic at Areitalm, above Zell am See, Austria (June 16, 1991)

We managed to find a place that would rent a “suite” to the three Swedish young ladies, and another “suite” to me and the two Swedish young men (who both had the same first name). They were all active people, so I joined them the next day for tennis and a picnic on the mountainside above town. It was fun being Swedish for a day, and foreshadowed other positive Swedish experiences in the future. When I finally made it to Sweden 21 years later, I found the vibe very comfortable. Stockholm was one of those places where I said “I think I could live here”.

On the Kohlmarkt in Vienna, Austria (June 20, 1991)

I eventually made it to Vienna, where I met a backpacker from Vancouver with energy to spare. We decided to tackle Vienna together: dinner at a very famous Schnitzelhaus, and then we managed to get cheap standing room tickets for a performance at Vienna’s State Opera House (Wiener Staatsoper). For those keeping track, the opera was “Elektra”, by Richard Strauss. This was the kind of unique experience that you might not try on your own, but seems much easier when you’ve got company. I made it back to Vienna, albeit briefly, in 2014.

Street market on Rakoczi Blvd. in Budapest, Hungary (June 24, 1991)

Meeting other people on the road can really enhance a trip. We’ll never forget the personal connection we had many years later in Estonia! It takes more work if you’re not staying in hostels, but it’s worth the effort.

Vienna Calling

(Vienna, Austria and Kingston, Ontario, Canada)

My Vienna hotel was located just across the Schwedenplatz bridge from district 1.   It was an easy walk to get to the Stephansdom – the epicentre of Viennese tourism.   And the Stephansdom is just as big as I remember it as a young backpacker.

Revisiting my 1991 impressions, Vienna is still orderly and clean.  Perhaps not to the extreme extent I remembered, but the roads (just to pick a random example) were definitely much more orderly than what I had experienced further south.   In fact, I found Vienna much more orderly than Stuben, an Austrian ski resort I visited last year where there was more of an “outlaw culture”.

Near the Opera House, in Vienna, Austria
A quieter moment, one block away from the Kaertnerstrasse, (Vienna, Austria)

What struck me most about Vienna this time, however, is the obvious inspiration for many of the cities I had visited on this trip.  Being the centre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Vienna’s 19th century buildings are a lot like those found in the former Yugoslavia…just bigger.

Saturday Evening in downtown Vienna
Saturday evening in downtown Vienna

I also don’t remember seeing so many people on the streets in 1991.  Maybe I wasn’t there on a Saturday night last time, but it was almost too busy on the touristy Kaertnerstrasse; after checking out some of the required downtown sights, I decided to return to my hotel’s neighbourhood for dinner.  I wasn’t sure what exactly I wanted to eat, but in the back of my mind I was hoping to find a place that had a unilingual menu.

View from my table at Café Tachles, Karmeliterplatz, Vienna 2, Austria
View from my table at Café Tachles, Karmeliterplatz, Vienna 2, Austria

Back in District 2, I passed a “shabby chic” café that had lots of streetfront seating.  I don’t often eat outside in Canada, so I certainly wasn’t opposed to continuing the al fresco dining I had enjoyed so much on this trip.  I took a look at the (happily German only) menu and saw that this place specialized in perogies.  I hadn’t anticipated eating Polish food on my last night in Europe but I went with the flow and grabbed a table.  I had the “Pierogi Max” plate, gefüllt mit Steinpilzen und Kraut, as well as a Polish draft beer.  With a fresh salad lightening the meal, it was a perfect way to end my culinary adventures.

"Pierogi Max" at the Café Tachles (Vienna, Austria)
“Pierogi Max” at the Café Tachles (Vienna, Austria)

After dinner, I went back to the downtown to do some final exploration.  Foregoing the main streets (still clogged with tourists), I wandered the side streets and found a fascinating assortment of unique stores and restaurants.  I don’t know whether the “Gulasch Museum” is a good place to eat, but what a great name!

Window-shopping in Vienna, Austria
Window-shopping for sweets in Vienna, Austria

There was a great energy on those side streets of downtown Vienna – yes, it is a big city, but it is not totally anonymous and taken over by international brands.  There was clearly wealth too, but not so much that I felt out of place with a backpack.  Although I hadn’t planned to visit Vienna at all on this trip, I found myself wishing that I had allocated some more time to it.  I even found the German spoken here easier to understand than in other parts of the German-speaking world.   Finally, I also thought that a further stopover here at some point later this year would be a good idea.

Alas, I was now out of time.  And so, just 14 hours after arriving at my hotel in Vienna, I was en route to the airport for my flight home.   Looking  back on the trip, there is still quite a bit that I’d like to share.  Accordingly, you’ll see a couple of related posts over the next couple of weeks, as I enjoy some time back in Kingston and prepare for my next adventure at the end of May.

Trogir and…Vienna!

(Split, Croatia and Vienna, Austria)

For my last full day in the former Yugoslavia, I went on an independent day trip from Split to Trogir.  Trogir is a UNESCO World Heritage site (one of several that I have visited on this trip) located about 45 minutes away from downtown Split.  The photo above shows the market along the waterfront in Trogir.

Had I gone nowhere else on this trip, I would have been amazed by Trogir.  However, after recently seeing Kotor and some other ancient towns with narrow, maze-like streets, it didn’t impact me in quite the same way.  It’s beautiful but it probably would have a greater impact on those who aren’t visiting too many different destinations in this fascinating part of Europe.

Yachters taking my advice and visiting Trogir, Croatia
Yachters taking my advice and visiting Trogir, Croatia

I returned to Split and went on an inspiring post-dinner “passeggiata” on the waterfront.  The cover photo for the previous post was taken on that walk.  Once again, it was nice to see so many local residents enjoying the pleasant evening.

Evening at Narodni Trg (Split, Croatia)
Evening at Narodni Trg (Split, Croatia)

Just before checking out of my room in Split this morning, I visited “Croatia Records” in Split.  This is a record label and retail concern that seems to play a very important role in keeping Croatian-language pop music alive, together with something called the “Croatian Music Channel”.  I watched a few videos on it yesterday and rather enjoyed it.  Maybe it’s because there doesn’t seem to be a lot of anger:  the music is fun and harkens back to a more innocent age of pop music.

Anyway, I took a chance at Croatia Records.  I asked the clerk to recommend a compilation CD that would be similar to what I watched on the Croatian Music Channel.  He did so…but I have no idea if his recommendation is a good one.  I’ll find out when I get back home and have access to a CD player!

I wonder if they're on the CD?  A vocal group performs on the Riva (Split, Croatia)
I wonder if they’re on the CD? A vocal group performs on the Riva (Split, Croatia)

I flew from Split to Vienna today.  I don’t usually fly much within Europe but this was the best way to round out my itinerary without spending too much time (or money) on land transportation.  My only previous visit to Vienna was in 1991 when I was on my post-university backpacking trip.  That was half a lifetime ago!  I remember thinking then that Vienna was the cleanest and most orderly major European  city that I had visited.  23 years later, how does it compare?

Alas, you’ll have to wait for the next post to find out.  Vienna made a lot of impressions on me and I would like to devote an entire entry to it.  I’ll  post that as soon as I can upon my return to Canada tomorrow – stay tuned!

This mysterious exhibit at the City Museum in Split was not labeled in English, so I am not entirely sure what it is about...
This mysterious exhibit (click to enlarge) at the City Museum in Split (Croatia) was not labeled in English, so I am not entirely sure what it is about…